sorry i don't have any before and after, but i had no time to look for my camera at the time. this is my first attempt at making something for my car, i sanded and polished the lips of the log mani and painted it with hi temp black paint. First of do you guys think i should grind out more of the inside of the turbo flange, do you think it maters? go ahead an throw me some criticism on my welding but followed with some tips, considering I've only taken one welding class about four years ago for a semester in high school and I recently bought a welder around 5 months ago.
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and the flange im talking about
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Definitely grind out the inside, the way it sits now will create tons of turbulence and back pressure

 

I wouldn't worry about turbulance since it's a log manifold, the turbulance can't be any worse. I would be more concern about stuffs breaking off and hitting the blades. People would have more helpful tips if they know what kinda of welder, gass, filler or technique are you using

 

im using a mig welder

 

what do you guys think of my welding? is it ok or am i doing something wrong

 

Looks like it might leak in a few spots. Could of been hotter

 

yeah look at the last pic, the T between cyl 2 and 3. looks like more penetration is needed. and yeah theres lots of splatter that i would be worried would come loose and hit the turbo.

 

110v MIG welder + schedule pipe != good penetration.

Looks good to me. Just keep a close eye out for cracks.

 

im getting started on grinding off the excess of the flange, but the only thing i can get in there is a file and an air die grinder, im using the die grinder with a sandpaper type of tool on it but it rips up in a matter of a minute, what type of grinding tool are you supposed to use?

 

A carbide burr. They rule.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by I4sillypwr Teh SuSpEtIsE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A carbide burr. They rule.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

Pics of carbide burrs for everyone who doesn't know that they are. Yes they do rock my freakin socks off.

 

Next time buy some anti spatter spray and you won't have to worry about that

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90blackcrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Next time buy some anti spatter spray and you won't have to worry about that</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah i was gonna run down to 711 to get some but i decided to go ahead and do it any ways

 

smart *** ;-)

 

Try doing a stitch instead of a continuous bead all the way around. It'll look a lot better.

 

whats that? sorry but i forgot most of the names for tipes of welding and welds

 

Stitching is typically used body-repair to keep from causing distortion is thin sheet metal, like body panels. Instead of running a continuous bead, they "stitch" it like sewing, so that you arent causing burnthrough or too much heat in one spot every thousandths of a second. Here's the easiest way to explain how to do it, but I'm sure others might have their own opinions on how to do it.

When you're watching the puddle, instead of dragging the wire (by looking at the arc) continuously untill the end of the bead, you are actually almost "dotting your i's" with the puddle, or previous stitch. You're welding something like this ......... instead of _________. When you hit the first stitch, use the MIG like you're starting your bead, but the second you see the puddle occur, let off the trigger and instantly hit right next to it, and repeat that untill you're done with the bead. That will allow the indivdual puddles to flow together but overlap each other for: more strength, less burnthrough and better appearance.

I personally prefer using the stitch method over anything else when I weld, because it lets yoru auto-darkening helmets fade out so you can see your welding line easier. When I weld a straight bead, I run into problems seeing my weld line unless I weld at an awkward angle.

Btw, You can hold each individual puddle a split second longer to allow for more penetration and a larger weld, if you're doing a thicker material for example.

 

Looks damn good to me. Especially considering you took one class 4 years ago and have only owned a welder for 5 months. Nice job!