Failed smog...some advice on what I need to check/replace?
1995 GSR
~130k miles

So basically...only the HC part failed for both the 15 mph and 25 mph. Any ideas on what can be going on?
25mph max is 56, meas. 79
15mph max is 90, meas. 171
Timing is at 12 BDTC when I checked it...says the same on that picture above. Should the timing be set back to 16 BDTC?
Thanks for the help guys.
~130k miles

So basically...only the HC part failed for both the 15 mph and 25 mph. Any ideas on what can be going on?
25mph max is 56, meas. 79
15mph max is 90, meas. 171
Timing is at 12 BDTC when I checked it...says the same on that picture above. Should the timing be set back to 16 BDTC?
Thanks for the help guys.
before you went to get it smogged, did you do a tune up on the car? like oil change, spark plug, cap and rotor? when i smogged my old crx w/ 178k, i did a full tune up on it, changed the cat, and o2 sensor and it passed w/ no problem. try doing what i did. if my old car passed, yours shouldn't be a problem. gl
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Lasty summons. Compared to last year's smog he showed me, NO and CO is down, but HC is up. HC results from more unburned fuel, while NO/CO are by-products of burned fuel. Replace the O2 sensors, set timing back to Honda recommendations, try again.
Regarding the cat, a 3-way cat uses 3 different catalyzing elements: gold, platinum and molybdenum if I'm correct. One of those might have broken down earlier than the others, resulting in a spike of one reading.
i think its probably your cat is bad. but if you want to just get it to pass smog, there's a couple things you can try. i got my mom's old car and my buddy's car to pass by retarting the timing on the distributor all the way. or you can also put a bottle of alcohol in your 1/2 full gas tank and run it through the test.
this worked for a few hondas that i know.
do you just run the car in there and take the test? or did you run it around and got the engine hot before you went in? i work at a shop and before we run a car through smog or we call it DEQ over here. we have a guy drive the car hard for 20-30 min.. get it really hot then take it over to the test center.
this worked for a few hondas that i know.
do you just run the car in there and take the test? or did you run it around and got the engine hot before you went in? i work at a shop and before we run a car through smog or we call it DEQ over here. we have a guy drive the car hard for 20-30 min.. get it really hot then take it over to the test center.
my 94 accord with 153k miles on it passed with FLYING COLORS today. i run synthetic oil in it, it has recent plugs, cap/rotor and i ran some fuel cleaner through the system a couple thousand miles ago. but most importantly, i rail on it constantly. we're talking bounce off the rev-limiter about once a week here. most mechanics have told me that's probably why it runs so clean. and it's orignal cat, exhaust, fuel filter, all that ****. just go wind your car out and then go back in.
Same here, my 160k RS also run clean with original cat and stuff. The way Acura extend the emission warranty by giving you a free oil change, new plug wires, new plugs, distributor cap and rotor, tells you that those are expected to wear out before 150k, and you should try those to get your car back to shape.
I changed my corolla's cap and rotor and wires and all of a sudden I get 10% better fuel economy, and my smog went back to like new. (with original cat at 120k).
If you look at all HC, NOX and CO they are all pretty high at 15mph, and at 25mph they are a tad better. I would say you should change your O2 sensor also.
Yeah, 12BTDC is too retarded for stock, get it back to 16 will make you pass HC/CO better.
I changed my corolla's cap and rotor and wires and all of a sudden I get 10% better fuel economy, and my smog went back to like new. (with original cat at 120k).
If you look at all HC, NOX and CO they are all pretty high at 15mph, and at 25mph they are a tad better. I would say you should change your O2 sensor also.
Yeah, 12BTDC is too retarded for stock, get it back to 16 will make you pass HC/CO better.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by phateless »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my 94 accord with 153k miles on it passed with FLYING COLORS today. i run synthetic oil in it, it has recent plugs, cap/rotor and i ran some fuel cleaner through the system a couple thousand miles ago. but most importantly, i rail on it constantly. we're talking bounce off the rev-limiter about once a week here. most mechanics have told me that's probably why it runs so clean. and it's orignal cat, exhaust, fuel filter, all that ****. just go wind your car out and then go back in.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Same here...I get on my Teg weekly and it has over 140k. I passed no problem. Its a 97 btw...
Same here...I get on my Teg weekly and it has over 140k. I passed no problem. Its a 97 btw...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FBP Si 2000 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Timing is at 12 BDTC when I checked it...says the same on that picture above. Should the timing be set back to 16 BDTC? </TD></TR></TABLE>
Why the heck didn't you set it back to 16 when you checked it? I guarantee that played a big role in your scores. I don't believe the crank pulley even has marks for 12 degrees. It is 18 degrees, 16 degrees, and 14 degrees. So if you were outside the 14 degrees you definitely should have set it back to 16 degrees.
Timing is at 12 BDTC when I checked it...says the same on that picture above. Should the timing be set back to 16 BDTC? </TD></TR></TABLE>
Why the heck didn't you set it back to 16 when you checked it? I guarantee that played a big role in your scores. I don't believe the crank pulley even has marks for 12 degrees. It is 18 degrees, 16 degrees, and 14 degrees. So if you were outside the 14 degrees you definitely should have set it back to 16 degrees.
Sometimes the simplest solution is the best one. Pull your plugs, look at em. See if there carbon coated. Could be the motor is dirty. Try some carb cleaner, and seafoam the motor, then oil change. Also check the rotor on the distributor and see if its worn. Might wanna make sure your getting complete combustion. Also, yes, check O2 sensor signal and set to proper timing. Also check your air fitler. You'd be surprised how much the basic easy to fix things can help emissions.
Your NOx count is close, you could be running too hot. Again, check the spark plugs, feel free to replace with the nice Iridium NGKs that give me such nice gas mileage, and get the proper heat range, dont go cold plugs unless your REALLY racing.
Your NOx count is close, you could be running too hot. Again, check the spark plugs, feel free to replace with the nice Iridium NGKs that give me such nice gas mileage, and get the proper heat range, dont go cold plugs unless your REALLY racing.
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