Engine won't start
crx with d16a6 block, z6 head, obd2 distributor(modded the feet to get ign timing correct), p28 ecu(boomslang obd0-obd1 conversion harness). Here's my problem, as I said it won't start. We found out that one of the wires was **** so i got new dizzy cap, rotor, wires, and plugs the whole nine yards. The car almost starts then dies. A week ago we had it running and it was running perfect idle at 14 btdc. Now the only symptom I can come up with is that when I try to start it up i hear a really fast clicking noise coming from under the dash close to the door. It has to be some kind of relay(my friend suggested the fuel pump). I am not sure that is the problem because when I give it gas trying to start it I can flood it and you can smell the gas so its getting the gas. It ran before and it clicked the first time it started(but it never did that before just recently after it has been sitting for a while and I have put money into upgrading parts). All I changed during that time was put a cai on and new exhaust. Someone smarter then me please help me and tell me what the **** is going on
Modified by corey91crxsi at 6:36 AM 7/26/2005
Modified by corey91crxsi at 6:36 AM 7/26/2005
Main Relay maybe? The clicking near the door sounds about right for that. If it's fritzing out, it might still be sending fuel to the injectors, but maybe sending too much... Maybe.
Well now that you mention it thats why I went and got new plugs and wires(i just said **** why not replace the whole system so i got a cap and rotor 2). I have done some searches too and they seem to say the same thing the main relay and that it might be grounding out. Well there are only like 4 grounds right? Battery, distributor, head, throttle body?
bump found out that its the main relay that is clicking would this keep the engine from firing???? It still cranks over but won't start up!
Modified by corey91crxsi at 4:27 AM 7/27/2005
Modified by corey91crxsi at 4:27 AM 7/27/2005
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not sure about the starter relay, but I don't think it would keep it from starting. Check your wiring lookinh at the dizzy bottom left clockwise 1432, the wire furthest away from the dizzy is 1 (no I don't think you're retarded, some people work on different things). Put the rotor button on, and before you put the cap on, put the motor on TDC for number 1. Hold the cap close to the rotor some what over it to see weather it will make contact with number 1. Make sure your timing belt is correct. If you have no spark it will not start. Make sure that the rotor button is not 180 out.
k you need compression, fuel, spark and timing to get the car to run.
so check for spark, than fuel if those check ok then move on.
if you get to timing check the belt, then the plug wires and if all that checks out, some distribs all the key to fit in 180 out and the rotor can sometimes fit 180 out. Both of these are very rare but might be the problem. With it barely starting it sounds like timing/firing order.
so check for spark, than fuel if those check ok then move on.
if you get to timing check the belt, then the plug wires and if all that checks out, some distribs all the key to fit in 180 out and the rotor can sometimes fit 180 out. Both of these are very rare but might be the problem. With it barely starting it sounds like timing/firing order.
Thanks for the pic 88dxcrx I have been lookin for a pic like that to have for reference. No offence taken civicdonwon I am open to any ideas right now. And no the dizzy is not 180 off it will only go on one way you are thinkin of obd0 and as I said the car was running before and I have the timing perfectly idling at 14 btdc. Well to let everyone know I tested and I have spark and I have fuel reaching the cylinders. That clicking turned out to be the main relay and I'm gonna try and replace it and see if that works. Which spot is where it needs to be soddered on the relay???? Since Honda has to be a panze and want $50 for a new relay!
Whoa I thought you said you had fuel and it was the starter relay. The main relay is what activates the fuel pump. No relay = no fuel. So you have fuel or you don't? Just resolder all the joints since your in there. I did my wifes the other day and I could not see any bad joints so I did them all...works great.
That is good the distrib only goes in one way (but you will see some that will go either way, trust me I know) The rotor is also only supposed to go on ONE way, but there are exeptions.
Keep it simple and do it one step at a time. Fuel, spark and then timing. Don't be hasty or overcomplicate it.
That is good the distrib only goes in one way (but you will see some that will go either way, trust me I know) The rotor is also only supposed to go on ONE way, but there are exeptions.
Keep it simple and do it one step at a time. Fuel, spark and then timing. Don't be hasty or overcomplicate it.
The main relay is clicking like crazy. We tested and I have spark. When I give it gas I can smell the gas so I suppose I am getting gas. New cap,rotor,plugs,and wires. Does the thermostat ground go on the thermostat cause I have it on my bottom/front bolt on the distributor and it has always been there and I had no problem but I will move it if thats what you suggest. But like I said the car WAS RUNNING PERFECT before I let it sit for about 2 weeks tried to start it and the only thing I see/hear wrong is that damn relay clicking like my annoying neighbor knocks on my door
thanks im pretty sure now that it is the main relay like Kwicko said <TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kwicko »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Main Relay maybe? The clicking near the door sounds about right for that. If it's fritzing out, it might still be sending fuel to the injectors, but maybe sending too much... Maybe.</TD></TR></TABLE> i think it might be sending too much fuel
Thanks for everyone's help I will get a new main relay tomarrow (friend's dad works at honda - nice to know someone on the inside
) if it doesn't fix the problem I shall return
) if it doesn't fix the problem I shall return
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