okay I am not positive what it is called. There are two plugs on the vtec thing on the cylinder head. where the vtec solenoid is, I am talking about the other plug. I believe it deals with the oil pressure.

I am wondering if I need this hooked up for vtec to work correctly. I have the vtec solenoid hooked up but I can't tell if it is working correct.

Any input if I need it hooked up and if I do HOW do I with a pr4 vtec chipped using a relay to get vtec solenoid to work. Anybody?

-Shane

 

yes you do need it vtec is ran of oil pressure.

 

how is this regulated? Can I just run it parallel to the oil pressure sensor?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cleanhf &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yes you do need it vtec is ran of oil pressure.</TD></TR></TABLE> WRONG, JDM Solenoids don't come with the oil pressure switch and my chipped Crome ECU has it disabled for my D16Z6.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtecn8ive &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how is this regulated? Can I just run it parallel to the oil pressure sensor?</TD></TR></TABLE>


So you are saying I don't even need it or do I need to disable it somehow? This ecu I am running doesn't even use have anything programmed in it as is.

 

bump cause I need to know asap

 

bump still need to know.

 

What Shane should have mentioned is that it's a 1 wire obd0 vtec set up. So from my reseach this oil pressure sensor isn't used, it's just a fail safe for ecus that have the ability to control vtec.

Although that doesn't explain why we can't tell if the vtec is turning on or not, but I can verify that the vtec solenoid is getting power when it should be and that the solenoid does function. My only other thought was it either is turning on and we can't tell or it is something with the oil, but he says he did remove the oil jet from the block for the minime swap.

 

haha yup this is the cool cat that did my ecu. so he will know more about it then I would.

 

what ecu are you running, obd1 or obdo, jdm or usdm? the vtec oil pressure switch is what you are referring too next to the the vtec solenoid. you need proper oil pressure before the vtec solenoid will switch the oil flow to engage vtec. That way if you don't have proper oil pressure you can't engage vtec, it protects your motor. Kind of like the knock sensor retard timing if it senses knocking or detonation, the vtec oil pressure sensor makes sure you have proper oil pressure so it can engage the flow of oil to push out the vtec pistons inside the rocker arms and lock the vtec lobe in place.

 

1 wire obd0 vtec = pr4 obd0 ecu using the a/c clutch control switch as the trigger for the vtec. This could also be accomplished independantly of the ecu using a vtec controller or a cheap RPM switch.

 

PR4 is LS ecu , why would anyone go to all the trouble of doing this to make vtec kick in instead of using the oil pressure switch that I am sure Honda engineers did R & D on to make it work. if your motor will not go into vtec there is either a wiring issue or you are not getting the proper oil supply, don't force the motor to do something it dosen't want to or you'll end up with a big scrap of metal. get a pwo or pr3 ecu obdo and add the vtec wires to your existing harness, or buy a p28 or a po6 and chip it for DOHC fuel tables and add the vtec to the board

 

oh hush Jon. This is the Ecu you hooked me up with. I dont' have the money for a p28 or a conversion harness so I got this chipped instead!!

The ecu works just fine. I understand the oil pressure idea too. Oh well if I blow the motor I'll just get go with a b18a1 or something.

But back to the topic. IS IT NEEDED? How do vtec controllers work or rpm activators work without calculating the oil pressure?

 

that ecu is from the stone age I gave it to you because #1 you are a friend and #2 nobody would but it from me, sell some of those gobloads of parts you have and convert to obd1, obdo vtec ecu's are cheap as everybody now a days wants to go to obd1. check out g2ic.com and search the classifieds, just warning you about the vtec oil pressure switch because I would hate to see you blow a perfectly good motor.

 

another thing too if you activate vtec too early the motor will fall flat on it's face and your HP and torque will stink , and if you go too late you could rev so fast that you pass the rev limiter and get fuel cut, so much easier to wire it into your harness and use the vtec oil pressure switch

 

okay well I would love to sell all of my parts that are for sale but no one seems to want them locally.

Since obd1 is not an option and I don't mind running the risk of blowing this motor. Will it work without the oil pressure sensor working?

How do vtec controllers go around this then?

 

My understanding is that the sensor is only a safety thing, like rev limiters. On an ecu that doesn't support it this safety feature is not present so it shouldn't require it. It's only protecting you against problems like not having enough oil to slide over the pin which locks the valves together and run your engine at the same time.


The vtec controllers and rpm activators are just a simple switch saying "when we reach this rpm, turn it on", I'm thinking an easy way to test is to just hook the vtec wire to a 12v power supply and when you get above 4500rpm flip it and see what happens, don't forget to turn it off before you drop too low in the rpms.

 

vtec controllers are kind of a joke because half the time you can engage it early but it really will not help your powerband unless you have better cams and then, the only real way to see if it is better for your powerband is to get it on the dyno, most people chip their ecu so the signal is sent at a lower rpm or higher rpm but the vtec oil pressure sensor still looks for proper oil pressure, safety really is what it is

 

You totally missed the point. a vtec controller on a non-vtec ecu does serve a purpose, it turns the vtec on since the ecu can't. On a vtec ecu yes it is pointless, you need a dyno of a run with your vtec set high and one with it low and you enable it where the power bands cross.

 

you could also just chip the ecu for vtec instead of using a vtec controller, probably cheaper to do it that way, check out pgmfi.org

 

We did convert the ecu to vtec. now in order to activate the vtec we had to wire a seperate relay to make sure the correct voltage is delivered when it hits the correct rpms.

 

coolio, try it out just make sure you turn off vtec when you fall back down below activation range

 

thats what the relay is for.