I traded my 91 CRX Si for a straight bodied 90 DX Hatch. Had the car 2 days and already had a new used ZC motor and found an HT member selling a ZC trans. Couldn't find an int. shaft for the ZC trans so I hustled it back out. Then I bought an Si trans off of another HT member. Replaced the HG, water pump, t-belt, some misc lines and such and put the motor/trans into the car. Bought a PG7 5spd ECU and a resistor box from an Si. Got a MPFI manifold with almost all the wires/connectors complete. Problem was that I needed to do the DPFI => MPFI, I guess the other guy had tried to do it before me and got frustrated after a few wires broke on him. I'm really just wondering if I can salvage his mistake w/o having to buy another harness. I'm not usually a lazy person, but i *HATE* wiring. I just really dislike it and hate stressing on wiring. I was ready to just purchase an Si complete harness but a friend thought we should just fix the DPFI harness. Here's some pics, what does everyone think? Scrap it, or save it?

 

I say just fix the messed up harness. Looks like all you have to do is De-pin the pins where the wires were ripped out (looks like the idiot tried to just yank the wires out instead of properly de-pinning it ). All you need is a few spare pins and you're set.

It may seem like a hassle doing that, but trust me its a LOT easier than swapping in the whole Si harness

 

Wiring really isn't that bad...it just takes a HELM, a soldering iron, a depinning tool, and patience.

 

Why does your car have nice back rims and steelies on the front and what the heck is behind your car in that pic???

 

Those are some homosexual 16" rims, soon to be swapped for some Rotas. And the car behind me is an old VW Bug. Thats a pic from the first time I saw the car. They cut 4 1/2 coils off of it to give it that 'Mike Jones Stunna Style' drop..Even though it wasn't running, go figure. Can I find extra pins at Radioshaq or somewhere local? The Honda stealership is quite far from me. TIA, lates.

 

No local junk yards? Pretty much any Honda harness will work for pins.

 

Is that the jeepers creepers truck behind you'r hatch?, lol.

 

Eh.. well I went and made a bad situation a whole hell of alot worse. I couldn't wire my way out of a parallel circuit. Sounded quite amusing in my head... Well anyways, I destroyed the harness, made my own 5wire dizzy => 7 wire dizzy. Destroyed a few more pins. No fuel, no spark, but the motor cranks and only throws code 6. I can't believe how easily I could completely desimate that poor harness. I've got a donor dx hatch from the same year that Im'ma steal the harness out of and try to scrounge up some money for the rywire guys. Thanks for the confidence though guys. Lates.

BTW - Ryan, PM me if you read this

 

Good luck man, I'm going to have to do a MPFI conversion pretty soon too so i'm sure i'll be ripping out my hair at some point

 

Damnit! Now I see why I was having such trouble.. I had the pins wired upside down, meaning I confused positions such as C1 and C2 for each other, So I was removing and cutting the wrong damn wires! Argh!

I'm going to pick up another set of ECU harness plugs and cut 'em a few inchs from the ECU and retry this damn swap.

Also a question, did I get the wrong resistor box? Mine had 4 black wires, and 1 solid red one. It was strapped to the harness of the motor I bought which was an almost complete Si harness. I had the 4 black wires wired to each power wire on the injectors, and the red wire was wired to the large gauge yellow/black striped wire on the driverside shocktower harness clip.

 

That is the correct resistor box...sounds like you wired it in correctly.

 

Hmm, this is how I did my wiring.
I moved C1/C2[dizzy wires] to B10/B12[ECU Harness]
I ran the 2 dizzy wires[blue/yellow stripe + blue/green stripe] straight to the correct wires on B10/B12.
I used the female connector off the DX dizzy harness[5 wire] and wired it to a male connector off the Si harness[7 wire] and added the [blue/green stripe + blue/yellow stripe] to the male dizzy connector off the Si harness making it a 7 wire dizzy connector.

Then I ran the 4 red/black stripe injector power wires to the 4 black wires on the resistor box, and then cut the large gauge yellow/black striped wire off the driverside shock tower harness and wired that to the single red wire on the resistor box.

For the injectors #1/#3 I ran their primary wire to the old DPFI injector primary wires. And then ran the other 2 injector primaries straight to the ECU pins; A3/A7.

I'm using a PG7 ECU and the car cranks. There's no spark, plugs aren't wet. Fuel pump priming, got all the grounds on. Gotta be a miswire here somewhere. I think the ECU harness pins might of not been making contact since I bent some of the barbs pretty bad. And its only throwing code 6[Coolant temp sensor] only because I have yet to hook it up. Strange..

Also, I did play with the 2 solid white wires on the dizzy, didn't change anything, I'm guessing since there's no spark/fuel it wont matter just yet..

 

I don't know what the 10ish gauge yel/blk wire on the driver side shock tower goes to...but the injector resistor box red wire needs 12v switched. Make sure that's what it's getting. I know when I wired my resitor box into my EH2, there was no large gauge wire over there, but a 12V switched distribution plug feeding up to 8 things (I'm not terribly familiar with OBD-0 wiring quite yet). If you have a DMM, check to see if you're getting 12V between the large blk/yel wire and the battery ground when the ignition switch is on.

Can you verify whether or not your injectors are firing? You said you already know there is no spark, so something is definately fishy with your distributor wiring.

 

Yeah, theres no spark. Would not having C1/C2 pinned right cause the lack of fire? And the same with the injectors. Because I know my engine wiring is pretty damn on, but the ecu pins are pretty much 'funked.' The reason I know the injectors aren't firing is the plugs aren't wet. If the engine is turning yet theres no spark, the plugs would be wet with unburned fuel. And there's fuel making it to the filter and the fuel line to the fuel rail. I need more accurate info on the wiring for injector #1/#3, they use the old injectors primary, but the site I used for info, doesn't have the correct colors.