Im curious to know how many people are running skunk stage 2s on there stock compression GSR. How much power do u make and what 1/4 times are u pulling. I have a JDM GSR motor wit 10.6.1 and getting my head milled to bump compression to 10.8.1 and my head is gonna be fully built from the machine shop wit basically a whole skunk package but a different brand of springs and retainers. I know I will be over caming the motor at the moment but i had originally bought a CTR intake cam to get installed but when they ended up having to send the head to the machine shop to get redone they said it would be to a better advantage to get stronger cams now instead of paying more money later to swap them out. I am on a budget so i went ahead and bought the used skunks stage 2s for a good deal so now im just trying ot figure out what my car is going to be running and power its gonna be making. The last thing i plan on doin is getting the hondata for the dyno after its broken in.

 

?

 

Maybe 180whp. There are a lot of other factors. I would suggest installing the Hondata before you start the motor up and have a professional tune it right from the get-go.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ausmith &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Maybe 180whp. There are a lot of other factors. I would suggest installing the Hondata before you start the motor up and have a professional tune it right from the get-go.</TD></TR></TABLE>

why do u suggest that?, I wont be able to get the hondata for a couple weeks but I dont plan on tracking the car or driving it hard till I get it and tune it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BLK99VTECR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

why do u suggest that?, I wont be able to get the hondata for a couple weeks but I dont plan on tracking the car or driving it hard till I get it and tune it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The A/F is not going to be close using the stock ECU - why risk it.

 

i got a Vafc2 on the car already and a FPR so i dont know if that will be good enough. The shop thats working on the car has a in house dyno so i will ask them what they think cause ur the first person that i have ever heard say such a thing and i know many people who has driven there car home from the shop after the cam installs without any kind of tuning.

 

u prob want the car to be broken in to the tuned setup it will run better that way

 

Here's how I look at it... If the cam is going to make more power that means that it is going to require more fuel. It may be more efficient in some spots and less efficient in others - in other words the fuel curve is not going to be right.

If you want to do it right, from the beginning, put a wide band on the car and ensure that you are not running dangerously lean (even at part throttle). Perhaps you can make some intermediate changes with the VAFC and FPR, but the sooner you can get a pro to tune the car the better off you, and your motor, will be.

I would also suggest that you run a #7 heat range plug. If I'm not mistaken the US GSR is a #6 stock.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ausmith &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Here's how I look at it... If the cam is going to make more power that means that it is going to require more fuel. It may be more efficient in some spots and less efficient in others - in other words the fuel curve is not going to be right.

If you want to do it right, from the beginning, put a wide band on the car and ensure that you are not running dangerously lean (even at part throttle). Perhaps you can make some intermediate changes with the VAFC and FPR, but the sooner you can get a pro to tune the car the better off you, and your motor, will be.

I would also suggest that you run a #7 heat range plug. If I'm not mistaken the US GSR is a #6 stock.</TD></TR></TABLE>

whats about NGK Irideums?

 

did the price on hondata go up? on the S200

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BLK99VTECR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

whats about NGK Irideums?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Not a big fan of those, but they will work fine on your motor. My suggestion would be the V-Power Copper plugs. NGK BKR7E-11 stock number 1283

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BLK99VTECR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">did the price on hondata go up? on the S200</TD></TR></TABLE>

It's been $295 for over a year now. You might also think about the S300, which is beta right now, becuase it has a number of improvments over the S100/S200 systems. They will sell for $595.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ausmith &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It's been $295 for over a year now. You might also think about the S300, which is beta right now, becuase it has a number of improvments over the S100/S200 systems. They will sell for $595.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I thought I saw it for $270 at one point

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BLK99VTECR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I thought I saw it for $270 at one point</TD></TR></TABLE>

Perhaps - $295 is the list price.

 

I actually found it for $265 just now so i am good

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ausmith &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Perhaps - $295 is the list price.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

with the law not being an issue and performance the key in mind, would it be better to get a test pipe to replace my car sound high flow cat to my my exhaust free flowing from the header to the muffler?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BLK99VTECR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">with the law not being an issue and performance the key in mind, would it be better to get a test pipe to replace my car sound high flow cat to my my exhaust free flowing from the header to the muffler?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Technically, yes the test pipe will flow better.... but the improvment isn't going to dramatic. I would leave the cat - then you don't have a stinky car.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ausmith &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Technically, yes the test pipe will flow better.... but the improvment isn't going to dramatic. I would leave the cat - then you don't have a stinky car.</TD></TR></TABLE>

ok got you

 

i would never mix and match head parts stick with one brand

 

whats that in regards to?

 

I have a Jdm gsr motor In a 92 dx that weighs in at around 2000Lbs with si wheels
The head has skunk 2 valves springs and retainers along with stage 2 cams. It was dyno Tuned with a Vafc and a Kenji chipped P28 It made 183 Hp I belive "Rathead" On here has the Dyno Sheets still. It might be worth pming him to ask.

 

I got my car back from the shop yesterday. The throttle response and air flow seems be very quick and responsive but it seems like since its untuned my power band is going crazy.

 

picked up a AEM ITR CAI to add to the set up. Waiting on a spair GSR TB to arrive to be sent off to be bored to 64mm. Ordered a B16 tranny monday to replace my GSR tranny. Still havent got everything tuned but once i get the car back on the road with the B16 tranny I will finally get my hondata. Im hoping that with the addition of the b16 tranny now, I should be able to definately run mid 13s