Yesterday i notice a noise coming from my engine bay which sounded like my timing belt was scrapping the valve cover when i reved around 2-3k. My car was runnin fine but i knew i was in for a new timing belt soon, and today it just gave out, i didnt hear any thing snap it just seem to stall out and wouldnt start back up.

I know it was my fault for driving it around even when i knew something was wrong, but i juss want to know how difficult will it be to replace, im not going to do this myself, i have a friend whos alot more experienced do most of the work.

Any tips or advice?...

 

How fast were you going? Timming belt snapping under strain can cause some serious damage. Get a new water pump while your at it. If your guy knows what he's doing, ~4 hour job.

 

The engine is probably wasted and you will need a valve job too, you said your friend had experience, if he didnt know this then find a new friend mechanic, see if he knows how to do a leakdown test on an engine with a broke timing belt. Timing belt needs lots more than just timing belt and water pump also.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Duane_in_Japan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The engine is probably wasted and you will need a valve job too, you said your friend had experience, if he didnt know this then find a new friend mechanic, see if he knows how to do a leakdown test on an engine with a broke timing belt. Timing belt needs lots more than just timing belt and water pump also.</TD></TR></TABLE>

the engine will not necessarily be wasted....if your timing snap while you drive....doesnt mean you have bent valves. Most of the time when people have bent valves are due to cranking the engine when the timing belt is broken....

 

OK, your right, it is very slightly possible that the valves did not bend but you will have to do a leak down test or just a plain ole leak test on an engine withiut a timing belt. Goog luck

 

The car just died at a red light, so i hope there isnt too much damage...im just kinda nervous because i wasnt the one driving at the time, my friend was nd she tried to start it back up a few times...i hope the valves are okay, nd how do you do a leak down test?

and thanks for all the help really appreciate it

 

If the starter was cranked with a broken timing belt, you can absolutely count on bent valves. Crankshaft/pistons turning over, with nothing to turn the camshafts. Sorry man, valves are toast.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If the starter was cranked with a broken timing belt, you can absolutely count on bent valves. Crankshaft/pistons turning over, with nothing to turn the camshafts. Sorry man, valves are toast. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Agreed, sorry to say man.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Duane_in_Japan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Timing belt needs lots more than just timing belt and water pump also.</TD></TR></TABLE>

It's just good practice to replace the water pump when you do your timming belt replacement. What's "lots more"?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If the starter was cranked with a broken timing belt, you can absolutely count on bent valves. Crankshaft/pistons turning over, with nothing to turn the camshafts. Sorry man, valves are toast. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Okay so lets say my valves are bent(most likely are ), will i have to replace the whole head? if so how much will i be spending on a slighly used 18b1 head?..is there any way to repair the valves? which would you guys recommend

 

LOts more is doing the job right the first time so you dont have to go in there again in six months cause the cam or crank oil seal started to leak, timing belts dont last long with oil on them. You should replace everything in there, idler pulley, tensioner pulley, hydraulic tensioner or tensioner spring any other oil seals if your motor has more, balence shaft or oil pump seals for example. When you pull the timing cover and there is a rubber gasket around the edge go ahead and R.T.V. it on the timing cover first thing so it has time to cure before reinstalling it other wise you will have a big R.T.V. mess if you wait till the end to glue it back on, I always put new ones on but that is me. Does your valve cover need to come off to pull the top timing cover, there is another gasket set of many parts???

Remove both valve covers, old timing belt off. You will need to set up each cylinder to T.D.C. with both valves closed, with the spark plugs out you can modify an old compression gage hose to perform a leakage test, remove the core from the hose, screw it into the spark plug hole and put your shop air hose on the Q.D. end and blow 100 pounds of shop air into the cylinder. Listen for a hissing from the air filter area (open the throttle plate fully) or a hissing from the exhaust pipe. Noise from one of these areas shows a bent valve, maybe even use smoke from a cigarette to detect a very small leak, but be in a non windy area.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Duane_in_Japan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">LOts more is doing the job right the first time so you dont have to go in there again in six months cause the cam or crank oil seal started to leak, timing belts dont last long with oil on them. You should replace everything in there, idler pulley, tensioner pulley, hydraulic tensioner or tensioner spring any other oil seals if your motor has more, balence shaft or oil pump seals for example. When you pull the timing cover and there is a rubber gasket around the edge go ahead and R.T.V. it on the timing cover first thing so it has time to cure before reinstalling it other wise you will have a big R.T.V. mess if you wait till the end to glue it back on, I always put new ones on but that is me. Does your valve cover need to come off to pull the top timing cover, there is another gasket set of many parts???

Remove both valve covers, old timing belt off. You will need to set up each cylinder to T.D.C. with both valves closed, with the spark plugs out you can modify an old compression gage hose to perform a leakage test, remove the core from the hose, screw it into the spark plug hole and put your shop air hose on the Q.D. end and blow 100 pounds of shop air into the cylinder. Listen for a hissing from the air filter area (open the throttle plate fully) or a hissing from the exhaust pipe. Noise from one of these areas shows a bent valve, maybe even use smoke from a cigarette to detect a very small leak, but be in a non windy area.</TD></TR></TABLE>

ummm what engine is that for? There is no idler pulley on Integra timing belts. Extra sealant for the timing belt cover is not necessary, the rubber gasket that's on it is sufficient (unless it's totally cracked and degraded). There's only one valve cover, and there are more then 2 valves per cylinder. That almost sounds to me like a pushrod engine

As for a leakdown test, I think all you do there is just observe the pressure guage and see if it drops, and how much in a certain period of time.

And also when pressurizing the cylinder with air, make sure the engine is secured to prevent it from rotating, because compressed can easily force a cylinder downwards and rotate the engine, especially if all the other spark plugs are pulled out.


Modified by PatrickGSR94 at 2:42 PM 8/11/2005

 

Many of my replies are pre written, I just have to copy and paste. This was for a honda V6 but guys like you are there to make corrections to my less than perfect replies to less than perfect descriptions of peoples problems that we have to fix without even seeing the engine. Just trying to help here.

One point to get across is there is still lots more than $50 bucks in parts to doing a really good timing belt job, why go in there two or three times, spend a few bucks and do it right and do it a a fair price, especially if you are going to D.I.Y.

I can get over $1000 for this job here in Tokyo. Why do you think I stayed here after the U.S.A.F.

 

Not everyone has a true leak down tester to watch the guage fall a little or a lot, what does a falling guage say anyways, nothing, it says that you have a minor leak or a major leak, you still have to find it all by yourself. Every cylinder has at least two valves on a four stroke engine, if the timing belt is already broke, hence the need for a leak test then you do not need to lock the crankshaft from turning, its not connected to the cam, the belt is broken. Turn the cam only to T.D.C., meaning both valves closed, B.D.C. cam position will leak, this is where cam overlap comes in, the valves are never both closed at the top of the exhaust stroke. More theory on that some other time though.