So before winter ended I installed a ES poly bushing kit on everything except for the rear LCA's, but Im having trouble getting good access to the knuckle. As you can see this sheild like thingy is in the way and limits my access and direction with my seperator. Does anyone know how to get this off or what Im supposed to do??

I tried pullin all the brake componets off to free up space, couldnt get the dust cap thingy off to try and get the rotor off, so what next?

 

Bump for an honest man whos done his searches..........

......HELP HIM PEOPLE......

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NaptownKing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Bump for an honest man whos done his searches..........

......HELP HIM PEOPLE......</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

I wish I could help, but I've never removed a LCA, so bump.

 

There are two screws holding the rotor on(break them loose before you take the caliper off) then take off the caliper,caliper mounting bracket(two bolts) then the rotor should come off and give you access to get the dust shield off. Correct me if im wrong

 

the bolts holding the heatsheild are kind of behind the hub
and yea the rotor needs to be removed to get access
or you can just remove the caliper and unbolt the hub along with the rotor
once its out, you have full access to the bolts for the heatsheild

 

the rotor dust shield can't come off unless you seperate the hub. there are i believe 4 bolts on the backside to take off. you then need to pry and beat it off.

or, you can do it the way i did: just kind of bend the dust shield out of the way so you can get a large deep socket on there. i popped my lower balljoints on my '92 in about 10 minutes for both.

btw, if you do it my way, remember to bend the dust shield back or it will rub on the rotor.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by yOnKiNaToR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
or, you can do it the way i did: just kind of bend the dust shield out of the way so you can get a large deep socket on there. i popped my lower balljoints on my '92 in about 10 minutes for both.

btw, if you do it my way, remember to bend the dust shield back or it will rub on the rotor.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah that sounds easier, I couldnt get the rotor off when I tried, but maybe I missed a bolt or sumthin...

any other ideas helpful. Wont be able to give it a try till next week...

 

yea, the rotor isnt held on with that main nut, that holds the entire hub and what not. the rotor is held on to the hub with 2 screws. get those out first. then, you may have to "massage" the rotor off the hub. dont use a hammer as this could bend and or crack the rotor. The best method is to thread some spare bolts into the hat, and that will fry it off the hub. also, just FYI: the 2 screws do not need to be reinstalled once you put everything back together. those are there from the factory to keep the rotors from coming off on the assembly line and stuff. Trust me, the lugnuts do a plenty fine job of holding the rotor against the hub

Neil

 

YES! The bump worked.....thats my good deed for the day (yesterda i suppose).....

 

I'd think it might be easier to just remove the entire spindle assembly. There are four (4) 14mm nuts holding it on (accessable from the "backside" of the knuckle). Once those are removed, you can take off the entire spindle/hub assembly with the caliper bracket, rotor, and dust shield still attached. See the 5-lug swap thread in the FAQ for an exploded diagram.

I was able to remove the entire assembley in about 15 minutes when doing my 5 lug swap.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by onefastrx7turbo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> just FYI: the 2 screws do not need to be reinstalled once you put everything back together. those are there from the factory to keep the rotors from coming off on the assembly line and stuff. Trust me, the lugnuts do a plenty fine job of holding the rotor against the hub

Neil</TD></TR></TABLE>

While I agree that the rotor is going nowhere once the wheels is installed, I'm pretty sure they are not just an assembly line feature. The rotor screws help insure that the rotor is perfectly flush with the hub when installed. If you take the time to torque the lugs in the proper sequence, you should be fine without them. However, if you don't get everything evenly torqued, it is possible to get the rotor not perfectly flush on the hub.