Hey all,
Well im very frustrated and pissed, after working in 90 degree weather, and a bunch of stripped bolts. I was changing front rotors and pads on my brothers 93 teggy(not a gsr, ABS).
Well i was done and started it up for a test drive, and to my curse, the pedal pressure didnt build up. Also, i noticed a large amount of brake fluid on the ground under the master cylinder, but the resevoir was full.
Im really frustrated and dont feel like or have energy to bleed the brakes right now. Could anyone for the love of god give me some guidance. It will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance in guys.

 

You shouldn't need to bleed the brakes when you install rotors and pads, although it is recommended. If the pads and rotors were really thin, you may have forced a significant amount of brake fluid back into the master cylinder when you compressed the calipers. It may have simply overflowed. Did you pump the brakes before moving the car?

 

Anytime you undo the brake lines, you gotta bleed the brakes... Its easy with 2 people that can commuicate well.

You will need
brake fluid
buddy
10mm openend wrench
A container to bleed the fluid into.
do them in this order: RR, LF, LR, RF

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by D-CeReaL#4 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Anytime you undo the brake lines, you gotta bleed the brakes... Its easy with 2 people that can commuicate well.

You will need
brake fluid
buddy
10mm openend wrench
A container to bleed the fluid into.
do them in this order: RR, LF, LR, RF</TD></TR></TABLE>

Why would you undo the brake lines when changing pads and rotors?

 

Yes i pumped the brakes numerous times before moving the car, also i did top of the brake fluid before starting the job(it was low). And to the guy mentioning removing brake lines....Why would have i removed the brake lines for a routine brake job? I mean i did alot of jobs before and never bleed the brakes after.

Edit: Acutally the pads and rotors weren't that worn, and i pushed the piston back a normal distance(actually less than usual. Im lost.

 

Is the pedal the correct height but lacking the normal firmness? If the car actually can stop, you may need to bed the pads and rotors. Check out this site:

http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/bedinstock.htm

 

Yes the pedal is normal height, but it is lacking firmness(fairly easily pushed to the floor)....The car can stop and has braking power i would say less than 50% of normal braking power, but that is only a guess...Ill check out that site, thank you

 

Just do that in a safe place in case there is something else wrong. Good luck.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by erikgsr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yes the pedal is normal height, but it is lacking firmness(fairly easily pushed to the floor)....The car can stop and has braking power i would say less than 50% of normal braking power, but that is only a guess...Ill check out that site, thank you</TD></TR></TABLE>

i would say master cylinder problem. there like 60$ at autozone and pep boys with an exchange

 

you may have found an air bubble in the line. I don't know why, but there is always a possibility if your resevoir was low to start with.
run through the steps to diagnose:
bleed the brakes.
no fix?
check around the master cyclinder(under dash) and look for wetness.If wet master cylinder rebuild or replacement needed.
not wet?
look around brakes for wetness, maybe a zirc fitting came lose.

 

Yeah, thats what route ill probably go...thx

 

Well I just got around to bleeding the brakes, and it did not help. Same spongy pedal with very weak stopping power. Im starting to think its the master cylinder, anyway to check it, or diagnose?

 

Or very well could just be really old brake lines expanding. This will cause your pedal to travel further to the ground, especially when it's hot out.

 

OK, you filled your resevoir BEFORE you began the pad change. Well, when you pushed the piston back in the caliper to fit the thicker pads, the fluid was forced back to the MC, and thats why it overfilled. Now you need to make sure you use soap and water to clean all the fluid off of all of the painted surfaces or it will eat right thru them.

If you are by yourself, go ahead and gravity bleed your lines, simply placing a cup under your release screws and let it drip into the cup while keeping the MC full. Different year tegs have a different order of bleeding, so search up on your year. Good luck.

 

gravity bleed....as in just wait for the air bubbles to travel up? does that actually work? won't that take all day? and if any of the lines curve up and down, it won't work, right? because the bubble will just stay in the high part of the line...

 

Gravity bleeding is a slower method, but it is very affective.

Erikgsr,

If you just put your foot on the brake pedal, without much pressure, will it slowy make its way all the way to the floor?

 

When I gravity bled my brakes, it took 10 minutes for the right rear, 8 min for the left rear, 6 for the right front, and 4 for the left front, less than 30 min total.

I bled each line until the fluid turned from nasty to fresh, then I let it bleed for a couple more minutes. Worked fine for me. Never had to press the brake pedal.

I have had a solid brake pedal ever since.

 

They make bleeder valves that only take one person to bleed.

They have a little BB in the end so when you release the brake pedal, no air enters the system.

THey are pretty neat, you should check them out.

 

They're called "speed bleeders"

And yes, they work very well

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by D-CeReaL#4 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
do them in this order: RR, LF, LR, RF</TD></TR></TABLE>

thats the wrong order, it should be:

passenger rear
driver side rear
passenger front
driver side front

basically you want to bleed the lines furthest away from the MC first

 

The order of bleeding depends on the model year, and I wasn't giving order, but time alotted for each.

And for my 92 RS with no ABS, the Helms manual states this order:
Right Rear, Left Front, Left Rear, Right Front.

But I have seen that other models have a different bleeding order.


Modified by Sam92Teg at 5:36 AM 8/23/2005

 

Frustrating because no lines were opened and no air could have been admitted but something has changed. Check the slide pins (the pins that the caliper bolts to - they should slide freely). If they don't pull out of the rubber dust boot with finger force they will keep the caliper from adjusting to the new pad thickness-wasting mechanical motion. Pull the pins out of their boots,clean them and spray hole w/penetrating oil and dig the rusty crud out w/ round file and rag. Silicone grease is the reassembly lube.