HI there

i will be runing a 9psi jackson racing set up on my B16 with a complete 2.5 inch exhaust system with this header. Everyone is using the Kamikaze header. But i will be using this header just wanted to know what you guys thing of this idea?
Thanks for all coments

 

get it jet hot sterling coated and it will look nice thats for sure... I never seen or heard about that header though. Its worth a shot

 

looks like an rmf header. it should work quite nicely

 

Hey guys

This is a costum made header with 2" runners and a 2.5" down pipe. This header works great for N/A tuning. A friend of mine put down 197hp with this header and CTR cams on a B16.
So i hope i will perform as good on my JRSC setup

 

doubt it's custom
looks identical to a street collector RMF designed AN-R header

 

yup, what ^he said. like i told you earlier

 

Well the guy from whom i bought it told me its costum...

 

so... i could tell you that an ssac mani was "custom" doesnt mean that it is

 

I'm guessing that header would suck some serious ***** on a JRSC setup. You want SHORT primaries, not primaries that are nine miles long.

Why do you think everyone sticks to Kami? They have extremely short primaries. A good second choice would be a DC (jdm) 4-1 which performs about the same as the Kami on JRSC setups.

Read the Endyn article on supercharger headers. Larry's research confirms that the best header for a roots blower is a 4-1 design with SHORT PRIMARIES.

 

i'm using a jdm 4-1 header with 2.5" collector with my jrsc

 

yeah its too long

if you look at the kami header, which is widely considered the best jrsc header,
its basically just 4pipes that turn into 1 in the space of about a foot,
it's really basically a turbo manifold without the turbo.

 

Well now im confused so you guys thing that would work good with JRSC. but i payed like 400$ for it.. should i sell it? but i live in Europe and its like impssible to get good headers here. Europe sucks for Tuning.. Before i used to live in Manhattan.. that was a easy live ti get parts. Damn europe.. i will run the header and see what he can do. if it performce bad iw ill get another one.
Thanks for all the posts

 

than expail this to me ( i was reading the coment from endyn)
Why was the fist woner of this maifold making 195HP with only this header and ITR cams?? on a B16. N/A set up
Dont you guys thing on a N/A engine would need a quick flow of exhaust gasses out of the engine? that the idea behind or? the get the exhast gasses as quick as possible away from the engine so that we dont have any back pressure on exxhaust gasses.
Well this manifold dose the same thing.. i will run a 2.5inch pipe fom the header till the end of the exhaust system with a nice racing bike style end. with no resonator or cat or anything just piping..
I will give it a try and i have a feeling i will work good with JRSC.
But all comments are welcomed and im up for new coments and ideas.
So what do you thing?

 

Sorry, but it's kind of hard to understand your last two comments.

I believe (not sure though) that the theory behind headers with super long primaries is that the exhaust pulse won't have to merge at the collector while the exhaust valve is still open. Normally, the exhaust valve will still be open when the exhaust pulse enters the collector and has to merge which causes turbulence and slight backpressure while the cylinder is still on it's exhaust stroke. With the headers you have, the exhaust valve will be closed by the time the pulse has to merge.

That's just a guess though. I don't know why short primaries are better for superchargers. I just know what's tried and proven. Short primaries have ALWAYS made the best power with JR superchargers.

I would sell that header if I were you.

 

im selling it and will get a 4in1 header with the shortest primer runners. But thanks to all that helped me making up my mind.

 

You know, if you sand that sucker down and paint it, you might be able to sell it for more than you bought it for.

I've done that in the past. If you have a rusty header, soak it in phosphoric acid (neutralizes the rust) then hit it with the wire wheel. Top it off with a can of ceramic spray paint and it's good as new.