ok si just finished my ls-v motor it ran perfectly fine except for vtec not working...i was driving about 1 week after my car was done...i gave it a 50% throttle rpm's rev up till 5300....i tried agian but this time i took it to 5,600 which i had done b4 but there was no vtec crossover...this time i hear a loud crossover into vtec which scared the **** outa me and i got really happy that vtec wwas working.. BUT wat i did not notice at the time was that my rpms went from 5,600 to 5,800 then my car turned off..i got out poped the hood everything seemed fine..so i get back in to try to start it..and all it does is crank...but wont turn over...i tryed many times...even reseted the ecu...i thought the timing belt jumped a tooth so i took that off..got my cam gears at TDC..then when i went to get my crank at TDC with a wrench and socket it wouldnt spin...ither way...wat can this be becuase of...i was told if ur motor cranks with the started it cant be seized...can any one give me some advise...thanks...sorry bout the lenth

 

did you try to take out your spark plugs when you tried to get the crank to tdc, so there would be no compression.

 

yup get out your testing stuff... Hard to tell.

the motor seizes when it overheats. And it takes a couple minutes of overheating for it to seize.

maybe your ignitor went out...heard of stories where peps just driving along, then loose all power. Theyre stumped, change the ignitor and everythings good. Im refering to teg btw.

 

ignitor would be....?

and btw the timing belt is off..now and i cant spin the crank and the car has been sitting for almost a week.

 

oh sorry, never had the problem...but in my SEARCHING peps use the word ignitor...I believe this to be the coil...ya know, battery-coil-dist-wire...

 

the coil should give 12v if you hook up your meter to it.

 

Sounds like you dropped a valve, cams were off. Pull the head.

 

Yep. DonF hit it right on the head. check all valve clearances, should be fairly obvious which one is dropped/bent or dropped and bent.

 

i pulled the head off...on piston number 2...theres a lil piece chipped off..maybe about 3 mm wide...but theres no damage on the valve....and its on the exhaust side

 

May wanna look into that head alittle closer, the valve may be bent down the stem maybe?
I would think some piston to valve contact would bend something unless it really was a small hit.

 

Alot of times you cant tell if a valve is bent by eyeballing it.

 

but why would my valve hit my piston if im not running after market valves or pistons...if i fix mt valves and piston...but not fix the actual problem it willl just happen agian wont it...

 

Rod bolt strecth?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LsVtec92Hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Rod bolt strecth?</TD></TR></TABLE>


i hope not.. i dont feel like takin my block apart...is there any way i can check the crank with out takin it out...

 

what pistons/cams/head are you running? Is the head milled? What rod bolts?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LsVtec92Hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what pistons/cams/head are you running? Is the head milled? What rod bolts?</TD></TR></TABLE>

im running pr3 pistons b16 valves type r valve train...ctr cams and stock ls rod bolts. and the head is milled to the 10th

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hitvtecgetloud09 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

stock ls rod bolts. and the head is milled to the 10th</TD></TR></TABLE>


Hmm....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hitvtecgetloud09 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

im running pr3 pistons b16 valves type r valve train...ctr cams and stock ls rod bolts. and the head is milled to the 10th</TD></TR></TABLE>

Stock Ls rod bolts.... That could be your problem, or it could become a problem real soon, what do you rev this engine to?
Ls rod bolts are puny and really won't hold up to more rpm's that the stock Ls redline.

 

well the motor had only been running for about a week as i mentioned on the first post...and the highest i reved it to was 5,800 and then this happend and i wasnt planning on reving past 8,000 any ways so my stock rod bolts would of handled that...

 

do any of you know a GOOD shop in socal(818) area who i can take my car to so they can fix it...cuz i dont have time to work on it ne more i work 40 hrs and im starting skool soon..so i need a car to get around... i found a couple shops but they seem like dumbass's

 

well..i feel like a DUMBASS cuz i realized last nite that the car was in gear when i tried to spin the crank hahaha laugh at me..ne ways i also checked the valves and there all fine...i also had some one else check every thing out and it all check out ok...im goin to put it all back together and see what happend...could it be that the timing belt jumped teeth at the time the car turned off and wouldnt turn back on?

 

*sigh* well at least thats taken care of.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LsVtec92Hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">*sigh* well at least thats taken care of.</TD></TR></TABLE>

...lol,ya thanks

 

LS blocks dont have knock sensors. U need a knock sensor n for vtec to work. Also ur vtec selonid needs to be hooked up. and oil pressure sensor, probably dont need it.

 

one more thing all this bent valve and timming belt jumping a tooth wont cause vtec not to work, they dont know what they are talking about.