motor is revving up and down
it just started doing this yesterday and its getting on my nerves. im thinking its the map sensor or mayb the tps sensor, i dunno? no CEL's yet so i need some help.
its start going 1k-2k now its 1k-2.5k. i need help thanks!
its start going 1k-2k now its 1k-2.5k. i need help thanks!
I have the same fraggin' problem... does someone know how to fix this?
I think it has something to do with the IACV... I dont fully understand it, but I'm sure someone will be able to explain it better... I hope!
I think it has something to do with the IACV... I dont fully understand it, but I'm sure someone will be able to explain it better... I hope!
High Idle speed and Fluctuation troubleshooting
Leaking EACV- Disconnect EACV connector. Idle speed should decrease. With the connector disconnected block the hole in the intake port or pinch the hose from the air cleaner to the EACV. If the idle speed decreases the valve is leaking. This condition will not set a code. The ECM can only detect an open or short circuit. It also may clog it’s screen if it has one.
Leaking IAC- (Idle air control valve) Disconnect IAC connector. Idle speed should decrease. With the connector disconnected, block the hole or pinch the hose to the IAC valve. If the idle speed decreases the valve is leaking. May not set a code and may not be a codeable circuit on all models.
TW or ECT sensor- (engine coolant temperature sensor) voltage should be about 3.0 volts @ 60 deg F and between .55 & .7 volts @ normal operating temp. If the voltage is above .8 volts at normal operating temp, will cause rich mixture and high idle speed. May not set a code because it is not far enough out of its operating parameters. **Also this sensor will not read temperature correctly if coolant is low. (beware)
Vacuum leaks- a loose vacuum hose or leaking intake manifold gasket can cause high idle speed and/or fluctuation. Also check for bad PCV valve.
Fast Idle Valve- (if equipped) a fast idle valve that is sticking can cause high idle speed and fluctuation. Check it by removing the steel cap on the top and putting your finger over the hole in the middle of the seat under the cap or block the port just inside of the throttle body opening, when the Idle is fluctuating or staying high. When the engine is warm this valve should be closed. You can tighten the seat but it will also change the idle speed warm up values (closing).
Throttle valve- throttle position sensor voltage should be .5 volts with the throttle closed. Make sure the throttle valve is fully closed and voltage is within spec.
ECU-If all else is good, if you reset the ECU and the problem goes away temporarily, the ECU may be defective.
The idle fluxes due to the fuel control programming built into the ECU, it notices that the engine is going too fast and that there is no VSS signal to the speedo, so the ECU cuts the fuel to the injectors to eliminate a higher than normal idle speed since the vehicle is not moving. Once the idle drops to a predetermined level the fuel injectors are turned back on and the vicious cycle starts all over again.
Leaking EACV- Disconnect EACV connector. Idle speed should decrease. With the connector disconnected block the hole in the intake port or pinch the hose from the air cleaner to the EACV. If the idle speed decreases the valve is leaking. This condition will not set a code. The ECM can only detect an open or short circuit. It also may clog it’s screen if it has one.
Leaking IAC- (Idle air control valve) Disconnect IAC connector. Idle speed should decrease. With the connector disconnected, block the hole or pinch the hose to the IAC valve. If the idle speed decreases the valve is leaking. May not set a code and may not be a codeable circuit on all models.
TW or ECT sensor- (engine coolant temperature sensor) voltage should be about 3.0 volts @ 60 deg F and between .55 & .7 volts @ normal operating temp. If the voltage is above .8 volts at normal operating temp, will cause rich mixture and high idle speed. May not set a code because it is not far enough out of its operating parameters. **Also this sensor will not read temperature correctly if coolant is low. (beware)
Vacuum leaks- a loose vacuum hose or leaking intake manifold gasket can cause high idle speed and/or fluctuation. Also check for bad PCV valve.
Fast Idle Valve- (if equipped) a fast idle valve that is sticking can cause high idle speed and fluctuation. Check it by removing the steel cap on the top and putting your finger over the hole in the middle of the seat under the cap or block the port just inside of the throttle body opening, when the Idle is fluctuating or staying high. When the engine is warm this valve should be closed. You can tighten the seat but it will also change the idle speed warm up values (closing).
Throttle valve- throttle position sensor voltage should be .5 volts with the throttle closed. Make sure the throttle valve is fully closed and voltage is within spec.
ECU-If all else is good, if you reset the ECU and the problem goes away temporarily, the ECU may be defective.
The idle fluxes due to the fuel control programming built into the ECU, it notices that the engine is going too fast and that there is no VSS signal to the speedo, so the ECU cuts the fuel to the injectors to eliminate a higher than normal idle speed since the vehicle is not moving. Once the idle drops to a predetermined level the fuel injectors are turned back on and the vicious cycle starts all over again.
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Its the thing bolted to the back top portion of your intake manifold with 2 coolant lines going through it. Take it off, spray the **** out of it with carb cleaner and your set to go. It tends to get clogged quite easily if you have dirty cooant or wat not.
you could also check to see if u have a vacum leak anywhere jus listen for a hissin sound in the engine that could be a possibility cuz i had the same prob n thats wha was causin mines..good luck
tHERE ARE TONS OF PICS all over this web site my friends, anyone who works on their car should have a manual for $15 at least. Sorry today is my take it out on the internet day, I will feel better tomorrow guys. Ole lady is just getting off the cotton pony!!!!!!!!!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Duane_in_Japan »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">tHERE ARE TONS OF PICS all over this web site my friends, anyone who works on their car should have a manual for $15 at least. Sorry today is my take it out on the internet day, I will feel better tomorrow guys. Ole lady is just getting off the cotton pony!!!!!!!!!</TD></TR></TABLE>
well I just moved from Ft. Carson/Colorado Springs, CO and all my stuff is in storage(to include my Helms and Chilton). Thats why I was hoping someone knew off hand a good site with pics or something. Congrats on Aunt Flo, I guess...
well I just moved from Ft. Carson/Colorado Springs, CO and all my stuff is in storage(to include my Helms and Chilton). Thats why I was hoping someone knew off hand a good site with pics or something. Congrats on Aunt Flo, I guess...
I finally fixed mine, too. It was the IACV. Here are some links (with pics!
) that I found the most helpful of all. The only thing I would do differently is check the IACV before the FITV since it seems like thats the more common problem and simpler fix.
Bad Idle Troubleshoot
http://217.160.249.230/forums/...42969
IACV Romoval/Cleaning
http://217.160.249.230/forums/...35534
Hope this helps!
) that I found the most helpful of all. The only thing I would do differently is check the IACV before the FITV since it seems like thats the more common problem and simpler fix.Bad Idle Troubleshoot
http://217.160.249.230/forums/...42969
IACV Romoval/Cleaning
http://217.160.249.230/forums/...35534
Hope this helps!
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