civic swap map/idle probs
hi..i am posting this in a couple forums other than where it should be because noone from hybrid seems to ba able to help me...i would like to see if someone from the delaware area (northern) would be willing to stop by sometime and help me figure out what is wrong with my car...ive already tried the suggestions thing on here to no avail.. i need a really good person willing to stop over..if you can help me figure out what the problem is ill give u like a hundred bucks...im having map issues with a swap i did from my integra to my civic...jdm motor, gsr trans, complete harness, no splices or cuts at all...ecm..basically a direct swap..ran fine for a year in the teg..ive tried everything..its throwing a code 3 and idle wont drop from 1400 even when warm...i tried vacuum checks and leak checks, 3 map sensors, spare ecm, cleaning all the connectors, iac and tps just for the hell of it...not fixing..need help.going nuts..wanna get back to track....PLEASE SOMEONE GOOD!!!!!..... my email is LoradoLr@aol.com..
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,779
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From: San Diego, I miss Chicago, but love SD, CA, US of fuckin A
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmspecb18 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hi..i am posting this in a couple forums other than where it should be because noone from hybrid seems to ba able to help me...i would like to see if someone from the delaware area (northern) would be willing to stop by sometime and help me figure out what is wrong with my car...ive already tried the suggestions thing on here to no avail.. i need a really good person willing to stop over..if you can help me figure out what the problem is ill give u like a hundred bucks...im having map issues with a swap i did from my integra to my civic...jdm motor, gsr trans, complete harness, no splices or cuts at all...ecm..basically a direct swap..ran fine for a year in the teg..ive tried everything..its throwing a code 3 and idle wont drop from 1400 even when warm...i tried vacuum checks and leak checks, 3 map sensors, spare ecm, cleaning all the connectors, iac and tps just for the hell of it...not fixing..need help.going nuts..wanna get back to track....PLEASE SOMEONE GOOD!!!!!..... my email is LoradoLr@aol.com..</TD></TR></TABLE>
Code 3 is for MAP wiring.
Code 3 is for MAP wiring.
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,779
Likes: 0
From: San Diego, I miss Chicago, but love SD, CA, US of fuckin A
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HondaFanatic708 (From post linked to below) »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Well if the CEL indicates 3 there is a problem in the MAP sensor electrical circuit. A 5 would be more vac lines or the sensor itself. Som bustb out the multimeter, here goes nothing..
1. Do the ECM reset procedure.
2. Start the engine and allow it to idle..
3. If no MIL then it was an intermittent failure. Check for loose connections at ECM, MAP and C212 (right shock tower clip)
If the MIL is on tur off the ignition, disconnect the 3p connector at the MAP sensor. Turn the ignition switch on again (Don't start it)
4.Measure voltage from YEL/RED terminal (The one that would be closest to the firewall when connected to the TB mounted MAP sensor) and a body ground. Is the approx. 5v? If YES skip to step 5.. If no measure voltage between D19 and D21 on the ECU. (You can do this by carefully upening the backing of the D ECM clip and touching the terminals from there.) Is there approx. 5v? If yes repair the break in the YEL/RED, YEL/GRN wire between the D19 terminal on the ECM and the MAP sensor.. If there isn't 5v here replace the ECM with a known good ECM and retest.
5. Now measure the voltage between the same YEL/RED terminal on the MAP and the GRN/WHT (The middle terminal) Is there approx. 5v? If no repair the break in the GRN/WHT, GRN/BLU wire between the MAP and D21 on the ECM. If there is approx. 5v proceed to next step.
6. Now measure for voltage between the GRN/WHT (middle) and WHT(One closest to front of car when connected) Is there approx 5v? If yes skip to next step. If no then measure for voltage between the D17 and D21 terminals at the ECM. Is there approx 5v? If no substitute a known good ECM and recheck, if there is voltage here now replace the origional ECM. If yes repair the break in the WHT, PNK/WHT wire between the D17 terminal of the ECM and the MAP sensor.
7. This step is if you had voltage from the first part of step 6. Reconnect the MAP sensor plug. Measure for voltage between the D17 and D21 terminals at the ECM, is there approx. 3v? If no replace the MAP sensor, if YES substitute a known good ECM and if symptoms go away replace the origional ECM.
And thats all you have to do, pretty simple huh. No make sure to take your time, do every step through the flow order. I guarentee that if you do this correctly you will discover the problem... Good luck and hit me up with any additional questions..
</TD></TR></TABLE>
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1292896
Well if the CEL indicates 3 there is a problem in the MAP sensor electrical circuit. A 5 would be more vac lines or the sensor itself. Som bustb out the multimeter, here goes nothing..
1. Do the ECM reset procedure.
2. Start the engine and allow it to idle..
3. If no MIL then it was an intermittent failure. Check for loose connections at ECM, MAP and C212 (right shock tower clip)
If the MIL is on tur off the ignition, disconnect the 3p connector at the MAP sensor. Turn the ignition switch on again (Don't start it)
4.Measure voltage from YEL/RED terminal (The one that would be closest to the firewall when connected to the TB mounted MAP sensor) and a body ground. Is the approx. 5v? If YES skip to step 5.. If no measure voltage between D19 and D21 on the ECU. (You can do this by carefully upening the backing of the D ECM clip and touching the terminals from there.) Is there approx. 5v? If yes repair the break in the YEL/RED, YEL/GRN wire between the D19 terminal on the ECM and the MAP sensor.. If there isn't 5v here replace the ECM with a known good ECM and retest.
5. Now measure the voltage between the same YEL/RED terminal on the MAP and the GRN/WHT (The middle terminal) Is there approx. 5v? If no repair the break in the GRN/WHT, GRN/BLU wire between the MAP and D21 on the ECM. If there is approx. 5v proceed to next step.
6. Now measure for voltage between the GRN/WHT (middle) and WHT(One closest to front of car when connected) Is there approx 5v? If yes skip to next step. If no then measure for voltage between the D17 and D21 terminals at the ECM. Is there approx 5v? If no substitute a known good ECM and recheck, if there is voltage here now replace the origional ECM. If yes repair the break in the WHT, PNK/WHT wire between the D17 terminal of the ECM and the MAP sensor.
7. This step is if you had voltage from the first part of step 6. Reconnect the MAP sensor plug. Measure for voltage between the D17 and D21 terminals at the ECM, is there approx. 3v? If no replace the MAP sensor, if YES substitute a known good ECM and if symptoms go away replace the origional ECM.
And thats all you have to do, pretty simple huh. No make sure to take your time, do every step through the flow order. I guarentee that if you do this correctly you will discover the problem... Good luck and hit me up with any additional questions..
</TD></TR></TABLE>
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1292896
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,779
Likes: 0
From: San Diego, I miss Chicago, but love SD, CA, US of fuckin A
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmspecb18 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">bump</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well I tried to explain the flowchart without having to search it out for you but here is the link
http://www.honda.co.uk/owner/C...0.pdf
I'll post this in the hybrid topic as well.. Just so you see one of them..
Well I tried to explain the flowchart without having to search it out for you but here is the link
http://www.honda.co.uk/owner/C...0.pdf
I'll post this in the hybrid topic as well.. Just so you see one of them..
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