got my flywheel put in today... (review)
i've had this fidanza flywheel sitting in the garage for the last 2 months. i bought it on ebay for $200 shipped. i finally got around to putting it in this weekend. the aluminum flywheel not only looks awsome but it much lighter than stock. i weighed the fidanza in at 6.5 pounds, and the stock flywheel weighed 22.4 pounds, thats less than 1/3 of the weight! fitment was nice the overall install was smooth. drove it around and the engine revs up and down A LOT quicker than before, especially at higher revs
. that translates to the revs dropping quicker when racing, syncros not drinding during shift, and quicker shifts, all for about $200 and 5 hours of work, start to finish. i've done intake, header, exhaust, and springs/shocks, and the flywheel tops them all (well maybe not the springs/shocks). i would recomend this product to anyone
. sorry no pics
. that translates to the revs dropping quicker when racing, syncros not drinding during shift, and quicker shifts, all for about $200 and 5 hours of work, start to finish. i've done intake, header, exhaust, and springs/shocks, and the flywheel tops them all (well maybe not the springs/shocks). i would recomend this product to anyone
. sorry no pics
How much faster does it rev? It's obviously going to be very noticible, but does it make the gearing feel better? I'm really interested in doing this soon.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BB6racer »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i've had this fidanza flywheel sitting in the garage for the last 2 months. i bought it on ebay for $200 shipped. i finally got around to putting it in this weekend. the aluminum flywheel not only looks awsome but it much lighter than stock. i weighed the fidanza in at 6.5 pounds, and the stock flywheel weighed 22.4 pounds, thats less than 1/3 of the weight! fitment was nice the overall install was smooth. drove it around and the engine revs up and down A LOT quicker than before, especially at higher revs
. that translates to the revs dropping quicker when racing, syncros not drinding during shift, and quicker shifts, all for about $200 and 5 hours of work, start to finish. i've done intake, header, exhaust, and springs/shocks, and the flywheel tops them all (well maybe not the springs/shocks). i would recomend this product to anyone
. sorry no pics
</TD></TR></TABLE>
so you had grinding when shifting and this fixed it? (I somtimes do during aggressive driving shifting 2nd to 3rd)
. that translates to the revs dropping quicker when racing, syncros not drinding during shift, and quicker shifts, all for about $200 and 5 hours of work, start to finish. i've done intake, header, exhaust, and springs/shocks, and the flywheel tops them all (well maybe not the springs/shocks). i would recomend this product to anyone
. sorry no pics
</TD></TR></TABLE> so you had grinding when shifting and this fixed it? (I somtimes do during aggressive driving shifting 2nd to 3rd)
hmm....You got me wanting this fidanza flywheel. I was looking at some on Ebay....Since it revs quicker- does the power still get to the wheels?...sorry if that seems to be a 'idiotic' question, but i'm serious.
yeah the power should get to the wheels just the same, and actually u might see an improved hp # on the dyno. you hp at the flywheel would b the same, but to the wheels would b better because not as much power would b needed to spin the flywheel
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98silverlude »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">but i do have a question. how easy was the install?? would someone who's pretty good with mechanics be capable</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'd like to know this too.
I'd like to know this too.
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i've done clutch replacements before so it was pretty easy. the first time i ever removed the tranny it took me like 2 days, just cause i was nervous though. the engine revs like 2x as fast, especially at higher revs, no joke. the power didn't increase that much, but the revs climb so much quicker! and no my tranny didn't really grind, it just feels like smoother and quicker shifts. for the price, its one of the best parts i've ever bought. i love my fidanza!
damn man, i think i'd b too scared to try this one on my own...unless anyone knows of a real good write up. and i guess upgrading the clutch would b a pretty good idea at the same time.
I also have a fidanza flywheel and I love it, had it on for about 23k. Heres something to think about for the future though; my only complaint is that I started to get clutch chatter around 7k after the install. I also put in an exedy organic racing clutch. Now the chatter is pretty bad unless I 1) drive on the highway for about 10 minutes so it warms up, or 2) I rev it to around 2k rpm and dont slip it too much ie. start fairly quickly, or 3) if I hardly rev it at all and slip the clutch so the car starts out very slowly. If I do anything in between those two extremes the chatter shakes the entire car. Im not saying its the clutch, the flywheel, or the combination of both (because I know several ppl who have the setup with no problems at all), but its just something to keep your ears open for in the future. Best of luck.
Pete
Pete
i love my fidanza! the only downside i have encountered is that it is much easier to break the wheels loose when its wet/snowy/icy, which can catch you by suprise.
If you can change a clutch, you can install a flywheel.
If you can change a clutch, you can install a flywheel.
just remember, IIRC the threads for the flywheel bolts are reversed... or maybe I'm thinking of a totally different car I swapped one on... crap someone check me on this.
If you don't have an impact and such, you'll need two people. One to stick a large screwdriver (like a craftsman because the way the metal is diamond shaped) between the teeth and the block to keep the flywheel from spinning when you try to brake loose and also torque down the bolts since it does take a bit of effort.
Some people have said about those bolts comming loose with aluminum flywheels with the way they shrink and expand from heat/cold. I haven't had this issue, but I have heard recommendations about using thread lock to make sure this isn't an issue.
If you don't have an impact and such, you'll need two people. One to stick a large screwdriver (like a craftsman because the way the metal is diamond shaped) between the teeth and the block to keep the flywheel from spinning when you try to brake loose and also torque down the bolts since it does take a bit of effort.
Some people have said about those bolts comming loose with aluminum flywheels with the way they shrink and expand from heat/cold. I haven't had this issue, but I have heard recommendations about using thread lock to make sure this isn't an issue.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98silverlude »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah the power should get to the wheels just the same, and actually u might see an improved hp # on the dyno. you hp at the flywheel would b the same, but to the wheels would b better because not as much power would b needed to spin the flywheel</TD></TR></TABLE>
no power doesnt go to the wheels the same, thats the whole point of a lighter flywheel. roughly every pound off the flywheel translates to 2 hp to the wheels.
no power doesnt go to the wheels the same, thats the whole point of a lighter flywheel. roughly every pound off the flywheel translates to 2 hp to the wheels.
i have the 8lb fidanza flywheel and act 6 puck springless clutch with heavy duty pressure plate and i love my setup, wouldnt change it for nothing...but of course it breaks loose everytime in 1st as soon as vtec hits, but thats because it revs sooo much faster. (on falken azenis)
scale may be off a little. the install really isn't that difficult, you just have to be very careful labeling everything, making sure everything is disconnected from the tranny when you lower it, and trying to get the tranny to align up with the clutch again. and remember the tranny is heavy, and in a wierd location, so be careful lowering it. i might do a write up if enough people need it...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BB6racer »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> i might do a write up if enough people need it...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Please do. It would be a great addition to the FAQ thread & links. Not sure if there one there yet or not.
Please do. It would be a great addition to the FAQ thread & links. Not sure if there one there yet or not.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BB6racer »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> i might do a write up if enough people need it...</TD></TR></TABLE>
will>might
will>might
I was always wanting to do a clutch and flywheel but never got around to it...and now reading this i want one....just the weight difference makes me want it.....Right now my 1st gear is already short i could only imagine what its like with a 6 pound....danm!!!!!!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98silverlude »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">damn man, i think i'd b too scared to try this one on my own...unless anyone knows of a real good write up. and i guess upgrading the clutch would b a pretty good idea at the same time. </TD></TR></TABLE>
There is a really good write up with pictures here....
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=907431
There is a really good write up with pictures here....
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=907431


