I'm thinking about upgrading to components and will be running them with an amp.

I don't plan on gettting a subwoofer.

I want to know how the sound would be with just a deck and an amp powering two front component speakers? Should rear speakers (deck powered) be added as well for best sound quality?

 

Obviously you will miss the bass from a sub but they will sound great, provided you get it set up the way you like it. I generally hate rear speakers but if you are not running a sub they will help a bit, make sure you keep more power up front though.

 

It will sound great if you get nice stuff. You won't miss your rear speakers at all.
You won't get low bass response though, since the doors are just not a very good bass enclosure. I've got this setup now and I'm planning to get some rear midbass drivers just to fill in the low end. The trunk will allow them to get much better bass response. I have a 4-channel amp, so I can do that.

Dan

 

can midbass drivers be run off a 60by4 deck or is an amp needed?


Modified by miksew at 8:51 PM 7/26/2005

 

instead, since your amping your front ones, make ur deck a 120 by 2, wire FD + RD positive to RD speaker positive and the same for negative, and repeat for passenger side basically wiring the output going to the front speakers with the output going to the rear speakers so ur rears are getting 2x power from ur HU

 

bridging head units is a big no no unless you enjoy destroying your deck's amp

 

i'd say go for it. i have amped comps in front myself and i couldn't be any more happier. not only you can turned up pretty loud but also with "clarity." some good rear speakers running off deck power would definitely help out with the lows. btw do avoid "bridging the h/u" its a bad idea

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by miksew &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">can midbass drivers be run off a 60by4 deck or is an amp needed?


Modified by miksew at 8:51 PM 7/26/2005</TD></TR></TABLE>
A 60x4 HU is not the same as a 60x4 amp. The HU will be 60w peak. The amp will probably be continuous.
The HU will probably do the job, but seriously, just get a 4-channel amp and have the flexibility to do whatever you want! If you do nothing in back for bass at all, you can still bi-wire your components and make them really shine.

BTW, the 6.5" drivers in back for bass (each driven by an amp'ed channel) is still something I'm working on, so I can't tell you how it will turn out yet. It's just the best thing I can come up with for good sound + no sub.

Dan

 

i was thinking the same thing bridging an hu??? what the hell??? u will love the sound difference between the amp powering ur speakers compared to ur deck it so much clearer and sounds super nice...i hate the way deck powered speakers sound...it just kills me when i sit inside someone elses car.

 

im running alpine spx-177R components up front and alpine spx-17MB in the rears. i decided not to use the x-over that came with the spx-17MB cause it was a LOW PASS x-over. anyhow, it sounds really good and theres seems to be alot of bass with just the HU powering it. im still debating on what amp to buy. im running them off my IVA-D300.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sleepy_Red_hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">instead, since your amping your front ones, make ur deck a 120 by 2, wire FD + RD positive to RD speaker positive and the same for negative, and repeat for passenger side basically wiring the output going to the front speakers with the output going to the rear speakers so ur rears are getting 2x power from ur HU</TD></TR></TABLE> Although there may be HUs out there that you may be able to do that to, ["bridging"] they are 2 ch unit's and all you are doing is bypassing the fader, the speakers still have the same power I know of no 4ch HU that can be bridged

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by miksew &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">bridging head units is a big no no unless you enjoy destroying your deck's amp</TD></TR></TABLE> 94

 

Thanks for everyones input.

I've decided to go with some kicker midbass freeair speakers in the rear and some high quality 6.5 components in the front all powered off a 4-channel amp.

Will I need to buy an equalizer or crossover to get the most out of this sytem? I have never had a 4-channel amp and I'm a bit curious as to how amp power is distributed and contolled between the front and rear.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by miksew &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks for everyones input.

I've decided to go with some kicker midbass freeair speakers in the rear and some high quality 6.5 components in the front all powered off a 4-channel amp.

Will I need to buy an equalizer or crossover to get the most out of this sytem? I have never had a 4-channel amp and I'm a bit curious as to how amp power is distributed and contolled between the front and rear.</TD></TR></TABLE> What kind of HU do you have? Most amps have highpass and lowpass x-overs in them, and there will be input sen. adjustments on the amp, at least one for the front and one for the rear, so you can control "gain" for the front and rear separately 94

 

Front/rear distribution is controlled both by the gain adjustments and the fader on the deck.

Have you chosen an amp yet?

 

As he is using a 3 way system, there is no need to even wire the rear RCAs 94

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">As he is using a 3 way system, there is no need to even wire the rear RCAs 94</TD></TR></TABLE>
What? How can you use all of a 4-channel amp without wiring the rear RCAs? Is there some way you can split the signal from the fronts to all four channels to bi-wire the speakers?

Dan