Getting DMH exhaust cutout... should i go 3" or 2.5"? setup inside, TIA!
95 gsr JRSC @ 6 lbs jdm itr header and itr exhaust.
Here is my issue. I had 3" from the collector all the way back including the cat. I actually gained horsepower by putting the silencer in, but i had more torque with it oncorked. So im guessing 3" is too big. So now i want to go with the cutout but the 2.5" cutout isnt really 2.5 its more like 2 1/4 or something. So should i go with the 3"? it would be something like 2 3/4, i just dont want it too big and to lose power from being too big.
Also my other issue is that if i get a 3" cutout how will i connect it to my header and cat?
Should i run it before the cat or after it? And why?
How will ground clearance be?
I know its alot of questions but i sure do appreciate your help..
Here is my issue. I had 3" from the collector all the way back including the cat. I actually gained horsepower by putting the silencer in, but i had more torque with it oncorked. So im guessing 3" is too big. So now i want to go with the cutout but the 2.5" cutout isnt really 2.5 its more like 2 1/4 or something. So should i go with the 3"? it would be something like 2 3/4, i just dont want it too big and to lose power from being too big.
Also my other issue is that if i get a 3" cutout how will i connect it to my header and cat?
Should i run it before the cat or after it? And why?
How will ground clearance be?
I know its alot of questions but i sure do appreciate your help..
This was posted awhile back the 3'' fits onto a 2.5'' flange perfectly. There is a picture showing what you're talking about and how it works fine. The DMH is a tad smaller than 2.5'' at the opening like you were also saying.
Go for the 3'' version.
Go for the 3'' version.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bay_707 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">95 gsr JRSC @ 6 lbs jdm itr header and itr exhaust.
Here is my issue. I had 3" from the collector all the way back including the cat. I actually gained horsepower by putting the silencer in, but i had more torque with it oncorked. So im guessing 3" is too big. So now i want to go with the cutout but the 2.5" cutout isnt really 2.5 its more like 2 1/4 or something. So should i go with the 3"? it would be something like 2 3/4, i just dont want it too big and to lose power from being too big.
Also my other issue is that if i get a 3" cutout how will i connect it to my header and cat?
Should i run it before the cat or after it? And why?
How will ground clearance be?
I know its alot of questions but i sure do appreciate your help..</TD></TR></TABLE>
Let me get this straight.
Currently, you run a full 3" header-back exhaust? If that's the case, wouldn't it be better to just completly redo your piping to 2.5"? I know that's more expensive, but you really have no choice since you'd be doing just about the same thing when you run the cutout. How would it sound with basically an open header?
Anyhow, if you really don't give a **** and want to do it anyway. Here's what I suggest. I have a turbo car and run the 3" cutout before the cat like this:

Its basically a 3" down turn from the turbo exhaust side, then 2.5" T's off of it into my test pipe into my stock ITR exhaust. Of course mine sounds like a diesel truck because of the turbo. The only thing I despise about open cutout is the smell, but I've gotten used to it.

My 3" QTEC cutout.
Whatever size you decide for your cutout (3" would probably be better), you should run it after the cat. So then you wouldn't have to mess too much with getting a new Y-pipe that will go before the header and cat. Another pro to doing it this way is that it wouldn't smell as bad since the cat will be helping reduce the pollutants and smell.
So this is how it would go. Add a Y pipe after the cat so that it looks something like this:
header--CAT---\---resonator----exhaust
The slash part is where the cutout would go. To tell you the truth, I don't know of any supercharged guys who run cutouts. You would be the first if you do proceed with this.
Anyhow, this weekend I will be taking off my cutout so I can send it to get fixed. The motor got ripped away after I hit something on the freeway (I'm dumped so it was inevitable for me). I can measure the cutout hole for you if you want me to.
Here is my issue. I had 3" from the collector all the way back including the cat. I actually gained horsepower by putting the silencer in, but i had more torque with it oncorked. So im guessing 3" is too big. So now i want to go with the cutout but the 2.5" cutout isnt really 2.5 its more like 2 1/4 or something. So should i go with the 3"? it would be something like 2 3/4, i just dont want it too big and to lose power from being too big.
Also my other issue is that if i get a 3" cutout how will i connect it to my header and cat?
Should i run it before the cat or after it? And why?
How will ground clearance be?
I know its alot of questions but i sure do appreciate your help..</TD></TR></TABLE>
Let me get this straight.
Currently, you run a full 3" header-back exhaust? If that's the case, wouldn't it be better to just completly redo your piping to 2.5"? I know that's more expensive, but you really have no choice since you'd be doing just about the same thing when you run the cutout. How would it sound with basically an open header?
Anyhow, if you really don't give a **** and want to do it anyway. Here's what I suggest. I have a turbo car and run the 3" cutout before the cat like this:

Its basically a 3" down turn from the turbo exhaust side, then 2.5" T's off of it into my test pipe into my stock ITR exhaust. Of course mine sounds like a diesel truck because of the turbo. The only thing I despise about open cutout is the smell, but I've gotten used to it.

My 3" QTEC cutout.
Whatever size you decide for your cutout (3" would probably be better), you should run it after the cat. So then you wouldn't have to mess too much with getting a new Y-pipe that will go before the header and cat. Another pro to doing it this way is that it wouldn't smell as bad since the cat will be helping reduce the pollutants and smell.
So this is how it would go. Add a Y pipe after the cat so that it looks something like this:
header--CAT---\---resonator----exhaust
The slash part is where the cutout would go. To tell you the truth, I don't know of any supercharged guys who run cutouts. You would be the first if you do proceed with this.
Anyhow, this weekend I will be taking off my cutout so I can send it to get fixed. The motor got ripped away after I hit something on the freeway (I'm dumped so it was inevitable for me). I can measure the cutout hole for you if you want me to.
thanks for the time to make the detailed post. I want to sound completely stock until i open the cutout, which is the reason i dont want to redo the piping. besides i alread purchased the itr full exhaust and it even came with an itr cat
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so should i buy a 2.5" cat or a 3" cat.... : / . Will there be a problem going from a 2.5" cat to a 3" cutout? i guess they can bottleneck it... maybe i dont want to lose hp when i go through all this trouble like i did with the 3"
Get the 2.5 Cat--The Y piping should bolt up to the 2.5 cat as long as you get the correct flange. This is going to be custom stuff since you have to get the flange that will bolt up to the cat and the flange to the exhaust piping and also the flange for the cutout. I'm sure that you can use a reducer and flip it backwards like a 3" > 2.5" then flip it backwards---you can weld the 3"flange and attach the cutout. May sound a little confusing but I hope you get the idea.
And it will sound SUPER quiet when the cutout is closed.
And it will sound SUPER quiet when the cutout is closed.
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