Ok, im still workin on this y8 swap. workin on it only a few hours a week isnt the best way to go.. exspesially when u keep running into problem.. now my problem is my fuel injectors arnt gettin any impulse so there fore not injecting any fuel. we put it on a meter, and there nto even gettin a signal, what coudl be wrong here.. what shoudl i do?

 

check your grounds, Start at the ones on the thermostat housing and go from there.

 

A Y8 swap into what? Is this a dpfi conversion or no? Need more info to give you any specific details.

When you say the injectors aren't getting any signal, that doesn't really make any sense. Are you simply verifying the 12v and saying it's not there, or are you turning the car over expecting to see spikes on the meter. Spikes in ms aren't even going to show on a meter.

Verify your 12v source at the injector plug (red/blk's that go to the resistor if were talking about 4th gen, yellow/blk if we're talkin 5th), then verify continuity of the signal wire to the ecu. At that point, you know the ecu has the necessary means to drive the injectors. Then verify resistance across the two poles of the injector and be sure they are within spec. (this should be fine though...one may go bad, but not all of them). As a side note, on alot of JDM motors I import, from the injectors sitting for a while they stick shut. Grab a spare injector plug and strip the two wires. Then take a AA (only) batter and tape each wire of the plug to the + and -. Then, without the metal clip on the injector plug, simply push it on the injector, it should click open and shut. If it doesn't, just tap the lower side of the injector against something, then retest. It'll open up after a while.

If all is well, then your problem lies in the distributor. The sensors internally allow the ecu to time the fuel injection. Like I said though, more info is needed on the swap, what car it's going in, and any wiring or component changes you've made.

Is it throwing any codes?

 

d16y8 into a 91 CRX Si, p28 ecu, obd1 injectors rywire wiring

 

Well, like I said, I'd be checking the resistor elimination wiring. Be sure all your red/blacks are combined into the one 12v source wire. Then check voltage when in the on position at each injector. From there do continuity from each injector signal wire all the way to the A ecu plug and be sure they are correct and there is continuity.

Eliminate the main relay as the problem also. If the fuel pump isn't coming on the car won't start. If you put the key in the on position and don't hear two distinct clicks 2 seconds apart with the engine correspondingly coming on then shutting off in sequence with the clicks, then you've got a problem. This is all too common in Honda's, especially if they have been sitting for a bit. If that process is too hard for you, just disconnect the line at the fuel filter then have some turn the key in the on position. Just stick the line in a bottle and be sure it's pumping.

The distributor plug rewire is pretty straightforward, so it's doubtful you screwed that up. You are using an OBD 1 dizzy correct? OBD2 and OBD1 will both work with the P28, but a pre obd dizzy won't. The pulse resolution of the internal sensors are different in the pre obd's and the P28 won't recognize and interpret the signal properly.

Another thing I have done to tell if the injectors are working is to get a spare injector and spray some WD40 right on the tip making a little pool. I then just plugged it up to an injector plug and have someone turn the car over. It's hard to see the needle move because it's so quick, but with the little puddle of WD40 it'll splash and you'll clearly see if it's working or not.

Are you using a premade OBD jumper, or did you make your own?

 

premade from Rywire, and a y9 dizzy with the adapter from Lo Cash Racing, whihc was made to work with jkobd conversion harnesses

 

okay make sure your still not running ur injector resistor box... and also check ur main relay.. when you turn the key to the 2nd position do you hear the fuel pump prime and do you hear the main relay click?

 

Hi, make sure you dont have a inj box like said before. If you do, please check the site, it tells you how to run obd1 injectors, or you can send the harness to us and have us do it for you for a small charge.

Basically you need to merge each red/blk wire with the 12volt yel/blk wire. This gives the injectors 12volts, not 5.5 that the inj box gives.

I personally dont remember modding any dizzy jumpers for locash ecu jumpers in the last month...
you can repin my jumper to match the locash ones very easy though.

And just so everyone knows I did not touch his engine harness, he only purchased a subharness from us, nothing to do with the injectors.

Ryan

 

no, u didnt mod it, i have ur obd1 conversion set up, and the obd 0- obd 1 dizzt addpater, and LoCash made me a obd1-obd2 dizzy adapter so i can runthe y8 dizzy, and they made there adapter to match your wiring. and i already connected all the red wires and yellow one from the green pin on the injector resitor box.
also, main realy works fine, and actuayl just put in a new fuel pump, cuz i thogut that was the problem, when turnign the igntion on u can hear it priming the motor,


Modified by crx2ner at 4:22 PM 8/9/2005

 

Ah, I see. Do a continuity check from the ecu to each injector. I dont think the jkobd ecu jumper is wrong, I have yet to see one come back wrong. Good luck man, and if you need any help, you can call me.
Ryan

 

hey ryan, could u possibly come up wiht a pin out or diagram of how that obd2-obd1 dizzy addpater shoudl be wired to work with ur kit? or do i just need to follow it color to color from the dizzy to teh harness?

 

Yes, go color to color, and the fat white wire needs to go to the yel/grn wire.

 

ok i rewired the adapter last night, but only wokred a lil, it starts and idles for about 30 seconds now, but we hooked a light up to the injector clip to see if it was gettin any signel and it got it when you start it then it stopped, so what could be causing this... and when we do get it to idle if u open or close the throttle body it just kills it

and when we rewired the adapter u said the fqat white one goes with yel/grn... well i have 2 whites ones and there the same size.

on the happyer not, that new header sounds pretty damn good

 

Yes, the fat white, or I also call it the "solo position white"

 

well there both the same size... solo postion? could it be the white one at the top in a row all by its self?

 

Yes

 

ok, thats the one i have hooked up, but why wont it get the power/impulses to the injectors? is there somethig on the ecu i shoudl check? im at a loss

 

anyone?