What do i have to buy 4 gauge or 0 gauge? Some products say 4 gauge is good for 1000-1500 watts? Thanks.

 

Take a look at this chart http://www.the12volt.com/info/recwirsz.asp 94

 

thanks, looks like im going with 0 gauge i need 14 feet of it.

 

2ga is all you need, good to 20', BTW is that 1400 watts rms, or 1400 peak 94

 

its a JL audio 1000/1 n jl 300/4

 

thats rms...dam balla...wish i could afford jL...only amp i could afford frum jL is the 500/1 and it got stolen wit my w6...and the thing that sux is i didnt knoe my insurance only covers up to 1000 for stuff inside my car...so it didnt even cover how much my stuff cost...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RideOrDie &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">its a JL audio 1000/1 n jl 300/4</TD></TR></TABLE> OIC, you have 2 amps, the 1000/1 is 1000 watts rms into 1.5 to 4 ohms 11V to 14.5V, the 300/4 is 75 watts rms x 4 into 1.5 to 4 ohms 11V to 14.5V, for a total of 1300 watts.
If you are running one line to a fuse/splitter box and then to the amps, then a 2ga would be enough, and if the splitter was within 4 ft of the amps you can use a 4ga for the 1000/1 and an 8ga for the 300/4, but here is a tip, run a 2ga for the 1000/1 with a 100A anl fuse at the batt. and run a 4ga for the 300/4 with a 40A fuse, [anl if you can get one, or at least a maxi] install a cap, [1 farrad][optinal but a good idea] on the 1000/1s 2ga power line as close to the amp as you can. Doing the power wiring this way will make for better SQ. BTW same gauge ground wires as the power wires and if you can ground both amps and the cap at the same place, and you do know you will have to upgrade your grounds in the engine bay, at the very least the batt. neg (-) to chassis and alt. to chassis/batt. and the "charge"line from the alt.to the batt. and you may want to start thinking about the "bigger" alt. now, if you like to "play it loud", I mean before you burn the stock one out 94

 

thanks for the good information.