I always do my oil changes at a honda dealership but I just got a fuel purge plus I put some C-foam yesterday in my jdm b18b (I/H/E), need to know what's the best oil to put in there ??? Plus best intake cleander??

Thanks

 

Mobil 1 for me

 

are there different grades or types of mobile 1 ???

 

I'm not sure I understand what you are asking but if you mean what motor oil, I personally use mobil 1 fully synthetic ...

 

extra light olive

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by joek84 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">extra light olive</TD></TR></TABLE>

good for the heart.

i used to use full synthetic Mobil 1 10w30 on my high mileage (over 170k) LS motor. viscosity baby!!!

now i use 5w30 castrol motor oil (no synthetic) on my rebuilt Ls/Vtec.

 

Do a search of this forum using popular name brands of oil.

These threads pop ups at least once a week.

 

mobil 1 5w30 full syn.

 

My personal favorite is Amsoil full synthetic 0-30 (35,000mi intervul,yes, 35,000 miles) But i also live in florida where it doesn't get under 40 degrees more than once or twice a year.

If you want the best for your motor go for one of the top full synthetic brands and they would be Mobil 1, Amsoil, Castrol Synthetic, and Royal Purple. Considering you live in Rockland Ontario, i'd stay away from anything light (keep it over 5w30).

And some words of advice: stay away from Penzoil and Quakerstate bulk oils - they create TONS of buildup

 

valvoline maxlife full synthetic for cars with over 75,000 miles 5w-30 =P
It's expensive..... like $6 a quart but it feels better than castrol synthetic

 

On my past car i used castrol syn blend, now on my new ride its gonna be nothing but royal purple oil. as for the intake cleaner did you mean the filter cleaner? I that is what you meant than k&n filter recharge system is the way to go, easy directions.

 

"If you want the best for your motor go for one of the top full synthetic brands and they would be Mobil 1, Amsoil, Castrol Synthetic, and Royal Purple. Considering you live in Rockland Ontario, I'd stay away from anything light (keep it over 5w30)."

Um, don't you mean the opposite? 5W-30 is the recommended weight ... and should be almost ideal for most Canadian residents during most seasons.

"And some words of advice: stay away from Penzoil and Quaker State bulk oils - they create TONS of buildup."

That's not true ... or it hasn't been true for a couple decades. Several years ago Pennzoil switched to a highly-refined Group II+ base oil ... they call it "Purebase." This is as good as it gets (same as Chevron Supreme and possibly Havoline). Any mineral oil refined to a greater degree would be a Group III ... and actually considered. A year or two ago, most other companies including Valvoline and Castrol were still using the not-quite-as-good Group II base oils in their

The old myths often come from their use of "paraffinic" oils which many noobs take to mean paraffins (wax). Any oil meeting SF, SJ, SL or SM won't have free wax particles in it. Any of that stuff in the base feed stock gets broken down during hydroprocessing into lighter compounds. You'd never get the cold-flow characterics required with free wax particles swiming in the oil.

But the rumors continue to spread.

Bulk oil can be bad becasue the tanks can become contaminated with all sorts of crud ... but that can happen with any kind of oil in it.

And nearly all but Mobil 1, Amsoil, Schaeffer, Red Line, NEO and Motuol are "fake" synthetics ... mineral Group III oil which is good ... but not as good as true Group IV (PAO) & V (ester) "true" synthetics ... and the Group III stuff is way over-priced. A fair price for this stuff is $2.75-$3.25 retail ... so those jugs of 5W-40 Rotella T are a decent deal.

I have no idea why people think Royal Purple is so good. The kewl purple color that is gone an hour after the oil has been in the engine?

This bling-bling brand thins out very quickly. I've see a 10W-30 shear down to a 20 weight in a civic after only 1,500 miles.

Of course, that's where people claim more horsepower and fuel economy. Thinner oils mean less hydrodynamic drag ... but it might also mean more wear in certain applications.

 

I use Valvoline 10W-30 convential(but I am in break-in stage and getting ready to tune). I wouldnt use convential Castrol since it is not made by Castrol, but by various vendors. Castrol Synthetic is made by Castrol though.

From my experience AMSoil, Royal Purple, and Mobil 1 are damn good oils(#1's on my list)

 

Bror Jace... you know waaaaay too much about oil j/k thats pretty insane info man, howd you learn all that?

 

if you really want to know about oil, go here.
http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi
its the bob is the oil guy site. it rules for info.

 

mobil 1 is the way to go

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chiefsfan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you really want to know about oil, go here.
http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi
its the bob is the oil guy site. it rules for info. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yup the BITOG forums is the place to go for oil, additives, filters etc.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by the_23rd_letter &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Bror Jace... you know waaaaay too much about oil j/k thats pretty insane info man, howd you learn all that?</TD></TR></TABLE>

He's from the BITOG forums, I recognize his username from the site.

 

well then i guess ill just have to educate myself...

 

Yep, I'm a BITOGian.

Everyone can go there ... as long as you read more than you post and obey the forum rules.

 

I'm trying out Leading Edge. Heard some good stuff about it but who knows, I just bought some for the heck of it...

 

I know the recommended oils for hondas are 5w30 but i've herd that its better to go with a heavier weight in the colder weather. I live down here in Florida so i don't deal with that often. I've herd of mechanics putting heavier oils in american cars with 150,000+ miles and re-built v-8s.

I've herd from several mechanics that a motor that used penzoil and quakerstate in thier bulk oils had noticed the wax build up when tearing it apart. They say that the halvoline has a form of dextron (transmission fluid) and when they open the engine up the internal parts have a sort of seal on them that keeps them clean.

They also mentioned that with synthetics had like a platic coating on the internal parts and kept them from wear and strain on the motor.

But one particular mechanic told me he used to work out by the Penzoil and Quakerstate plans in Ohio, so unless they've changed it recently - he knows.

Im not saying he knows everything, hes just a trusted mechanic.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by joek84 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">extra light olive</TD></TR></TABLE>

I personally prefer 'Safeway' rich olive oil....

Mobile 1 is awesome but expensive....Castrol 5W30 syn...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GDR888 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Mobil 1 for me</TD></TR></TABLE>


^

 

My engine has 150K+. I used mobil one fully syn before for about 3 oil changes but found my self switching back to valvoline max life syn.

 

I use Mobil1 Full syn extended performance [supposedly 15000 miles] its about 6 bucks a quart but I get it cheaper which is the only reason I use it. 5w30 weight.