.,

 

I had the exact same thing happen to me years ago. I drive my car around for afew minutes and then it locks up. I mean to a point where the car had to be towed home.

The verdict, I had the wrong MC on the BB.

But, you didnt replace your MC instead just bled it. The only thing I can think of is that your MC is bad? I dont know how but I know your problem has to do with the MC not releasing.

Try bleeding the MC while its on the car.

 

Perhaps a stuck piston in the MC?

 

That was my guess as well, the only way it can be stuck if the the seals kinked or some air in the line.

The best way to get air out of the MC is to bleed mounted onto the BB.

 

<--- not an expert

Isn't there an adjustment to the BB that adjusts how much force/boost the vacuum is applying?

I've seen this problem posted before...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chris F &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've seen this problem posted before...</TD></TR></TABLE>

This should help..
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1234263

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Xian &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
My vote is for the pushrod adjuster. If you have it too "tight" it will constantly be applying line pressure to the brake system... I was forced to adjust it after switching MC's b/c my brake pedal was way higher than it needed to be which made it nearly impossible to heel-toe.

The method I used to adjust it was a real PITA but I'm not aware of any other way... basically, you lay on your back in the driver's footwell with an open ended wrench and turn the adjuster about 1/8th of a turn at a time until it's where it needs to be. Another option for you may be to try adjust the upper "stop" point of the brake pedal. If you can raise that point "up" then it may allow the MC to fully release?

Christian, who hates brake gremlins </TD></TR></TABLE>


... and other helpful posts, and a resolution. Could be the wrong M/C, could be the pushrod adjuster in the brake booster is out of position. Good luck.

I would suspetise that it is the M/C, that it isn't the right part
(Yes I said suspetise, first and last time)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chris F &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">(Yes I said suspetise, first and last time)</TD></TR></TABLE>

:gasp: You must be Marquis. Vive le Resistance!

 

Len never makes mistakes. Adjust the BB but I would rebleed the system before you do that. There is no reason why your BB is out of adjustment because you are switching MC's

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mythias &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

:gasp: You must be Marquis.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's spelled Marquess in our part of the world, you know.

 

I had the same problem. pushrod on the brake booster was too long. what i was forced to do was create and add spacers (washers) in between the firewall and brake booster. This increased the gap and totally fixed the problem.

use the thinnest washers u can get, that way u gradually increase the distance and test it out. too may will result in no brakes, as u could probably have guessed.

That exact thing happened to me when i replaced the brake booster on my civic.
I am glad i got rid of that cursed car.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by migs &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The verdict, I had the wrong MC on the BB.</TD></TR></TABLE>

exactly what the problem was on my hatch when i put an RS master cylinder on a GS-R booster.

if the MC doesn't sit right into place on the booster with a paper-thickness clearance between the rod and what it touches inside (there's a tool for this, might want to cunsult the MAC guy), then it is wrong. if you fit up the MC and have to push it on the BB, then the Compensating Port is blocked, and the MC can't bleed off pressure when brakes are let off. there's no adjusting it, it's just wrong

 

you can also test this yourself using puddy, iv never used a tool, but they do make them.

 

NM guys, a lot of you were right, the MC part #s dont match. I was sent 46100-ST7-L52 which looks to be the #s for the 2000-2001 ITRs (Only discrepency is the last digit which is 1 instead of 2 at acura247)

The part # listed for thw 1997 model year is 46100-SW5-A11 and I'll take some pictures for future reference but the main difference looks to be (Im dumb for not noticing this) but theres a long hollow shaft that comes out of the 97 MCs and the newer ones dont have that at all.

Thanks for all the imput so far though.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KOALA YUMMIES &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">NM guys, a lot of you were right, the MC part #s dont match. I was sent 46100-ST7-L52 which looks to be the #s for the 2000-2001 ITRs (Only discrepency is the last digit which is 1 instead of 2 at acura247)
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Our sus...picions were correct!

I had no idea 97 M/C was different than others. Now we know.



Glad you got it sorted out.

-Chris

 

Any resolution?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KOALA YUMMIES &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Trust me guys, its the right damnMaster Cylinder.... </TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KOALA YUMMIES &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">NM guys, a lot of you were right.....Thanks for all the imput so far though. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I love it when this happens. We swear up and down its the right part and low and behold its not....

It happens to the best of us!

 

Glad to hear you got it figured out. I can't count how many hours I spent dealing with brake problems on the R. Be glad you didn't have to deal with the mysterious "mushy pedal" that doesn't go away.

 

Anybody know what size that "star locknut" is?
10 mm, 12-point?
12 mm, 12-point?

Is the best advised way to get at it, a 12-point metric crow's foot? I have no idea what can fit in the tiny space under the dash to get it loose, and I don't want to use vise-grips and booger it all up.

 

Anybody know what size that "star locknut" is?
10 mm, 12-point?
12 mm, 12-point?

Is the best advised way to get at it, a 12-point metric crow's foot? I have no idea what can fit in the tiny space under the dash to get it loose, and I don't want to use vise-grips and booger it all up.

 

Thread from the D-E-A-D!!!

If it looks to be a specialty bolt, chances are that Snap On or some other tool truck makes a specialty tool for it. Or you can buy the tool directly from a Honda or Acura dealership.

 

I figured that... but the Helm's manual doesn't even specify a specific special part number or anything for a special tool.

I'm assuming everyone has used something along the lines of vice grips, but I was hoping for a more definitive answer like "a 12 mm 12-point crow's foot worked for me" or a modified 10 mm 12-point box end worked for me"...

I have a feeling it's vice grips for everyone who has done it. I'd like to remove the "star lock nut" and replace it with a more convential locking washer and nut, or a nylock nut to make it easier if I have to do this again.

Any input from those who actually have adjusted their brake booster push rod?

 

I figured that... but the Helm's manual doesn't even specify a specific special part number or anything for a special tool.

I'm assuming everyone has used something along the lines of vice grips, but I was hoping for a more definitive answer like "a 12 mm 12-point crow's foot worked for me" or a modified 10 mm 12-point box end worked for me"...

I have a feeling it's vice grips for everyone who has done it. I'd like to remove the "star lock nut" and replace it with a more convential locking washer and nut, or a nylock nut to make it easier if I have to do this again.

Any input from those who actually have adjusted their brake booster push rod?

 

There are special crows foot sockets for this however I'm not sure of the size of that locknut but when I was looking into this there are special sockets for it. Hopefully someone else can chime in as it was only mentioned here because of the wrong part application.

 

sorry I dont have any answers for you, but I was wondering if you have different username or you just dont come around G2IC anymore...? I remember a lot of the teg tips that you did.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nafreak &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sorry I dont have any answers for you, but I was wondering if you have different username or you just dont come around G2IC anymore...? I remember a lot of the teg tips that you did. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm not on G2IC a lot anymore unless I have a problem or need to do a little searching for a new project. I don't have a different username, I just hardly ever get on there... I just don't have the time anymore.

I guess I'm at the point where I just need a new car, and my GSR will just become a garage/project car.


Keep the advice coming for the proper tool to adjust the star locknut.