Anyone know which part of installing the ES master kit is the hardest? What tools or machine need to be used? I'm gonna order the master kit soon and need to know what i really need to make the install go smoother and if i need a torch how can i access one. And if anyone have any tips or instruction on how to that would be nice. TIA

 

use the search, theres a lot of info out there....dont forget about the archived info too.

some of the bushings you can fit in by hand, others will require a press.

you WILL need a torch if you plan on doing it yourself, a simple propane torch will be fine. any hardware store should have them for $10 or so.

the hardest ones are the rear lcas, getting the old ones out is a PITA.

 

without a press it will be a lot of work getting the old ones out. as long as you have a bench vice you will be able to put all of them in yourself. none of the bushings require pressing in.

 

i did search... i looked at most of the threads and most of them was just saying how hard it is but they didnt really mention how to make the install go smoother and stuff

 

ok so i ordered the kit and from what i can tell is the front and rear lower control arm the bushing needs to be pressed out. Is that all from the kit that needs to be pressed out? I do not have a bench vice is there another way to get the bushings back in? And for anyone that did install the kit which one should i install first. I want to get the easy ones out of the way first since its like a ton of bushings.

 

bump.... do anyone know?

 

hardest ones are the rear lca and the front a arms all you really need is a good gas torch or butane/propane torch with a high temp, hacksaw or air saw works great to get the sleaves out once the bushings are burned and banged out with a hammer and a chisel or large flathead screwdriver. once you do a few they get easier. you'll need a vise though because you don't want to hold them while burning the bushings(ouch).shouldn't take more than 3-4 hours total .

maybe someone will be able to help me ???there are 4 bushings that get replace on the left side steering rack and i don't know were to look to find them. the instructions just say left side engine compartment.??? i'll look for the item# and post it later.

i did the install while i still had my stock suspension and WOW what an extreme difference! made it more responsive and felt tighter and easier to control.

 

i was thinking about putting it on the floor and using my feet to step on it while i use something to pull the bushing out. if worst come worst i can go to my friend's house to use the bench vice

 

putting them in with a hammer then pushing the sleeves in by hand works best for me. good luck doing it that way. whatever gets it to work i guess. use lots of the bushing grease you'll hate the squeeks they make if you didn't use any. GL.

 

from what i've read is use marine grease...

 

I gotta take out my rear lca bushings, I already got that inner metal sleeve out because I had to take a torch to the bolt to get out, so is it possible to get the bushing out with just the torch and a hammer,etc... Cause I want to avoid taking the entire lca off and getting it pressed out.

Also, is the rear lca bushing easy to install, whether its OEM or polyurethane?

 

how the hell did u get the sleeve out without taking the lca off of the car? and with just a hammer and torch??? and what car are talking about all oem bushings need to be pressed in. its impossible to hammer those things in i'd bet.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tRaCeBuStA &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">from what i've read is use marine grease... </TD></TR></TABLE>
gotta give that a try whats the difference and were can i buy it?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dnoredsi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how the hell did u get the sleeve out without taking the lca off of the car? and with just a hammer and torch??? and what car are talking about all oem bushings need to be pressed in. its impossible to hammer those things in i'd bet.</TD></TR></TABLE>

96 Integra LS

I had to cut the stock shock fork off, to get it off cause the bolt was snapped and the body of the bolt was INSIDE the bushing.

So, all there was to get out was the rest of the bolt that is still inside the bushing, so I took a metal punch, (i think their called that) and a hammer, and knocked out the bolt and along came the inner metal sleeve that belongs to the bushing. So now all I have to get out is the rest of the rubber bushing. Torch do the trick??

EDIT : I'm guessing it came out because of the intense heat that we put on the bolt, that or, the bolt was insanely seized to the metal sleeve and both came out together. And I can forget about getting that bolt out of the sleeve, never.

 

supposingly marine grease last longer then the grease that comes with the kit

 

ok so i started installing my ES master kit. For the front what exactly do i have to take off? Right now i got the whole knuckle, upper control arm, lca, and the stabilizer bar off. What else do i need to take off the car? On the LCA i already took the bushing out and if i'm correct i have to take the sleeve out of the 2 bushings on the LCA. Is the LCA the hardest part? Because it wasnt too hard for me.

 

Its the rear lca thats hard, not sure about the front.

 

fronts are easier then the rears .<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Asselin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">96 Integra LS

I had to cut the stock shock fork off, to get it off cause the bolt was snapped and the body of the bolt was INSIDE the bushing.

So, all there was to get out was the rest of the bolt that is still inside the bushing, so I took a metal punch, (i think their called that) and a hammer, and knocked out the bolt and along came the inner metal sleeve that belongs to the bushing. So now all I have to get out is the rest of the rubber bushing. Torch do the trick??

EDIT : I'm guessing it came out because of the intense heat that we put on the bolt, that or, the bolt was insanely seized to the metal sleeve and both came out together. And I can forget about getting that bolt out of the sleeve, never.</TD></TR></TABLE>

seems like u did it the hard way i would have just taken the lca off of the car and to the work bench. now u said the sleeve came out with the bushing??? ok there is a smaller sleeve that the bolt goes threw and a larger sleeve that the actual bushing is bonded too that has to be pressed in i doubt the larger one will come out with just a few whacks from a hammer and a metal punch(u must work out...lol). i first tried doing this on a 20 ton press but then realized that a saw and a torch were a lil easier and less dangerous. when there being pressed out they look like there gonna just start ricocheting all over the shop.

next time i'll try some of that marine stuff.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tRaCeBuStA &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok so i started installing my ES master kit. For the front what exactly do i have to take off? Right now i got the whole knuckle, upper control arm, lca, and the stabilizer bar off. What else do i need to take off the car? On the LCA i already took the bushing out and if i'm correct i have to take the sleeve out of the 2 bushings on the LCA. Is the LCA the hardest part? Because it wasnt too hard for me.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i wouldn't dissasemble the whole thing first just focus on one side at a time useing the instructions they supplied. you'll probably just confuse ur self and get p.o.'ed. the whole thing took me about 2.5 hour. (don't know if thats fast or not for this).

 

im thinking about getting a press to do the job. I'm trying to get one as cheap as possible and thats either a 6 or 12 ton press. I just want to be able to get the bushings out and wheel studs out and ball joints. Which press would do those jobs?

 

how do u guys that do it with the torch do it for all the bushing? do u guys burn the outside of the bushing or do u guys actually burn the bushing and then use a vice to pull it out?

 

I found burning the bushing out to be a real pain. I tried a couple that way and it became a smelly mess.

Instead, I took a small drill bit 1/8" or so and drilled alot of holes in the rubber close to the metal shell. Some of the bushing took multiple passes. It also helped to flip the LCA over and drill from the other side. Then I used a 6 ton press to pop out the metal core and most of the rubber. Then use a hacksaw or rotozip to cut the metal shell in multiple locations. Typically two vertical cuts in the shell was sufficient. Then using various punches I was able to remove the outer metal shell.

To install the bushings I used my 6 ton press which made it a snap. Otherwise a standard bench vise probably would of also worked.

For the most part, it would probably take me 15-20 minutes per bushing. Probably not the quickest but I found it the least frustrating.

BTW I think I bought the press for about $70 at harbor freight.

 

yeah i'm debating should i get the 6 ton press or the 12ton one. I'm not gonna be using the press that much and i just need it to install the ES kit right now and prob extended studs and replacing ball joints. The 6 ton one is like 60lbs vs the 12ton one is like 120lbs or so. How u like the 6 ton one? if you had the chance would u get the 12 ton one instead?

 

In a perfect world, I would of preferred to get the 12 or 18 ton press. At the time I thought a 6-ton would be sufficient which it wasn't. Though it was definitely more than sufficient in removing the rubber and metal cores and installing the new bushings.

I'm not sure a 12 or 18 ton is even sufficient. I had a bushing replaced in another Honda and the shop was just drilling out the bushing and cutting the sleeve. They had a large floor standing press. I don't remember the rating of it though.

If you have the space to store a floor standing press, I would go for it. The bigger work area would be nice and it'll be a heck of a lot more stable.

I'm not even sure you can use a press to install wheel studs. On the rear, the bearing assembly and wheel mounting flange is all on piece. So there's no direct way to apply pressure to the back of the stud. I just used a big nut with a couple of washers pulled the stud into the flange.

 

Does anyone know where to instal this part from ES on '94 ej2. Any photos or "know how" will help.

 

Answered in the other thread you bumped - steering rack bushings.

Probably should have made a new thread about this, instead of bumping 2 5-year old threads, as your question didn't really pertain to those threads' discussion.