Ok guys i know everyone is sick and tired of seeing another overheating thread but this one might be a lil dif. Possibly cracked CYLINDER HEAD?
Well since it was overheating i decided i need to make sure its fixed so i decided i was gonna put a lil more with it. So i went out got some full race traction bars put the new EG rad in it with new slim fan. Replaced the water pump, thermostat, rad cap, thermo sensor, and throughly cleaned the system. I also did a compression and leak down test. ALL GOOD. Compression was about 270 on all 4 cylinders and and leak down was no more than 8% on all 4 cylinders. I then bleed the system with heat on full blast extremly well about 2 times about 30 min a piece Well i thought this was def going to fix my overheating isssue. WRONG. The bastard still overheating. Its advadently building pressure somewhere becuase it fills the resivor completly up.

My heat only comes out sometimes but when it blows out cold air then it overheats. As soon as the heat blows again it begins to cool down. So obviosuly theres air in the system which causes no heat to come out when the air passes threw the heater core. THATS MY OPINION!!


So to sum it up i cant figure out what the crap is going on. Do you think theres a possible crack in the cylinder head causing air to get into the system? Thats the only thing that can be left. PLEASE HELP!!!!!

THANKS!!!




Modified by doublek at 7:33 PM 7/28/2005

 

Easy test is to get a coolant leak tester and pressurize the cooling system. If the pressure holds there are no leaks. If the pressure goes down and there are no visible external leaks from hoses, radiator ect you have a cracked cyclinder sleeve or blown headgasket ect.

 

I also did a compression and leak down test. ALL GOOD. Compression was about 270 on all 4 cylinders and and leak down was no more than 8% on all 4 cylinders.

 

someone has to know or have had a this problem.....i cant be the first.....

 

I had a problem like this, ended up being my cheap rad cap. It was filling up my reservoir when it got hot and wouldn't let the coolant go back into the system.

 

yeah....i actually changed that today......wishfull thinking, but no luck with that either

 

what kind of thermostat are you running.. i did a test a while back and here were the results.

I went and bought a thermostat from the following stores
1. advanced auto
2. napa
3. auto zone
4. pep boys
5 Honda
and the results were
1.the advanced auto one was rated at 180 degree's i did a test on it and it did not open til 211 degrees. so that went back in the box $ 8.79

2. Napa rated at 160 opened up at 185 $ 9.35

3 auto zone rated at 180 and opened at 190 $6.45

4 pep boys rated at 160 and opened at 171 and the 2nd time around it didnt open til 197( it was sticking 7.84

5 honda it was rated at 178 and opened at 176. $18.92.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMlyfestyle &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what kind of thermostat are you running.. i did a test a while back and here were the results.

I went and bought a thermostat from the following stores
1. advanced auto
2. napa
3. auto zone
4. pep boys
5 Honda
and the results were
1.the advanced auto one was rated at 180 degree's i did a test on it and it did not open til 211 degrees. so that went back in the box $ 8.79

2. Napa rated at 160 opened up at 185 $ 9.35

3 auto zone rated at 180 and opened at 190 $6.45

4 pep boys rated at 160 and opened at 171 and the 2nd time around it didnt open til 197( it was sticking 7.84

5 honda it was rated at 178 and opened at 176. $18.92.
</TD></TR></TABLE>


Awesome info, thx man

Looks like OEM comes out on top again.

 

runnin<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMlyfestyle &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what kind of thermostat are you running.. i did a test a while back and here were the results.</TD></TR></TABLE>


Im using just a factory replacement for autozone.........ive actually tested it and its opening at about 187 pretty consitantly........

The first one i didnt test.....i just figured it had to be that so i replaced it again....no luck

 

^^^^^^ now that was a real experiment. Great numbers!!! Hopefully it's the thermostat.

 

so did u do the cooling system check or not?someone told u to do it and u just yelled that you did a leakdown and a compression test..each of which is not the test he was referring too......

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GOLDBERG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so did u do the cooling system check or not?someone told u to do it and u just yelled that you did a leakdown and a compression test..each of which is not the test he was referring too......</TD></TR></TABLE>

My apoligies.....didnt mean it to be a "yell".....no i have not done a cooling system check? How would i do that?

 

Have you try to run without the thermostat?

 

no i havent.....benifical?

 

Well, it's kind like to check if the thermostat work properly or not. Also, the coolant get a free flow. What kind of slim fan you have?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by doublek &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

My apoligies.....didnt mean it to be a "yell".....no i have not done a cooling system check? How would i do that? </TD></TR></TABLE>

cooling system pressure tester ...like this one http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog...talog

 

This morning i finally got a better clue on a blown headgasket........finally got some air comming out the resivor lines....bubbles like a champ. Weird thing is that no air comes out of the lines while at idle. I bleed the system. Idled for about 45 min. ALL GOOD. Took for test drive about 30 min into it the gauge skyrockets. Looked at the resivor and it was overfilled with air bubbles oozing out of it.

NOW how do i tell if its a blown headgasket or a cracked cylinder head?

 

ur gonna have to pull the head either way. just do that

good luck.