Toda B's vs JUN 3's... Another Dyno plot
Blue Line = JUN 3's
Red Line = Toda B's
B18c5
12:1 endyn rw
Stock intake arm with K&N
Mugen JDM header
Tanabe Exhaust
VAFC
just a comparison, nothing else, I have Toda B's
B*a*n*n*e*d
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From: Drinking Beer in sunny FL and jamming to Skid Row, USA
red line all the way, baby.
jason- who is on the anti-peak power/respect the midrange campaign
jason- who is on the anti-peak power/respect the midrange campaign
The JUN3 make power fo sho. But I gotta agree with DV on the midrange.
-Dave, who is sick of typing "both JUN and Toda cams can make power"...
B*a*n*n*e*d
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From: Drinking Beer in sunny FL and jamming to Skid Row, USA
The Toda Car is gonna be the faster car cuz it has the better powerband, better area under the curve
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The Toda Car is gonna be the faster car cuz it has the better powerband, better area under the curve
.....faster in what way?
The jun car can launch at a higher rpm since it's making less whp and tq lower in the powerband, and it will then get into vtec sooner and ultimately to redline sooner... Then after each shift, it will be in it's element - which is at peak for each shift after that.
The toda car will get wheelspin if it launches as high as the jun car, so it will accelerate a little slower, but then the midrange will have it pulling back on the jun car. 1-2 shift will see the toda car lose a little to the jun car... repeat for gears 3-5.....
This is a straight line, assuming equal drivers, cars, weight, etc...
Now on a road course or autox, there is a good argument that unless you are in the 2k rpms before the rev limiter, then the toda car will give you better results.
Now, what about a spec c car is my question... I believe the spec c's offer the best compromise of both worlds - good midrange AND good peak power.
Also, you guys left out the debate that the toda car seems to have been tuned for the midrange... You could tune for better peak on the b's and maybe take up some of the slack that is between the two plots in the higher rpms... But ultimately, the jun 3's will have better peak than spec b's - assuming equal time tuning and equal mods.
(imho)[Modified by Black R, 5:41 PM 2/21/2002]
Well, yes,
imho both have a right to exist... It depends on the driving you do..
For me, I would prefer Toda B, though I`ve bought JUN 2 now. According to Toda my valvesprings are too stiff for Toda B`s.
Quartermile is not in my interest, I don`t like races beeing over after a few seconds
On a road/ralley track it`s midrange that counts. There is nothing greater than pulling strong out of the turn.
But I really wonder which one of both cams make better topspeed..
topspeed races are very common where I live. I guess the JUN.
imho both have a right to exist... It depends on the driving you do..
For me, I would prefer Toda B, though I`ve bought JUN 2 now. According to Toda my valvesprings are too stiff for Toda B`s.
Quartermile is not in my interest, I don`t like races beeing over after a few seconds
On a road/ralley track it`s midrange that counts. There is nothing greater than pulling strong out of the turn.
But I really wonder which one of both cams make better topspeed..
topspeed races are very common where I live. I guess the JUN.
I prefer JUN 3. I always try to stay above 6k rpm as much as possible. Toda has a bit more mid range, but JUN just dominates the top end. I still like JUN for all racing use.
CB
CB
I have a question for you knowledgable Toda guys, I'm about to do the Toda B's.. I bought the B's a month ago and I'm having second thoughts. I was serioulsy thinking about the A's but I was like well if I'm going to do the work I might as well put the best cams I can in. I'm installing them at the end of this month. Now I'm going to be putting them in my GSR(mods listed below in signature) with the correct valvetrain components, electronic upgrades, and the only boost in compression is going to be a Spoon Sports Head Gasket(NO OTHER HEADWORK, ie. port, polish, shaving). So I maybe be able to get 10.4:1 Compression Ratio. I'd like to upgrade to higher compression pistons later on but the cams and components, electronic upgrades, and 90k mile maintenance is costing me $4000! (Breaking the bank) I wouldn't be able to save up for another year and half to build the bottom end. I'd love to get 185WHP and that would justify the upgrade. Current UNTUNED dyno chart(posted on my webpage) uncorrected was 154whp. Do you think I'm just setting myself up for a big dissapointment here?
The owner of this car never did any road race.. but he was consistently 2-3 tenths faster in the 1/4 mile with the JUN setup.
Here in Naples, we're stoplight confrontation/drag race *****.
Here in Naples, we're stoplight confrontation/drag race *****.
Here in Naples, we're stoplight confrontation/drag race *****.
FO sho dog knockin on the Riced out civic's
Dunno, but I love my JUN 3's and they do ptitty good at the lights... not that I do any street racing
I'd love to get 185WHP and that would justify the upgrade. Current UNTUNED dyno chart(posted on my webpage) uncorrected was 154whp. Do you think I'm just setting myself up for a big dissapointment here?
I got 188/130 out of 10.6:1 compression with spec B's. I think there's more in it, so I'd say 185 is realistic for you.
and 90k mile maintenance is costing me $4000! (Breaking the bank)
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From: Drinking Beer in sunny FL and jamming to Skid Row, USA
ok i have to ask. What the hell is in the 90k service that costs $4k?????????????
i4: what tracks are you talking about where you don't hit less than 7000rpm?




