Im doing an engine swap for one of my buddys. Hmotors says you gotta replace the timing belt, tension, water pump, ect. So I replaced them and now the timing belt will not tension. I have a factory service manual and did the steps 3 times. It got a little bit tighter but never got all the slack out. I mean its loose, the belt is all slapping around. The cams havent jump, yet. Do you have to do something with the tensioner?

 

loosen the tensioner bolt, turn the crank pully slightly till it tight, then tighten the tensioner bolt

 

Thats exactly what I did. I set the engine at No. 1 TDC, then I turned it over about 5 times, then I set it back at No. 1 TDC, then I loosened the tensioner bolt about 180 degrees, then I rotated the engine counter clockwise about 3 teeth mark on the cams, then retightened the tensioner bolt. Is there something im not doing right? Do you have to do anything else?

 

Make sure you have the right belt. Also, check to make sure the tensioner is still on the little nipple that it pivots around. I've seen them slip off and cause a headache as to why the belt won't tighten.

 

I know the tensioner is on right, but I will double check. It is so loose that on the exhaust side of the belt, it just flops all around while running.

 

push on the tensioner with your hand or a screwdriver. That is the only real way to get it tight enough.

 

I dont really understand what you mean. The tension is held on by 2 "studs" then by a spring and pushed in by a bolt. I checked it, I have the right timing belt, the tensioner is on all the way, spring and all. I tried tensioning it again today. Nope, didnt tension. Its just the exhaust side that just flops around while running. Its extremely loose. I need some more ideas!

Thanks

 

The spring on the tensioner my be worn, my buddys b16 did the same thing, we stuck a long screw driver behind the cover and pivioted the tensioner that way.

 

hopefully the tensioner bolt isn't stripped inside the block

 

Im actually having the exact same problem. Mines on a LS motor and i replaced everything as well. I have no idea what to do. Can someone please help us??? I need to get my car back on the road this weekend.

Edit: I just went out and tried the Screwdriver thing and It didn't work either. I tried to do it all by myself and it was a bitch. It might have gotten a little tighter but mines so loose that you can slide it on and off the cams. I stuck on what it can be.


Modified by IWANTAHB at 8:20 AM 8/11/2005

 

Is this a tensioner pulley that uses a spring to pull the belt tight, does the center of the pulley have an elongated hole so it can be moved tighter and looser, if so, I think you have the wrong part number pulley, check it out. If this is the type that you have I have heard of a guy grinding the hole longer to make it work and then he found out it was the wrong part number.

 

The bolt isnt stripped out. It gets tight and all. The motor still had an OEM honda belt on it so I dont think the timing belt has been changed before. I dont know why the spring should be streched. I know the timing belt wasent even this loose when we replaced it.

 

I had the same problem. Here's what i did TODAY. Take a long screw driver and put it under the little metal piece that is hooked to the spring. And push up. It will be hard so get your *** into it. Than have a friend tighten down the pulley and voila there ya go. If your still not clear on what im saying IM me. Good luck bro.

-Andru

 

Ill try it, here in a min and let you know. Thanks man

 

get the tensioner as tight as you can...then hold the belt (in front side of the motor) with your two fingers(thumb and index finger) then twist it. if it twists under 90 degrees then its good enough. if 90+ then its no good

 

I did, the belt slaps around in the timing cover.

 

Alright, this is what I found out. I have 3 other B series motors laying around in my garage. I checked all the tension on those. I went to my friends and its only like that one side. I can change which side has the most tension by turning the crank. If I say turn it clockwise for example it loosens the exhaust side. If I turn it counterclockwise the intake side loosens. So one side is totally loose depending on crank rotation and the other is tight like its supposed to be.

 

this might sound kinda dumb, but are you using your tensioner spring? cause thats kinda important to have

 

Haha, Yea its on there.

 

try loosening the bolt more than 180 degrees, i usually loosen the tensioner bolt a good 3 of 4 rachet pulls, hook the spring back on, then crank the motor 3 teeth then i torque the tensioner bolt to 40 ft/lbs

goodluck

 

Wait, does the spring become unlatched from the tensioner when the tensioner is loosened? I checked it last nite and it still looked like it was on there. I cant find out right now though, cause I cant get the crank pulley bolt off.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by j87w &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Wait, does the spring become unlatched from the tensioner when the tensioner is loosened? I checked it last nite and it still looked like it was on there. I cant find out right now though, cause I cant get the crank pulley bolt off. </TD></TR></TABLE>

what you shold be before before loosening the bolt is unhook the spring, but when you loose the spring you need to keep a clotheshanger on their so you dont loose controll ot the spring so you can put it back on later. im too drunk to understand wat im timing so ill check bac on this tmr morning

 

ok, let me explain again.

when you loosen the timing belt to take it off, you're supposed to unhook the spring NOT FROM THE TENSIONER, but from the block (or whatever its hooked to). you un hook it with a clothes hanger and keep the hook on there so you can put it back on after you tighten the belt. The tensioner spring is what tensions the timing belt when you crank it 3 teeth.

 

Why do you have to unhook it? Is it for tensioning purposes?

 

.