what will i need to put a d16a1 into my 91 crx?

 

some custom mounts. Why don't you just got for the D16a6 or a D16z6 swap? It drops right in using your mounts.-Jon

 

A D16A1 isnt worth your time or effort to swap. Better off Doing an A6 or ZC swap. They drop right in, use your current tranny and no wiring needed if your an HF or SI

 

im gettin the a1 for free and im gonna rebuild it so i dont wanna spend the money on a zc just to tear it apart. i dont want a sohc ive had enough of them i wanna try a dohc. so if anyone has done this swap, please please help me lol

 

Good luck with the mounts. As the others have said, the A1 isn't going to bolt in without custom mounts. Maybe you could sell the A1 and get a DOHC ZC?

 

iight that sux. o well anyone know where i can get a cheap zc from???

 

sell your 2nd gen crx and get a first gen, then it will go in

 

Geezzz.... it ..DOES ..fit... it's just not as stupid simple as brainlessly undoing/doing bolts...no instant gratification scares the hell out of a lot of people..
A1 is not v much different perf than a ZC .. Claimed power differences are due to : a) Different Header (A1 item simply could not be worse a Civic uint is an improvement and a Z6 Header/downpipe is a significant improvement on both)
b) Ignitio timings for much better Japanese Gasoline
c) the 'extra' power is in JIS hp.. a much smaller measurement unit than SAE hp.

Buy Hey! everyone sez sy ZC's are the way to go.. Cuz they have Something to SELL> or someone told them :-)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bare &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Geezzz.... it ..DOES ..fit... it's just not as stupid simple as brainlessly undoing/doing bolts...no instant gratification scares the hell out of a lot of people..
A1 is not v much different perf than a ZC .. Claimed power differences are due to : a) Different Header (A1 item simply could not be worse a Civic uint is an improvement and a Z6 Header/downpipe is a significant improvement on both)
b) Ignitio timings for much better Japanese Gasoline
c) the 'extra' power is in JIS hp.. a much smaller measurement unit than SAE hp.

Buy Hey! everyone sez sy ZC's are the way to go.. Cuz they have Something to SELL&gt; or someone told them :-)
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Show me ONE, just ONE, 88-91 Civic/CRX that has a D16a1 motor in it. Everybody talks about putting these motors in, but I have yet to see somebody that did the swap.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bare &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Geezzz.... it ..DOES ..fit... it's just not as stupid simple as brainlessly undoing/doing bolts...no instant gratification scares the hell out of a lot of people..

...</TD></TR></TABLE>Yeah, a D16A1 isn't that much different from a ZC... except that ALL OF THE ENGINE AND TRANNY MOUNTS ARE DIFFERENT! You COULD fab your own, but this swap really is a royal PITA and I don't understand why anyone would bother when a D16Z6 or D16Y8 is a bolt in swap and makes more power? sheesh

 

Power in a ZC also comes from the head...The ZC head has way bigger ports (int & exh) to allow for higher flow over the A1 head and the cams are a better profile and not to mention the ZC intake manifold which is better than any other D series manifold...except for the y8..but have fun trying to get that to bolt up to a DOHC.....

 

who would want to swap a d16a1 or a zc for that matter?

at the most you'll get 130hp.... **** that.

sure some people boost em, and they could be made quick....


but this ****** is obviously a cheapo and wants to do a complecated swap and gain only 10HP.....


everyone knows the majority of EF owners are cheap DIY ******* .... so let him waste his time bolting the motor in.

when he gets it up and running, he'll get pissed and look for a ZC.... when thats slow , maybe he'll get off his *** and spend some money to get a better swap.

if you want a DOHC.... but a B20 CRV theyre like 300-500 bucks for the long block.

have a bunch of potential and torque right out of the box.

 

wo calm down buddy im a cheap ****** because i dont wanna spend 5-600 on a motor just to tear it apart cause im gonna rebuild it for boost???? i dont want to go b series and i dont wanna go sohc so i got my hands on a a1 for nothing basically not knowing that it wouldnt fit. so now i find a zc not a big deal. im not worried bout the 10hp gain im gettin because im boostin the damn thing anyways and this car is just my toy.....

 

still a cheap ******.

if you want real power, you would go B series anyway....


why dont you want to go B ? too lazy? or too cheap?

if youre too lazy, youre going to cut corners on your d16a1 build too and blow that POS up.

 

i have seen the a1 in a 88 crx. it will bolt up to the stock trans. not all of the bell housing bolts will line up. a mount needs to be made for the drivers side.

any engine can be built to make alot of power. my D16A1 made 403whp with a stock head intake and throttlebody.

here is a video of my a1 in action
http://www.we-todd-did-racing....DE%3D

 

Interesting Inhabitants here :-)
Back when a1;s were current King Motorsports was getting 195 hp out of their Road Race 1.6 a1.
Doesn't sound like a lot.. but that's REAL hp not Internet Buffoon Babble horsepower .. it takes a bit more skill/work/ $$$ to achieve.

 

Why use the D16a1 when there are better D series engines with less miles that bolt in, granted most are OBD1.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bare &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Back when a1;s were current King Motorsports was getting 195 hp out of their Road Race 1.6 a1. .</TD></TR></TABLE>

How long ago was that, and how much money and time do you have to throw towards it?

 

forget the a1 and just keep the p29 pistons from it and then get a d16a6 . High compression baby.

 

im cheap but i have a gsr in my 94 coupe????? i want to turbo a d series, because everyone has b-series, i even have one, just want to try and make some power out of a d. so that makes me a cheap ******.. ok thats kewl tho everyone has there own opinion. and i got the a1 for basically free, but now that i know its gonna be a waste of my time its not a big deal, ill prob just do a z6 swap my buddy has. no need to get your panties in a bunch buddy, just lookin for help.

 

i got a D16A1 Intake Manafold if u want it.

 

******* crybabies...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by STREETWERKZ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">still a cheap ******.

if you want real power, you would go B series anyway....


why dont you want to go B ? too lazy? or too cheap? </TD></TR></TABLE>dude, sftu with your "B is the only way to go BS" spend 3-500 on a b20, then 3-500 on a tranny, 300 on mounts, 300 on axles, more on shift linkage, then obd0-obd1 harness, then chipped ecu to control the damn thing, and then theres clutch and whatever else you will need. ill stick with my $500 a6 motor/tranny swap, and under $1000 turbo kit and be happier with it than the b20 and still have money in my pocket.

i dont get people's pushy opinions sometimes. B is not the only way to go

 

cuzz youre a cheap *** too.

good luck running 13s/14s your whole life with a d turbo.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by STREETWERKZ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">cuzz youre a cheap *** too.

good luck running 13s/14s your whole life with a d turbo. </TD></TR></TABLE>you're the most ignorant person ever. get off the B bandwagon and read around a bit, the D has plenty of potential

 

does yours have potential?

you seem ignorant.

your all mighty d16a6 will never be able to compete with a turbo B.


ive owned both, and still own both. B wins hands down.


im just saying what everyone else is afraid to say....


get of the D series nuts cheap ***.