do i still run the same gsr crank bearings or do i have to run the ls crank bearings when installing the ls crank into a gsr bottom end?

 

help please

 

you will need Ls main/rod bearings....and make sure you torqe down to Ls specs.

 

so all i need are the main rod bearings?and i think just bend the oil squirters a bit.right?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by aser1z &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so all i need are the main rod bearings?and i think just bend the oil squirters a bit.right?

</TD></TR></TABLE>

correct, i'm also in the process of building one myself

 

thanks.that hlps a lot.

 

ok guys i just ordered my piston rings for my jdm p30's and brand new clevite main/rod bearings.as i speak my ls rods are getting shot peened and and press fitted and my arp rod bolts are getting stretched. right now i'm hoaning the block and bending the oil squirters.

 

are u supposed too bend them or remove them.. i thought u r supposed too remove em?

 

you can do either

 

well you can remove them but would not recommend , its safer if oil is still getting into the cylinders quicker.

 

people keep on saying bend the oil squirts but if you notice the counter weights on cylinder 2 and 4 are bigger then the one on cylinder 1 and 3 therefore cylinder 1&3 are fine but 2&4 will cause a problem because the counter weights and the bottom of the piston will sandwich the oil squirts. Advice???

 

why are you spending all of this money to put an ls crank into a gsr block? please tell me it is for that extra couple ft lb's of tq. which isnt worth it considering you are hurting your rod stroke ratio (not by that much but it is still hurting) AND losing (reliable) rev capabilites... the ls rods only have 8mm rod bolts compared to the gsr's 9's. from all the money you spend on this you easily could have milled the head and gotten some better cams and even gotten some rod bolts for your gsr rods to rev a little more...

but if you have some reasoning and logic to this, please explain it to me

 

i have a ls crank in my gsr motor i make 202whp and alittle over 140 torque.
this motor has seen 9k revs for a pretty long period of time. i also do auto x with this motor and so far it runs like an oem built motor. it aready has well over 15k on the motor and still running strong.

 

ok....? that is an EXTREMELY vague statement, assuming it is true. "pretty long period of time", " a little over 140 torque". i hate to bust your bubble, but 15k isnt a long period of time.

 

please dont be mad cuz im hatin on your precious "jaydeem" in my profile

 

ok...i dont see what your last post have to do with anything with the topic at hand. but anyways....

my dyno



yea i have driven on the highway at high rpm for long periods of times. 5-8k for 30mins straight.

with my type r trans going on the highway im am well over 4k. I have driven the car like that for 2 hours stright to atlantic city and back. with no problems at all.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dcb16 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why are you spending all of this money to put an ls crank into a gsr block? please tell me it is for that extra couple ft lb's of tq. which isnt worth it considering you are hurting your rod stroke ratio (not by that much but it is still hurting) AND losing (reliable) rev capabilites... the ls rods only have 8mm rod bolts compared to the gsr's 9's. from all the money you spend on this you easily could have milled the head and gotten some better cams and even gotten some rod bolts for your gsr rods to rev a little more...

but if you have some reasoning and logic to this, please explain it to me</TD></TR></TABLE>A rod to stroke ratio really isnt that important in a street motor. And i dont think rev capability will be hurt that much by an increase in 2mm stroke. There is no point in revving your engine high if your not making the power that high. SO if he only has oem cams he wont be revving that high (if hes smart). And upgrading to some arp rodbolts isnt going to be that expensive either...

 

well i wanted to built this motor because i had spare parts all over the back.i had an ls block complete with pistons and gsr bottom end sitting in the back.i wanted to try something new so heres what i have and what i purchased.my set up is 1st gen b16 head with jun valve train and crower retainers ported and polished, 5 angle valve job,ctr cams,toda cam gears,mugen 2 piece head gasket,arp rod bolts,honda jdm p30 pistons,itr tranny with act drag clutch,hasport mount kit,skunk 2 intake manifold,itr t/b,toda headers,aem v2 intake.the only reason i thought it would be a good idea is baecause the motor will be making power up to 9 rpm and maybe even more because of the extra cc ill be getting from the strokes.this will be about a 1.9 motor and i want to see if it will be as fast as i think, if not i can just tear it apart, put the gsr crank and the rods back get my other arp rod bolts stretched and see how it feels.i dont think bending the squirtes is any hazard for the fact that we have done it before and nothing wrong has happened to the motor.if you guys have any other advice, shoot im listening im not contradicting anyones ideas or advice.

 

well thank you guys for your advise

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hayabusa160 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have a ls crank in my gsr motor i make 202whp and alittle over 140 torque.
this motor has seen 9k revs for a pretty long period of time. i also do auto x with this motor and so far it runs like an oem built motor. it aready has well over 15k on the motor and still running strong.</TD></TR></TABLE>

thats great your motor has lasted 15k, its well built. all im saying is revving your gsr/itr/ls block is not safe. a 1.54 (1.57 on gsr/itr) rod stroke ratio is not meant to rev that high. if it was honda would have set the stock rev limit higher. honda engineers are just a wee bit smarter than you, sorry to dissapoint

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dcb16 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

thats great your motor has lasted 15k, its well built. all im saying is revving your gsr/itr/ls block is not safe. a 1.54 (1.57 on gsr/itr) rod stroke ratio is not meant to rev that high. if it was honda would have set the stock rev limit higher. honda engineers are just a wee bit smarter than you, sorry to dissapoint</TD></TR></TABLE>

Sorry to burst your bubble, but the change in r/s ratio is indeed negative, but not to the point where mechanical stress is increased dramatically to negate using an LS crank in a GSR block. As for the rev limit on an LS, other factors come into play, not just r/s ratio. The LS block doesn't have a main girdle like and GSR/ITR, connecting rods have smaller bolts, the head cannot take high rpm's, etc.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dcb16 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
all im saying is revving your gsr/itr/ls block is not safe. a 1.54 (1.57 on gsr/itr) rod stroke ratio is not meant to rev that high. if it was honda would have set the stock rev limit higher. honda engineers are just a wee bit smarter than you, sorry to dissapoint</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you are really concerned about the effects of a 1.54 r/s over 1.57 r/s...whether a higher rev limit is safe....making that old argument that since honda didn't do it..it shouldn't be done, do yourself a favor and leave your motor stock.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlackPhoenix &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sorry to burst your bubble, but the change in r/s ratio is indeed negative, but not to the point where mechanical stress is increased dramatically to negate using an LS crank in a GSR block.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i know this already. if you read my statement i say that the different between 1.54 and 1.57 is hardly different ( i didnt say that word for word but thats what it means)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dcb16 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> you are hurting your rod stroke ratio (not by that much but it is still hurting) </TD></TR></TABLE>

anyways, this convo is way off topic.

to aser1z:
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lsv_gsr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you will need Ls main/rod bearings....and make sure you torqe down to Ls specs. </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

well i thought about it and after finding a buyer for my ls main/rod bearings i just ordered the gsr main/rod bearings and will now stay with the gsr crank and rods.your right honda ain't a bunch of idiots and i know that they have certain rev limits for a reason.by this week my motor should be built and i will have it dyno tuned either at vwparadise thhrough a pal or down in sd at enginuity.i'll have does posted as soon as im done.

 

some food for thought:

honda also is not ignorant to the fact that if you give a 9k rev limit, people are going to rev it that high (if not higher). thus, when the car was manufactured it had a warranty that they do not want to have to deal with when people are coming in every other day with smashed valves and destroyed motors due to constant revs. what i mean by this is that by setting a lower rev limit, it is reducing the amount of chance for that to happen. just take that into consideration as well.
i think 9k is a safe number to take to on occasion. but for daily driving purposes i personally woudlnt take it past 8.5k (or whatever the stock limit is)