Hey just entered the NZHondas Dyno day today. Can you tell me what you think? Can someone also convert the KW reading to WHP and also the torque figure?



Large graph: http://xsdrft.orcon.net.nz/Lar...t.JPG

I also heard NZ tuners use a different SAE correction so it may seem lower than the US numbers.

Car has run a 15.5 @ 90mph with a 2.4 60ft time on shitty track conditions which is ****.

Mods:
JDM Gen 2 B16a - 10.7:1 compression
2 layer headgasket
Stock cams
Ported & polished head
Enlarged throttle body
Replica J's Racing whale *****
4-2-1 Fujisubo (FGK) header with shitty 2" outlet
2.25" mandrel bent exhaust with N1 muffler
Chipped with Crome but running stock B16a basemap

Running 98 octane fuel here which is the equivalent to 94 according to Doug from Hondata.

or

 

get that bitch on the dyno and smooth out that a/f!!!! tune, cams, tune, IM, tune, exhuast, TUNE TUNE TUNE!!!

 

Should i shoot for a 13.5 A/F ratio?

Where it says it is detonating at those low RPM it's still quite rich so i guess i have to pull timing back a little.

 

Bump

 

yeah u got a:f problems for sure. I would be shooting for around a low to mid 13 A:F ratio there. As far as the detonation, if you are rich there then u are gonna have to pull out a deg or two of timing and see if it goes away, i bet it will.

 

damnyour car is really runnin f'd up....and those are the shittiest b16 times ive ever seen my d16z6 ran 15.4 with i/h/e in a coupe

 

12.5:1 is the best a/f ratio under WOT for acceleration.

 

in terms of afr, give the motor what it wants (safely). everyone can throw out magic numbers which are fine to be safe when street tuning, but you may find that the magic number you selected may not exactly hold true when its time to dyno.

 

this isnt a "magic number". its a fact. for optimum acceleration 12.5 is the desired afr. if you dont believe me, do some research and learn for yourself. you can start at innovate motorsports' homepage.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dcb16 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">12.5:1 is the best a/f ratio under WOT for acceleration. </TD></TR></TABLE>
That's still a bit rich. If I was turbo then maybe. 13.1 to around 13.5 is what im going to aim for. Every car is different.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vg7z &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">damnyour car is really runnin f'd up....and those are the shittiest b16 times ive ever seen my d16z6 ran 15.4 with i/h/e in a coupe</TD></TR></TABLE>
If you read properly I said the track was ****. I don't care if it's the worse times you have seen.

 

"Most engines produce maximum power (with optimized ignition timing) at an air-fuel-ratio between 12 and 13. Let's assume the optimum is in the middle at 12.5"

-Klaus Allmendinger, VP of Engineering, Innovate Motorsports

check innovate motorsports if you dont believe me

still wanna argue?

secondly, air fuel ratio has nothing to do with turbo or NA. just because it is a turbo motor doesnt mean that you run 8:1 AFR. The afr has nothing to do with how much power your car makes (try not to misenterpret that statement) turbo'd or not.

 

ok, here is a better way of explaining.

the optimum afr is 14.7:1 (stoichiometric effeciency). so if you are in a turbo'd car why would that be any different than a NA car? the only difference between turbo and na is the cylinder is filled by boost (anything above 14.7 kpa) and NA cannot exceed 14.7 kpa (which is atmospheric pressure). But once the a/f is in the cylinder its all the same, blown or not.

 

105Kw = 140.8 whp

I dunno what your peak torque was.

Pirate

 

dcb16

I frequent the innovate page quite frequently, since i own an lm-1 and use it frequently to street tune my Mikuni sidedrafts. No one is taking anything away from the the accepted value of 12-13:1 AFR as being an agreed upon ratio in terms of optimum power in most cases. All im saying is, dont just tune for 12.5:1 and be done with it, but rather try different ratios between that range. It (the engine) might like 12:1 or it might even like 13.3:1.

FWIW always read up on the pages at pgmfi with many people tuning their idle afr's within the 14 range. In my own case, with my sidedraft carbs, my engine likes to idle the smoothest much much much richer than that (when using the lean best idle procedure on the pilot/idle screws), which seems to be the case with many other sidedraft carb owners I speak with. This is why I say give the motor what it wants, safely. Now..I understand tuning for idle and wot is a whole different ball game, but it simply exemplifies my reasoning for 'giving the engine what it wants'. You'll find many NA honda tuners who might lean the afr's out safely to about 13.3-13.5:1 IF*** this enables the engine to push out a tad more power, but there are others who find that sweet spot a tad richer.

This isnt meant to be a pissing match btw.




Modified by JaeOne3345 at 3:59 PM 8/1/2005

 

i couldnt agree more (about the pissing contest) and i commend you on your good input about different engines having different needs. sounds kinda like a girlfriend...

anyways, im glad you cleared up what i obviously forgot to put up in my post

 

Peak torque was 430nm at 7600rpm.

"The ideal mixture at full load (for a non boosted engine) is a matter of option but generally lambda 0.88-0.92 (air/fuel 13:1 - 13.5:1) produces the most power"

From the Hondata website.

 

430 nm is 317 footpounds but I assume that that is the total torque measured at the wheel not at the crank. I do not know your gearing but ~140whp at 7600 rpm ends up being pretty close to 97ft/lb peak torque.

Pirate

 

tianporn,
it's a bit low with the setup you're running
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tianporn &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Mods:
JDM Gen 2 B16a - 10.7:1 compression
2 layer headgasket
Stock cams
Ported & polished head
Enlarged throttle body
Replica J's Racing whale *****
4-2-1 Fujisubo (FGK) header with shitty 2" outlet
2.25" mandrel bent exhaust with N1 muffler
Chipped with Crome but running stock B16a basemap
</TD></TR></TABLE>

i have this setup:
JDM Gen 2 B16a
2 layer headgasket
Stock cams
stock head
stock throttle body
3" intake pipe
spoon knock off muffler 2.5"Ø
2.5"Ø SS pipe w 24" resonator
Chipped ecu with Spoon program
95 octane

and made 154.9 SAE hp and 100ft/lb on a dynojet




Modified by -=M=- at 4:07 PM 9/1/2005

 

oooops
here's my dyno sheet

 

Hmm, im not sure if the dyno's over here in NZ are calibrated the same as the ones in the US. Well im getting my car tuned on Crome soon so I'll definately pick up some HP because my AF ratio is shocking at the moment. Plumes of white smoke everywhere.

Here's a vid http://www.ikirst.com/gallery/...1.mpg

 

tianporn,

just got my car dynoed: again

have this setup:
JDM Gen 2 B16a
2 layer headgasket
Stock cams
stock head
stock throttle body
3" intake pipe
spoon knock off muffler 2.5"Ø
2.5"Ø SS pipe w 24" resonator
CROME tuned ecu
95 octane
SMSP copy header