a friend is picking up an untitle-able shell very soon..and is wanting to go play. we figure t4/sfwd/whatever will be the easiest class to really be competetive in...

what we know:
shell- 96 midiori hatch prepped to class rules
block-01 ITR block/sleevs/84mm/eagle rods/worked ITR crank
head-RLZ ported GSR head and valvetrain/possibly cams other than stock
management-Jdogg tuned AEM EMS/COP/CDI/blah blah blah
tranny-GSR/obx LSD
axles- not sure yet..but he'll deff upgrade to something

what we're not sure of
turbo
a/w or a/a intercooler
slicks 25 on 13 or 26 on 15

i know for slicks..it'll prob just take some time with either setup to decide..but we're low budget from hell, so picking on and sticking to it will be the easiest route.

I mean, he's not wanting to be running 1,2, or even 3 in the ranks...or even making all the races. mostly just a fun car to dick around in..and when Nopi or Battle is close..going out and running.

so, what's the basic T4'ish setup? similar? anything that we should know right off the bat (besides it'll cost a fuckton to compete)

any help...is appreciated!

 

Just FYI Rob in T4 and SFWD you have to have the car insured and registered with tags, IF the car cannot get a title then he couldn't by the rules run, BUT I am sure their are ways around that ya know.

 

haha, he has another EK.....it's got a tag

but i mean, he's NOT trying to be hardcore...just a local friend of mine that i've been building random hondas with for a long time now. we've done way too many swaps to not have anything to show for it...so, it's time we flex what we can do i guess

 

also, i believe a/w intercoolers are not allowed in sfwd/t4.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rhd &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> we figure t4/sfwd/whatever will be the easiest class to really be competetive in...

I mean, he's not wanting to be running 1,2, or even 3 in the ranks...or even making all the races. mostly just a fun car to dick around in..and when Nopi or Battle is close..going out and running.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
in a previous events, cars running 10.4-5s were qualifying 8-9th!! competition in T4 is strong!! good luck though, sounds like a nice start..




Modified by bruceleeroy at 5:20 AM 8/4/2005

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boostfed.com &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just FYI Rob in T4 and SFWD you have to have the car insured and registered with tags, IF the car cannot get a title then he couldn't by the rules run, BUT I am sure their are ways around that ya know. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Isnt' there like a check off list that they can do if your cars not registered and insured? like just making sure it's still pretty much a street car with workin lights, etc.. Because i think that whole registered/insured thing is really crap since different states have different regulations. (like cali where almost everything is illegal)

 

Keller qualified #1 in Memphis with a 9.65 @ 150, and went 9.74 @ 150, 9.86 @ 149, and then got eeked out by Ballard who ran a 9.82 @ 150 in the finals to Keller's 9.93 @ 149.

I'd ditch the Eagle rods for some Billet rods just because they're nice to have for reliability, and run a one-fab top mount mani, 4" downpipe, and a GT4088 turbo.

 

eagles are staying...i've seen them go 8's before..and i've seen them handle WELLLLL over 700whp...so they'll be plenty strong for the build.


i doubt he wants to spend $2500 on a turbo too...i was thinking PT67GTQ possibly...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by reaction360 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">also, i believe a/w intercoolers are not allowed in sfwd/t4. </TD></TR></TABLE>

didn't know that...guess the 24x12x4" ebay speacil will have to do....i've seen it take almost 800whp and still have good temps...so, it should work for the build .....maybe

 

you cant do a half assed setup to win or come close to winning. do it right with good party the first time

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rhd &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">eagles are staying...i've seen them go 8's before..and i've seen them handle WELLLLL over 700whp...so they'll be plenty strong for the build.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's great, doesn't mean I'd chance a thrown rod for a couple hudred extra bucks for a race car. Lets see. Eagle rods: 400. Pauter rods: 700. Rebuilding motor if you throw a rod and take out the sleeves, crank, pistons, and head: lots more than 300 bucks.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rhd &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i doubt he wants to spend $2500 on a turbo too...i was thinking PT67GTQ possibly...</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's great, but you can buy 4088's for cheaper than a 67-GTQ. It's not a ball bearing turbo.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vaporboy12 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you cant do a half assed setup to win or come close to winning. do it right with good party the first time </TD></TR></TABLE>


what's halfassed?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chip &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That's great, doesn't mean I'd chance a thrown rod for a couple hudred extra bucks for a race car. Lets see. Eagle rods: 400. Pauter rods: 700. Rebuilding motor if you throw a rod and take out the sleeves, crank, pistons, and head: lots more than 300 bucks.


That's great, but you can buy 4088's for cheaper than a 67-GTQ. It's not a ball bearing turbo.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i don't see it as taking a chance when we're just shooting for 600whp.

and where are you finding the 4088's for cheaper than $1300?

 

Sounds to me like you should run brackets and work your way up to t4 or sfwd, espically if you are only going to go to one or two events. Has your friend ever drag raced or did he just wake up one day and decide to build a t4/sfwd car?

Also don't forget all the saftey equipment you need to run in the class.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by underpressure02 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sounds to me like you should run brackets and work your way up to t4 or sfwd, espically if you are only going to go to one or two events. Has your friend ever drag raced or did he just wake up one day and decide to build a t4/sfwd car?

Also don't forget all the saftey equipment you need to run in the class. </TD></TR></TABLE>

he and i have both been drag racing for almost 10 years...sicne we could legally drive

brackets...well, they just plain SUCK. there's no fun in racing the clock...it's a lot more fun to race a person


and saftey equipment will be an 8 point cage, scatter sheild, 5 point harness, del sol seats with rear seat support plate thing

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rhd &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i don't see it as taking a chance when we're just shooting for 600whp.

and where are you finding the 4088's for cheaper than $1300?</TD></TR></TABLE>

gt4088 is a Non Ball Bearing turbo the BB version is a GT4088R Also I have the non BB on special now

 

what's the going rate terry?

and damned if the 4088R isn't a sexy *** turbo in person......that certain inline 6 with one on it is breath taking, haha

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rhd &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what's the going rate terry?

and damned if the 4088R isn't a sexy *** turbo in person......that certain inline 6 with one on it is breath taking, haha</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah I know!!! I had to replace mine!!!!! I got mine sitting here ready to mock up tomorrow!!! I got to get my specials list and I will give you a price sir.

 

love you terry

even though you tried to steal my WRX last time i saw you!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! haha

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rhd &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">love you terry

even though you tried to steal my WRX last time i saw you!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! haha</TD></TR></TABLE>

ROFLMAO!!!! Yeah I am such a ***** nowadays always skerd of the POPO so I took it easy on it!!!

 

About $20-$30K to be competitive.

John

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Zubaltec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">About $20-$30K to be competitive.

John</TD></TR></TABLE>

dont forget traveling expenses, replacing broken parts, etc...= lots more money

 

You are correct sir.

John

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Zubaltec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">About $20-$30K to be competitive.

John</TD></TR></TABLE>

like i said, he's not wanting to be top 5..he just wants to be competetive at the local BOTI and Nopi races.... I figure low 10's should make him semi competetive..at laeast qualifying at the local races.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rhd &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

like i said, he's not wanting to be top 5..he just wants to be competetive at the local BOTI and Nopi races.... I figure low 10's should make him semi competetive..at laeast qualifying at the local races.</TD></TR></TABLE>

then closer to $20 grand...give or take