Greddy turbo...300whp talk out the window!
Searched...yep
Google searched...yep
Big HP talk...nope
Ok I'm looking for around 275whp +/- on a daily driven R. There will be no tracking of any sort, dropping of the clutch, redline shifts or any abuse like that...maybe some playing around with some friends S4's/turbo M3's but nothing over 110mph.
Now with that said is it possible to piece together a Similar kit or is Greddy the only choice with a quick spool/nice tq.? I've seen their kits go for cheap used but I'm trying to get as many new parts as possible (money isn't too much of a concerned if piecing it) where can I find the best prices on this stuff? My main concern is managment and tuning, what would be the best for my app.? as I'll be doing NO internal mods but am wondering if a headgasket is needed for 10psi tops, reliablity is key!
Also are there any alternatives for running a quiet exhaust with stock appearence? I've love to run stock but I know thats quite restrictive for any turbo app. I'm coming from a german background so bare with me!
I'm sure I'm forgeting something but I know someone will chime in with smart remarks about it
.....do a search for Chris F and itr206's posts.
Both have made in the 300whp vicinity (among others) with a stock motor and turbo kit. Chris had greddy, and iirc Pete had drag 3.....
-hth
Both have made in the 300whp vicinity (among others) with a stock motor and turbo kit. Chris had greddy, and iirc Pete had drag 3.....
-hth
Yeah I saw Chris F's post..his motor is getting internal mods now but then again he tracks it so it deals with alot more stress than mine would.
http://www.boosted-hybrid.com
I'm also looking at the Greddy kit (albeit for Gs-R) - you probably won't hit too far beyond north of 250 (even using Hondata/good exhaust).
That being said, everyone says "piece a kit together!!!" - it's probably the best route, but you have to know exactly what you need.
I still like the Greddy kit
I'm also looking at the Greddy kit (albeit for Gs-R) - you probably won't hit too far beyond north of 250 (even using Hondata/good exhaust).
That being said, everyone says "piece a kit together!!!" - it's probably the best route, but you have to know exactly what you need.
I still like the Greddy kit
I love how people say they are gonna go turbo ,but not drive it fast, or beat on it or race it around.
lol. whats the point
I never ran a kit, I pieced all my set ups together. I made the power level you are looking for on 8psi with alot more room to grow.
Just a simple Log manifold from Maxrev, t3/04e turbo, Spearco IC, Drag piping, 550's and other related fuel mods and AWESOME Hondata tuning from my nukka Evans Tuning AKA Boosted - Hybrid
lol. whats the point
I never ran a kit, I pieced all my set ups together. I made the power level you are looking for on 8psi with alot more room to grow.
Just a simple Log manifold from Maxrev, t3/04e turbo, Spearco IC, Drag piping, 550's and other related fuel mods and AWESOME Hondata tuning from my nukka Evans Tuning AKA Boosted - Hybrid
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by itr206 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I love how people say they are gonna go turbo ,but not drive it fast, or beat on it or race it around.
lol. whats the point
I never ran a kit, I pieced all my set ups together. I made the power level you are looking for on 8psi with alot more room to grow.
Just a simple Log manifold from Maxrev, t3/04e turbo, Spearco IC, Drag piping, 550's and other related fuel mods and AWESOME Hondata tuning from my nukka Evans Tuning AKA Boosted - Hybrid
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I don't want to beat on it alot because it's my daily driver, I'm 22 and have had experience with german cars so I'm used to not beating on things but like to know there's power there when/if I need it and can't be going around racing everything I see (don't like unwanted attention). I'm also not a big fan of high HP on fwd, I don't like fwd wheel spin or lag so big turbo's aren't my bag.
thanks for the info though, keep it comin
lol. whats the point
I never ran a kit, I pieced all my set ups together. I made the power level you are looking for on 8psi with alot more room to grow.
Just a simple Log manifold from Maxrev, t3/04e turbo, Spearco IC, Drag piping, 550's and other related fuel mods and AWESOME Hondata tuning from my nukka Evans Tuning AKA Boosted - Hybrid
</TD></TR></TABLE>I don't want to beat on it alot because it's my daily driver, I'm 22 and have had experience with german cars so I'm used to not beating on things but like to know there's power there when/if I need it and can't be going around racing everything I see (don't like unwanted attention). I'm also not a big fan of high HP on fwd, I don't like fwd wheel spin or lag so big turbo's aren't my bag.
thanks for the info though, keep it comin
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Then just go with the GReddy kit. Don't get so caught up in a HP number, especially if you're not going to go WOT all that often.
It'll be way quicker than stock, and should spool up very quickly. I'd get a Hondata/Uberdata system and get it tuned by someone who knows what they are doing though.
It'll be way quicker than stock, and should spool up very quickly. I'd get a Hondata/Uberdata system and get it tuned by someone who knows what they are doing though.
i dont understand why people keep saying psi while its only related to hp, hows 250whp @12psi different from 250whp @8psi.. that being said i'd only run low to mid 200's on stock setup if you want it to last for a while.. you should also consider having several thousands in case of rebuild plus have a beater, this way you won't have as many worries if you can't fix the car right a way. what i don't like about greddy kit is much smaller turbine than compressor ratio so it can suffer on top end and itr can go to 9k on stock valvetrain and internal wastegate.. fuel managment i prefer hondata, 300 series sounds pretty good to start out with. neptune is another i would consider
PSI is how much your turbo is working, not the motor.
So relate PSI levels with turbo size, not with how much your motor can handle and how much you should run. That is relative to power levels and hand in hand with octane levels and compression levels.
So relate PSI levels with turbo size, not with how much your motor can handle and how much you should run. That is relative to power levels and hand in hand with octane levels and compression levels.
I'd rather run lower PSI if it matter or not thats just how I am. I knw what I'd need to piece together a kit and I'd do it right
intekragsr- Yeah Def. head bolts were planned
I've also given JR S/C'er a thought but I really would love the extra TQ. that tubro would provide. I'll look into some posts around here for more info on the stg 2 as I beleive the stg 3 would require internal mods to be safe.
intekragsr- Yeah Def. head bolts were planned
I've also given JR S/C'er a thought but I really would love the extra TQ. that tubro would provide. I'll look into some posts around here for more info on the stg 2 as I beleive the stg 3 would require internal mods to be safe.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tweakmeister »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">http://www.boosted-hybrid.com
I'm also looking at the Greddy kit (albeit for Gs-R) - you probably won't hit too far beyond north of 250 (even using Hondata/good exhaust).
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm also looking at the Greddy kit (albeit for Gs-R) - you probably won't hit too far beyond north of 250 (even using Hondata/good exhaust).
</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Brunettes »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Because I can..it's nothing new</TD></TR></TABLE> I have been there.. I have two dynos on boosted hybrid.. I made 235 whp at 5.5 lbs of boost and 270ish whp at 7.5... This was at 11.1 CR with a custom set up.
This was not a DD though.
This was not a DD though.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Misfit »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I have been there.. I have two dynos on boosted hybrid.. I made 235 whp at 5.5 lbs of boost and 270ish whp at 7.5... This was at 11.1 CR with a custom set up.
This was not a DD though.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
It was a very nice setup indeed, too bad you sold it
This was not a DD though.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
It was a very nice setup indeed, too bad you sold it
Even with it being a daily driver it'll rarely see boost during the week..if something happens I'll get the parts quickly while having another vehicle at my dispense. Unlike the M3 I won't have to wait awhile for parts and get charged out the ying yang for labor so it's not too much of a concern.
If it's THAT unreiable then I'll just look into a JR supercharger or leave it as is...STOCK.
If it's THAT unreiable then I'll just look into a JR supercharger or leave it as is...STOCK.
If you want good numbers and great spool save some dough and build a kit around a GT28rs with the .82 ar and t3 housing. Stay away from the internal gated ones since well...I just hate those damn wastegates.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by intekragsr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The headgasket is not the weak link in the motor. OEM honda headgasket is the best you can get. Its the head bolts that stretch.... Get some ARP'S</TD></TR></TABLE>
ive got ARP's....
im on my third headgasket.....
ive got ARP's....
im on my third headgasket.....
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Brunettes »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'd rather run lower PSI if it matter or not thats just how I am. I knw what I'd need to piece together a kit and I'd do it right
intekragsr- Yeah Def. head bolts were planned
I've also given JR S/C'er a thought but I really would love the extra TQ. that tubro would provide. I'll look into some posts around here for more info on the stg 2 as I beleive the stg 3 would require internal mods to be safe.</TD></TR></TABLE>
lol, the extra TQ from the turbo comes at a much higher RPM
my JRSC makes 140 wtq at 2500 rpms, 130 wtq at 2000 rpms
190 wtq at redline, 250 whp at 8 psi
a turbo at 8 psi could make more power, but the SC is definetely more linear and more usable
i also like not having a giant IC in my front bumper for everyone to stare at, and not have a BOV
if you open my hood, unless you knew what to look for, or really looked good, most people never even notice that the IM was replaced by a charger
they are both fun, i dont mind turbo or SC or NA for that matter, they all work well
One thing you need to realize is...anytime you add more HP to your engine, you are increasing the chance of blowing something up or increasing repairs
and as for not going into boost on a DD, are you fkn out of your mind???
who the hell never hits 3k during daily driving? you dont have to be at WOT to be boosting....
on the highway, you will pratically be in boost everytime you accelerate on a turbo
sounds to me like you should get some cams, cam gears, I/H/E, and lots of fuel/timing/engine management, maybe some valves and higher compression pistons
you can make about 220 whp - 230 or so
intekragsr- Yeah Def. head bolts were planned
I've also given JR S/C'er a thought but I really would love the extra TQ. that tubro would provide. I'll look into some posts around here for more info on the stg 2 as I beleive the stg 3 would require internal mods to be safe.</TD></TR></TABLE>
lol, the extra TQ from the turbo comes at a much higher RPM
my JRSC makes 140 wtq at 2500 rpms, 130 wtq at 2000 rpms
190 wtq at redline, 250 whp at 8 psi
a turbo at 8 psi could make more power, but the SC is definetely more linear and more usable
i also like not having a giant IC in my front bumper for everyone to stare at, and not have a BOV
if you open my hood, unless you knew what to look for, or really looked good, most people never even notice that the IM was replaced by a charger
they are both fun, i dont mind turbo or SC or NA for that matter, they all work well
One thing you need to realize is...anytime you add more HP to your engine, you are increasing the chance of blowing something up or increasing repairs
and as for not going into boost on a DD, are you fkn out of your mind???
who the hell never hits 3k during daily driving? you dont have to be at WOT to be boosting....
on the highway, you will pratically be in boost everytime you accelerate on a turbo
sounds to me like you should get some cams, cam gears, I/H/E, and lots of fuel/timing/engine management, maybe some valves and higher compression pistons
you can make about 220 whp - 230 or so
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Azcheron »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
lol, the extra TQ from the turbo comes at a much higher RPM
my JRSC makes 140 wtq at 2500 rpms, 130 wtq at 2000 rpms
190 wtq at redline, 250 whp at 8 psi
a turbo at 8 psi could make more power, but the SC is definetely more linear and more usable
i also like not having a giant IC in my front bumper for everyone to stare at, and not have a BOV
if you open my hood, unless you knew what to look for, or really looked good, most people never even notice that the IM was replaced by a charger
they are both fun, i dont mind turbo or SC or NA for that matter, they all work well
One thing you need to realize is...anytime you add more HP to your engine, you are increasing the chance of blowing something up or increasing repairs
and as for not going into boost on a DD, are you fkn out of your mind???
who the hell never hits 3k during daily driving? you dont have to be at WOT to be boosting....
on the highway, you will pratically be in boost everytime you accelerate on a turbo
sounds to me like you should get some cams, cam gears, I/H/E, and lots of fuel/timing/engine management, maybe some valves and higher compression pistons
you can make about 220 whp - 230 or so</TD></TR></TABLE>
.....I daily drive my turbo itr and honestly, it can blow off without even being in boost - once driving at atmosphere it is easily capable of blowing off.
Now as far as hitting boost daily - that simply isn't the case. It's very easy to drive around in vacuum all day without ever hitting even 1psi if you choose to do so.
In this manner, you get better mileage, and of course if you NEED to go faster - all you have to do is press the gas pedal.
+1 for turbo.
lol, the extra TQ from the turbo comes at a much higher RPM
my JRSC makes 140 wtq at 2500 rpms, 130 wtq at 2000 rpms
190 wtq at redline, 250 whp at 8 psi
a turbo at 8 psi could make more power, but the SC is definetely more linear and more usable
i also like not having a giant IC in my front bumper for everyone to stare at, and not have a BOV
if you open my hood, unless you knew what to look for, or really looked good, most people never even notice that the IM was replaced by a charger
they are both fun, i dont mind turbo or SC or NA for that matter, they all work well
One thing you need to realize is...anytime you add more HP to your engine, you are increasing the chance of blowing something up or increasing repairs
and as for not going into boost on a DD, are you fkn out of your mind???
who the hell never hits 3k during daily driving? you dont have to be at WOT to be boosting....
on the highway, you will pratically be in boost everytime you accelerate on a turbo
sounds to me like you should get some cams, cam gears, I/H/E, and lots of fuel/timing/engine management, maybe some valves and higher compression pistons
you can make about 220 whp - 230 or so</TD></TR></TABLE>
.....I daily drive my turbo itr and honestly, it can blow off without even being in boost - once driving at atmosphere it is easily capable of blowing off.
Now as far as hitting boost daily - that simply isn't the case. It's very easy to drive around in vacuum all day without ever hitting even 1psi if you choose to do so.
In this manner, you get better mileage, and of course if you NEED to go faster - all you have to do is press the gas pedal.
+1 for turbo.



