i recently changed my brake pads and flushed my brake fluid and everything went well. but theres one problem. when i stop at a light my brake will be firm but about 15 secs later it will be touching the floor and my car will move forward since it is in D4. but if i let go of the brake and press it again it does the same thing. firm for a bit then hits the floor. is my master cylinder gone?

 

yes, or you have a hole in a brake line or brake fluid leaking somewhere, but yes, the seals on your master cylinder are probably gone. might i suggest rebuilding the one you have rather than getting a new whole master cylinder, because i got a new in box master cylinder and it didnt work for ****. i go a rebuild kit for my old one and it worked great. but i had to bleed my brakes 3 freakin times because i got a bad/wrong part that looked right. and the cost is about the same. go to napa for the rebuild kit.

 

If you really want to go one further, purchase a teg Master Cylinder, brake booster, and proportioning valve. That along with some new lines will significantly increase your braking power. All you would have to do is drain the system, pull and reinstall. Badabing! You have an upgraded brake setup on the cheap.

You can do this in just 2 or 3 hours

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VegasEFHB &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you really want to go one further, purchase a teg Master Cylinder, brake booster, and proportioning valve. That along with some new lines will significantly increase your braking power. All you would have to do is drain the system, pull and reinstall. Badabing! You have an upgraded brake setup on the cheap.

You can do this in just 2 or 3 hours</TD></TR></TABLE>

^ Very good suggestion, but if you don't want to do that and you want something straight bolt on get a 90-91 Civic EX DR MC it is 15/16 so it is larger than your current 13/16MC, and it will bolt directly on.

 

Good point, save a little cash, and still get the extra volume

 

I have the same problem...What year is your car?

 

gosh i have the same problem too..... anyone ever come across an article to replace the MC?

so which MC form which car is the best replacement since the crx one is gone anyway.

 

I used the 91 GS Teg MC and Booster in my 88 Hatch. It isn't a direct bolt on (I wrestled it in after about 20 minutes), but it can easily be modified.

If you read CRX Toad's post above, he reccomends an actual bolt on MC that would be a good replacement and upgrade at the same time.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sanimalp &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yes, or you have a hole in a brake line or brake fluid leaking somewhere, but yes, the seals on your master cylinder are probably gone. might i suggest rebuilding the one you have rather than getting a new whole master cylinder, because i got a new in box master cylinder and it didnt work for ****. i go a rebuild kit for my old one and it worked great. but i had to bleed my brakes 3 freakin times because i got a bad/wrong part that looked right. and the cost is about the same. go to napa for the rebuild kit.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Good Post.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VegasEFHB &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you really want to go one further, purchase a teg Master Cylinder, brake booster, and proportioning valve. That along with some new lines will significantly increase your braking power. All you would have to do is drain the system, pull and reinstall. Badabing! You have an upgraded brake setup on the cheap.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I would not suggest doing that. Unless if he plans on further upgrading his brakes with performance rotors/pads or with the 10.2'' rotors, I would suggest that he leaves the stock MC and BB.