why is it that it seems everyone uses blanks for brakes? i like the cross drilled and slotted... are those just for aesthetic purposes? im guessing blanks are better for stopping distance? TIA for clearing this up for me

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ill3galdr1v3r &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why is it that it seems everyone uses blanks for brakes? i like the cross drilled and slotted... are those just for aesthetic purposes? im guessing blanks are better for stopping distance? TIA for clearing this up for me</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yup they sure are, and blinker fluid adds 12 whp.

While your at it you need to get some cross drilled brake lines, an exhaust filter, some piston return springs, and an engine block oil bypass kit.

http://www.kalecoauto.com &lt;---- They will hook you up fat dawg. Like some pimp my ride ****. X to the Z bitch.

 

hahahaha

There are arguements for both types of rotors...all having to do with cooling. Cross drills and slots move and house the heated air but reduce surface area of where there is pad contact. It depends on your needs and how long you want in between pad changes.

 

Slotted rotors are not for cooling. They are to remove moisture and grab the pads.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM-97CX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Yup they sure are, and blinker fluid adds 12 whp.

While your at it you need to get some cross drilled brake lines, an exhaust filter, some piston return springs, and an engine block oil bypass kit.

http://www.kalecoauto.com &lt;---- They will hook you up fat dawg. Like some pimp my ride ****. X to the Z bitch.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i'll be the first to say your a ******* ****** with that smart *** answer. i hope you get scammed for everything you buy.


blanks give youa shorter stopping distance purely becase there is more metal on to brake pad. drilled and slotted help clean the pad everytime one of the vanes crosses the pad. i belive blanks dissapates heat better to because it still has more meal to absorb it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM-97CX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yup they sure are, and blinker fluid adds 12 whp.

While your at it you need to get some cross drilled brake lines, an exhaust filter, some piston return springs, and an engine block oil bypass kit.

http://www.kalecoauto.com &lt;---- They will hook you up fat dawg. Like some pimp my ride ****. X to the Z bitch.</TD></TR></TABLE>

ill buy all of that after i see it installed into YOUR car.. to the non-helpful post

thanks to everyone else

 

To the last two posters:

You have no ground to talk any **** after you just said that a blank rotor will give you a shorter stopping distance, I especially liked the part where you said that the cross drilling is to clean the pad. Cross drilling is to vent heat. Slotting is to grab the pad and to remove moisture.

Making a post telling some one that their post was pointless is the dumbest **** I have ever seen. If you want to be a hypocrite go some where else. And if you guys had read maybe one post down from that I actually said what the difference in the rotors was.

I don't know if you noticed but I have been here for quite some time and if you don't like the fact that I may want to joke around a little that is just too ******* bad because no one else seems to have a problem with it.

Here, take two of these and shoot yourself in the morning.....

 

ok everyone calm down and get back on topic. the way i see it is slotted rotors eat up the pads faster costing you more money. and were not talking about a huge 80something chevy its a light weight honda. but if you got money to blow then by all means go for it.

 

i dont really care how long youve been on here for one, and second the only reason you said what the differences were in the pads was to correct another HT'er. maybe if that second statement of yours was in your initial post it would have been ok.

anyway its done with. thanks for helping

 

well i dont know alot but

the slotted and drilled rotors were for older cars with more chemicals and fumes and what not in the pads it was to air them out.

i dont think any of the indy cars used slotted or drilled rotors
they used large blanks

because with the more surface area you have the better the stopping the more the pads have to grab

thers alot more too it like friction and how how the pads get and stuff like that but, honestly i think drilled slotted are pointless, i just put on some brembo blanks with axxis ultimate's, flushed my system out, and adjusted my drums. and i can feel a difference

 

with cross drilled you can def notice a reduction in brake fade at the track or auto x

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by all*motor*d16z6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">with cross drilled you can def notice a reduction in brake fade at the track or auto x</TD></TR></TABLE>

Don't know from experience, but to the best of my knowledge, I believe that they slotted/drilled rotors don't necessarily reduce stopping distance, but like ^^ he said, when you are braking hard for long periods of time, they do dissapate heat faster thus reducing brake fade.

-Shane

 

i don't know much but my ATV has drilled rotors on all 3 disk brakes and i would credit this to removing dirt and debris to ensure a better hold at every stop.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM-97CX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">http://www.kalecoauto.com &lt;---- They will hook you up fat dawg. Like some pimp my ride ****. X to the Z bitch.</TD></TR></TABLE>

haha, I like the radiator insulation bezel!

 

None of the rotors will perform any differently from the others.

Slotted and/or drilled rotors will crack quicker on the track than blanks.

This why Honda racer's use blanks.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM-97CX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I don't know if you noticed but I have been here for quite some time </TD></TR></TABLE>


oh...You're one of those. Insecure for one reason or another so your solution: Become a senior member of an online forum and that will be the thing you are most proud of.

Anyway, Mr. Seniority- In the 867 you've been a member, have you read the forum rules?

3.C. ...If you can't provide a link to a thread, or any useful information, then don't bother posting at all.

<U>General Guidelines:</U>
- Be somewhat polite. Try to respect all of your fellow members, and instead of flaming them try and answer their questions or at least point them in the right direction. If a user is causing trouble or not being polite, feel free to flame away (these topics will most likely be locked by the moderators).

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM-97CX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I don't know if you noticed but I have been here </TD></TR></TABLE>

No, you haven't.

Ignore JDM-97CX, he's a complete moron.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by z6 coupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i'll be the first to say your a ******* ****** with that smart *** answer. i hope you get scammed for everything you buy.


blanks give youa shorter stopping distance purely becase there is more metal on to brake pad. drilled and slotted help clean the pad everytime one of the vanes crosses the pad. i belive blanks dissapates heat better to because it still has more meal to absorb it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I agree, wtf is up with that answer, i mean we are all trying to work on our cars and what not and that is just pointless and pretty f'd up to say that stuff, nobody thinks your cool man, so chill out and help the guy out instead of looking up links, look up the info....

I had the same question and i come into here expecting an answer and i read that BS.....

They made the Hondatechmarketplace.....i cant wait til they start hatertech....this has to stop.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM-97CX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">To the last two posters:

You have no ground to talk any **** after you just said that a blank rotor will give you a shorter stopping distance, I especially liked the part where you said that the cross drilling is to clean the pad. Cross drilling is to vent heat. Slotting is to grab the pad and to remove moisture. </TD></TR></TABLE>

how does cross drilling clean pads?
how does slotting "grab the pad and remove moisture" and in the first place where the hell do you even get moisture?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM-97CX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Making a post telling some one that their post was pointless is the dumbest **** I have ever seen. If you want to be a hypocrite go some where else. And if you guys had read maybe one post down from that I actually said what the difference in the rotors was. </TD></TR></TABLE>

your first post is pretty dam pointless.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM-97CX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">And if you had read maybe one</TD></TR></TABLE>
PARAGRAPH <TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM-97CX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
down from that I actually said</TD></TR></TABLE>then you'd see my post wasent pointless


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM-97CX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I don't know if you noticed but I have been here for quite some time and if you don't like the fact that I may want to joke around a little that is just too ******* bad because no one else seems to have a problem with it. </TD></TR></TABLE>

nope didn't notice at all


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by all*motor*d16z6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">with cross drilled you can def notice a reduction in brake fade at the track or auto x</TD></TR></TABLE>

shouldn't blanks reduce it more because it can hold more heat in? like more metal to absorb heat, and from there it goes into the vanes and into the air.

edit: not the vanes, i ment the fins between the rotor surface.

 

shouldn't blanks reduce it more because it can hold more heat in? like more metal to absorb heat, and from there it goes into the vanes and into the air.

edit: not the vanes, i ment the fins between the rotor surface.

[/QUOTE]

I like the flaming (toward JDM-97CX), but blanks would hold more heat in, but that would cause warping and also cause fading. I guess that is my logical way of thinking about it. If anyone has anything else to say about it, then please do so. There is a reason why I decided not to become an engineer, besides the fact that the school that I was going to go to would have cost $100k+.

-Shane

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nighttrain33 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">blanks would hold more heat in, but that would cause warping and also cause fading. I guess that is my logical way of thinking about it. If anyone has anything else to say about it, then please do so. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Read my above post.

I'm speaking from my experience of track driving and the experience of fellow racers.

I do not speak of theory or street usage. Anyone who gives feedback on their brakes without having driven on a track has zero credibility.

 

are you talking about larger slotten/drilled?

because if you are comparing large blanks to large slotte/drilled then you are completely wrong

the blanks will out perform the slotten/drilled because there is more surface area.

slotted were used in older days.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nighttrain33 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">shouldn't blanks reduce it more because it can hold more heat in? like more metal to absorb heat, and from there it goes into the vanes and into the air.

edit: not the vanes, i ment the fins between the rotor surface.

I like the flaming (toward JDM-97CX), but blanks would hold more heat in, but that would cause warping and also cause fading. I guess that is my logical way of thinking about it. If anyone has anything else to say about it, then please do so. There is a reason why I decided not to become an engineer, besides the fact that the school that I was going to go to would have cost $100k+.

-Shane</TD></TR></TABLE>

Guys, just look at F1 cars. 200+ mph stops, glowing rotors... An incredible amount of brake fade would occur if those rotors weren't drilled and slotted.

If you analyze the designs, a slotted rotor would help dissipate heat faster as the heat accumulated/created by the pad would exit through the holes &gt; into the rotor &gt; out the sides of the rotor. That's why one of the first steps in brake rotor development was to make it vented.

In a cross-drilled rotor, the worn-off pad material in form of dust will exit through the path of the vents therefore reducing overheating and fade. Now this mated to durable/high grip/bigger pad will be your perfect setup.

Right off the bat, blanks will produce more heat because it has more contact surface in contact with the pad. Therefore the blank rotor will fade faster than the other kinds no matter what pad you mate it with.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eg4usdm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">are you talking about larger slotten/drilled?

because if you are comparing large blanks to large slotte/drilled then you are completely wrong

the blanks will out perform the slotten/drilled because there is more surface area.

slotted were used in older days. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Why is this directed toward me?

Do you even have any track experience or are you speaking from heresay?

I already stated my opinion:

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Reid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">None of the rotors will perform any differently from the others.

Slotted and/or drilled rotors will crack quicker on the track than blanks.

This why Honda racer's use blanks.</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fast88std &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Guys, just look at F1 cars. 200+ mph stops, glowing rotors... An incredible amount of brake fade would occur if those rotors weren't drilled and slotted.

If you analyze the designs, a slotted rotor would help dissipate heat faster as the heat accumulated/created by the pad would exit through the holes &gt; into the rotor &gt; out the sides of the rotor. That's why one of the first steps in brake rotor development was to make it vented.

In a cross-drilled rotor, the worn-off pad material in form of dust will exit through the path of the vents therefore reducing overheating and fade. Now this mated to durable/high grip/bigger pad will be your perfect setup.

Right off the bat, blanks will produce more heat because it has more contact surface in contact with the pad. Therefore the blank rotor will fade faster than the other kinds no matter what pad you mate it with. </TD></TR></TABLE>

We're not talking about F1 cars, we're talking about FWD econobox Hondas.

I already stated that blanks work the best, out of first hand experience. This can be verified by checking with others who race their cars on the track.

What track experience do YOU have to suggest that drilled/slotted perform better than blanks?

 

I'm using Brembo Drilled rotors, and I will tell you that I noticed ALOT more from the pads than the stupid rotors. I wish I had gone with blanks instead.