Hey guys I decided to do a write up because I know how much of pain it was searching other sites and getting called a noob, this write up is for those who are retrofitting HID's into their vehicles, this wiring diagram works for all H4 vehicles, which is pretty much all civic. I'm not sure of other hondas that have H4 setups. Most people who do wire their retrofitted HID's will find that when they switch to high beams the lights turn off, well this harness will not only keep the lights turned on when in high beams, it'll also protect the stock headlight wiring. This only works for BIXENON retrofitted cars, meaning that you have a projector with metal flaps that control the high and low beam coming from 1 bulb. like the one below


Here is the diagram drawn out, i've tried to make it as precise and accurate as possible.


to make it easier you can buy relay sockets, either 2 single or 1 dual 5 pin relay sockets, in my harness i used a dual relay socket and only had to modifiy the wires a bit to make it work. anothe reason for using relay sockets, is that it allows easy removal of relays in the case that one of them might go bad.


which can be purchased here :http://www.partsexpress.com/pe...0-078 or at a local electronics/stereo shop. Just in case you guys are wondering what this is called its a
Dual 5-pin automotive relay socket


Here is another alternative to the dual relay but you're going to need to 2 to make it work.

same with this one
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe...0-076 single 5-pin automotive relay socket.

also I would recommend using a inline fuse holder or a blade fuse holder somewhere near the battery in case of surge. In my case I'm using a blade fuse holder from radio shack.

http://www.radioshack.com/prod...-1234

The diodes are 1N4005 diodes which can be bought at radioshack. The diodes act as a 1 way current director, and this is the thing that makes the high beams and lows beams work, they also keep the current from surging back into the stock harness and messing up your stock headlight harness. Good luck hope my ghetto write up helps and happy wiring.

also to keep your wires organized and water proof I used heatshrink and wire loom both which i bought at ace hardware. I wouldnt recommend using the ones that radioshack sell because they're platic unlike the ones that they sell at hardware stores which are rubberlike and alot more durable in outdoor conditions..

 

wow, crazy.. good work domingo!!

 

this may be useful in the future. nice write-up

 

Good effort but you made that harness wrong. its right in some aspects. Those diodes are not properly placed. also you will need a 2200 uf Polarized Electrolytic. Dont forget the 440 Ohm resistor.

This is the correct diagram

 

i'm using two relays would there even be a need for a resistor, or even a capcitor? if you are talking about the delay time between the switching from lo to hi u'd be suprised how fast the relays and diodes work, besides I didnt want to put a capacitor in place because this method is a foolproof wire up, with a cap wired up the wrong way it can be dangerous. using two relays is a much more efficient way. I know that you can use a 555 timer, mofset switch and your method, but I think mine method is simpler and faster. Besides if I were to do a write up using your method, I would also have to explain that if coil resistance in relay is lower than 100ohms, then the capacitor might need to be increased. with either your 2200uF/25V cap or a larger 4700uF/25V cap. Then I might as well just go into testing the resistance of each wire. the diodes are properly placed, i also noticed that your write up is for a bosch bixenon solenoid, one that uses three wires 1 for positive, 1 for ground (pull), and 1 to hold ground (hold). My solenoid I got from a benz E55 which only has 2 wires a positive and a negative, its not wrong its just different. and yes it is a good effort.

 

well if u did it my way it prolly would work a little bit better cause the cap also helps to reduce the solenoid temperature by reducing current. cause once the flapper get its 12 volts and opens it really only takes 4.5v and a ground to keep it down til u turn off the high beams. Plus did you forget the fact that Not all HID bixenons are 2 wire. i know several people on here are running 3 wire solenoids and with ur diagram there solenoid could fry in 10 mins.

 

true there are also alot of people who DO have two wires coming from their solenoids. I'm not claiming to know everything about HID but before i posted my diagram, i confirmed with people from hidplanet.com, hidtech.com, and my electrical engineering roommate to make sure the diagram would work properly.

 

No hard feelings or anything just getting the facts out there. i did a write up on this a while ago but lost my pictures.

alot of people who do the HID retro's dont usually grab for a set of $400 TL projectors or Corvette Valeo Bixenons. Majority is BMW e46 and 7 series which have 3 wire solenoids.

 

none taken, better to criticize and correct and state the facts here then after the fact after all items have been bought, and sh*t dont work.

 

I just got some Bosch 3-wire solenoids and I've designed a MOSFET-based circuit to switch the pull solenoid off after 0.15 seconds. If anyone's interested, I'm thinking of building these and selling for $15-30 per set. Please see my website for details.

 

can you upload the pics again.

 

Can someone update the first post with pics or post up an diagram on how to make a bixenon relay harness, I can't keep ordering these chinese made relays and have them go out on me on the road. The diagram jdmfreestyles has up shows something different and I don't understand.

 

That would be the OP. Perhaps you might try a private message and see if he still frequents the board.