I'm in the process of putting an ls crank into a gsr. Unfortunately the counterweights are hitting the oil squirts. I'm running regular b16 pistons so I can't get rid of the oil squirts. I read that people are bending the oil squirts up. I wanna know how you guys are doing this. HELP???????

 

can you get rid of the oil squirters, yes.

Should you, no.

Can you bend them, yes....dont pinch the lines however.

 

Here's mine:

 

Golden Eagle makes a plug fitting that you can use to plug up the oil squiters hole.

 

<FONT SIZE="3">bend them and your good to go..just becareful not to break them</FONT>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SE_DA &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"><FONT SIZE="3">bend them and your good to go..just becareful not to break them</FONT></TD></TR></TABLE>

Bend them however and they will no longer shoot correctly at the skirts, no?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hybrid93Eg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Bend them however and they will no longer shoot correctly at the skirts, no?</TD></TR></TABLE>

This was what I was thinking also. Wouldn't aiming them at a different place on the piston defeat the purpose of the oil squirters. I could be completely off base here.

 

oil squirters=overrated IMO

 

plug 'em up. it's a weird thread pitch, though. in the past, i just had them welded closed.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by foot &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

This was what I was thinking also. Wouldn't aiming them at a different place on the piston defeat the purpose of the oil squirters. I could be completely off base here. </TD></TR></TABLE>

They are designed to aim at the underside, or back, of the piston skirts. They are not there for additional lubrication contrary to popular belief and are actually used for cooling the piston skirts down. The idea came from Hondas racing history and they are actually quite effective in track use. I wouldn't say they are "over rated" by any means and I would do my best to retain them.

 

Not saying that they "are" or "are not" required, but look at how many other motors don't have them! Does the GSR block need them for some specific reason? I WOULD think so, if Honda put them in there in the first place! Any opinions?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by becoming &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Not saying that they "are" or "are not" required, but look at how many other motors don't have them! Does the GSR block need them for some specific reason? I WOULD think so, if Honda put them in there in the first place! Any opinions?</TD></TR></TABLE>

All of the higher RPM B series and even H series engines have the oil squirters. You will notice all the B/H series Vtec engines have them, the non vtecs don't. The VTEC engines carry more of the racing herritage in thier design. Why? Because its a high rpm engine designed for high output. Seems simple to understand to me. I would be like saying "The LS blocks don't have the additional block webbing the GSR does, it must not be needed".. Similar concept.

 

IMO, which is opinion, not fact, they are overrated. same with the girdle.

I have built and seen many built motors lacking one or the other or both that ran trouble free. Im not saying they are useless and dont serve a purpose, but its much like the R/S ration argument, its not as important as you think it is.

personal opinion

 

They are used to help cool the cast pistons. Being that you are still running an OEM cast pistion I would not get rid of them. If you were running a forged piston I would get rid of them. No oil squirters in my motor.

 

i actually found some nice stainless steel bolts at the hardware store that plugged them up quite nicely with a washer and honda-bond. i had to do this cuz my pistons were hitting mine, and when i bent them, they were not aimed at nearly the same spot. ive been running these bolts in for 6k miles, and no problems.

 

actually, i just noticed this, -1 for me not reading the entire thread.

cast pistons or OEM i would use them or try to keep them for extra insurance
Forged internals, who cares if you have them

none in my motor

 

What Brad said. Cast expands/contracts faster than forged and therefore can create hotspots which is what the oil squirters are there to prevent. Forged aluminum has better heating properties and can operate in higher temperature conditions so you don't require them as you would with cast aluminum. And yes, I said required. You CAN bend them to work, and I would highly recommend that you do so. If its for a drag motor its probably not as important, but I would emphasise the word required if it was a track motor.

FYI I have mine bent around my 85mm sleeves for added protection.

 

i took a a hard plastic stick and a hammer and slightly tap them downward a little. I'm not sure if its going to prevent it from squirting or even working properly but the ls crank spins freely now.

 

i only heard of peeps putting ls cranks in if they got forged pistons, and they just get GE plugs. if u bend them they wont serve there purpose. bending them makes them squirt in a different location or not squirt at all if bent to much. just my .02 cents but correct me if i am wrong.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VtecKiDD &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">actually, i just noticed this, -1 for me not reading the entire thread.

cast pistons or OEM i would use them or try to keep them for extra insurance
Forged internals, who cares if you have them

none in my motor </TD></TR></TABLE>

They are more for reducing the heat of cast pistons since the cast pistons hold the heat in alot more than a forged one.

 

alright ppls, thumbs up for the ppls that said oil squirters are for cooling down the piston becuz thats exactly what oil squirters do. If you bend them, aim them, or whatever you do to them they will still do the job. even though they have been bent and not aimmed in the same spot, no need to freak out becuz they are still squirting under the piston therefore the piston is still getting cooled down. If you look CAREFULLY and NOTICE the oil squirters is mounted only on the intake side of the block and pointed straight up then that should give you a clue that it is to cool the piston in general nothing more. Now, if you have bent or pince the line then thats ok becuz the line is there to direct the oil. The main part to be concern about is the spring inside the oil squirter that regulates the pressure and if the spring doesn't work then the engine oil pressure will drop and that means you will be *** out. To have or not to have that is the ? it is good to have in general if you have a built motor w/ forge but a must for cast piston. Personally I would have it if I can becuz it helps cool down the piston, less hot spot, and helps prevent detonation. So take your pick and be happy about it but dont say that I didn't tell you so.

 

Alright, i ran into a problem. I put the crank in and it seems to spin freely. However, when i put in the pistons, they push up the oil squirts, then causes the crank to hit them. So in other words, the oil squirts are getting "sandwiched" in between the crank and the bottom of the pistons . Anyone have any suggestions???????

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blu3g &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Alright, i ran into a problem. I put the crank in and it seems to spin freely. However, when i put in the pistons, they push up the oil squirts, then causes the crank to hit them. So in other words, the oil squirts are getting "sandwiched" in between the crank and the bottom of the pistons . Anyone have any suggestions???????</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you are using a forged piston, then just take them out. I remove tham on ALL my motor, race or street, with forged pistons and have yet to have a problem. Plus they only cost a few bucks:

Click here to find out the price.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GoldenEagleMfg.com &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

If you are using a forged piston, then just take them out. I remove tham on ALL my motor, race or street, with forged pistons and have yet to have a problem. Plus they only cost a few bucks:

Click here to find out the price.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm not running forged pistons though. I should have ran them but i'm running out of time cause school starts soon.

 

You also have to remember--Honda with the vtec motors, were not selling race motors that were going to be rebuilt every couple-hundred miles or even hot street motors that would see 10,000-20,000 miles before a teardown--they are selling motors in production cars that will see every temperature extreme, many starts from 0 degrees, 110 degrees, and (hopefully) won't need a rebuild for 200,000 miles!! That is why there are oil squirters on production motors that will see 8200 rpm from the dealers lot. Honda has to cover their *** against every possible circumstance the motor will be used for. This is why nobody really has problems with the lack of the squirters on LS/VTECs. They probably won't see 220,000 miles (I could be wrong though)