I have a 91 accord lx auto trans

sometimes my tach will wig out (e.g. move up and down the scale anywhere from 1000 RPM to 3000 RPM) usually higher then my actual rpm but sometimes lower, and mostly at WOT, below WOT and all the way down the pedal travel until about half way the tach acts fine for the most part but its starting to get worse at lower speeds.

i though this to just be a faulty tach gauge but then my accord started stalling at lights, the tach would jump to 0 and sit there like the car was stalled but i would floor the gas and after about 3 seconds the car would jump back up with a buck.

then it got worse some times it wouldnt start back up, i thought this was the fuel pump because i wouldnt hear the fuel pump prime up and the motor wouldnt turn over and when it did it would stall right back out. after playing with the key on off on off it would start back up but i would need to step on the gas to keep it from stalling then all would be fine.

but recently its been getting much worse. itll do it if im just traveling at about 20/30 in a residential area the tach will be sitting at 1000/1500 and just start jumping up to 2500 and then back down to 800 /1000 then just jump to zero and stall.

some times after a stall if i stalled in gear the check engine light would come on and the s light would blink and i woud be in limp mode until i shut the car off again and turned it back on.

vss was replaced still not solving the problem. 130$ from honda.

im running denso plugs & double silicone wires.

removed stock air box and in place of it have a cone filter attached to stock throttle body tubing.

megan racing headers 4-2-1, and a high flow cat.

always run 93 octane and always use lucas upper cylinder lube.

ive tried injector cleaner and super injector cleaner, seafoam ,octane booster, gas treatment etc. in different combinations with no results.

i need some insight on what to change, ive been told the igniter is linked directly to my tach so a faulty igniter could be causing this problem and to change the distributor not only because of my problem but because the distributor bearing is known to go bad in these cars.

ive also been told to check the fuel pump and fuel filter.

i really dont think its the fuel filter or fuel pump and i thought igniter problems werent intermittent meaning that if my igniter was bad i wouldnt get the car to start back up.

please give me some insight

Jay

 

it sounds like a typical ignitor problem i would just replace it and not the whole distr assembly ignit at dealer around 80-90 dollars ....and i would not use a non factory ignitor

 

it sounds like a typical ignitor problem i would just replace it and not the whole distr assembly ignit at dealer around 80-90 dollars ....and i would not use a non factory ignitor

when car does not start chk to see if it is fuel or spark related to be sure ,, if no spark i would go with ignitor

 

oooooooooops sorry hit the wrong key

 

the junk yard im going to doesnt break up the dizzy.

they will charge me the same price (45$) for the dizzy or the igniter

so i guess my next question is should i just replace the entire dizzy or just the igniter?

i was thinking the whole dizzy because the starting issue might be the coil in the dizzy as well correct?

also how hard is it to replace the igniter? i have a haynes manual and it always looks easier then it really is

i figured for the work that i would need to do the entire dizzy isnt many more screws/bolts away.

and i was thinking of getting one of those clear dizzy caps or a msd cap and coil. if i went msd i figured it would be good to have a fully working dizzy and not worry about bearings or anything like that.

thanks for your advice

Jay