GSR crank VS LS crank in GSR block
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From: nothing is real unless it is observed
Agreed that neither has much of an advantage.
I have all parts for either setup in a b18c block with B16a head. Eagle rods and 12.5:1 Wesico Pistons
87.2 vs 89 is not much I know, I have parts for either setup just looking for opinions.
I have all parts for either setup in a b18c block with B16a head. Eagle rods and 12.5:1 Wesico Pistons
87.2 vs 89 is not much I know, I have parts for either setup just looking for opinions.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TOR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">LS crank will give a little more torque and a little more compression.</TD></TR></TABLE>
true
GsR will give you a bit higher rpm horsepower, Is that 12.5:1 pistons with gsr crank or Ls crank?
true
GsR will give you a bit higher rpm horsepower, Is that 12.5:1 pistons with gsr crank or Ls crank?
I am always biased towards shorter strokes becuase they're better RPM ability, but honestly you might as well go with the LS crank, because it will give that extra torque and displacement, and you can get either one so hell.
i have been doing a lot of reading on this board for months now. from what i gather, gsr block + ls crank + ctr pistons = serious oem potential. i think that might be my next project...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ( o )( o ) »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have been doing a lot of reading on this board for months now. from what i gather, gsr block + ls crank + ctr pistons = serious oem potential. i think that might be my next project...</TD></TR></TABLE>
wow you better have some 110 octane fuel at your local 76
wow you better have some 110 octane fuel at your local 76
89mm stroke will net you higher displacement, compression and torque.
87.2mm stroke will give you higher rpms.
Hope you have access to race fuel or higher octane pump gas...
I am also biased on the 87.2mm crank.
87.2mm stroke will give you higher rpms.
Hope you have access to race fuel or higher octane pump gas...
I am also biased on the 87.2mm crank.
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From: nothing is real unless it is observed
Thanks alot for all of the replies.
The 12.5:1 is a generic raito and not an exact number that will be calculated durring the build.
I was just looking for some thoughts and am impressed with the responces. I thought there was a possibility of the GSR crank having some benifits over the LS. SO it looks like LS crank it is.
Another plus I hear the LS crank is about 2lbs lighter.
A few of you noted that the GSR crank would provide higher RPM horsepower, wouldnt this be a Con? Higher RPM just turns into more wear correct?
The 12.5:1 is a generic raito and not an exact number that will be calculated durring the build.
I was just looking for some thoughts and am impressed with the responces. I thought there was a possibility of the GSR crank having some benifits over the LS. SO it looks like LS crank it is.
Another plus I hear the LS crank is about 2lbs lighter.
A few of you noted that the GSR crank would provide higher RPM horsepower, wouldnt this be a Con? Higher RPM just turns into more wear correct?
yes a LS crank will fit into a gsr block. It will actually be more better so you dont have to run the external oil line for ls vtec. I would go with the 89mm LS crank with pr3 or p30 pistons just so its streetable
Dont sorry about the R/S ratio and i think the c/r is mid 11ish. And i was under the impression that a Ls crank moves your peak tq realy up in the powerband due to the longer stroke. Any truth towards this? or is the difference not that big of a deal?
using the LS rods and crank hmm lets see what your asking.
what is the rod/stroke ratio?
rod = LS
stroke = LS stroke
looks like we have a LS r/s ratio!!
also heard you have to bend the oil squirters back a little to clear the LS couterweights
what is the rod/stroke ratio?
rod = LS
stroke = LS stroke
looks like we have a LS r/s ratio!!
also heard you have to bend the oil squirters back a little to clear the LS couterweights
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DEMNTD1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">89mm stroke will net you higher displacement, compression and torque.
87.2mm stroke will give you higher rpms.
Hope you have access to race fuel or higher octane pump gas...
I am also biased on the 87.2mm crank.</TD></TR></TABLE>Can I ask why people think that a less then 2 mm difference in stroke changes the power band so much.There are 95mm motors spinning 9,000 rpm or more. 2mm is about .080 use whatever crank you have gsr or ls it won't make that big of a difference to justify buying new parts if you have the parts to already run one or the other.
87.2mm stroke will give you higher rpms.
Hope you have access to race fuel or higher octane pump gas...
I am also biased on the 87.2mm crank.</TD></TR></TABLE>Can I ask why people think that a less then 2 mm difference in stroke changes the power band so much.There are 95mm motors spinning 9,000 rpm or more. 2mm is about .080 use whatever crank you have gsr or ls it won't make that big of a difference to justify buying new parts if you have the parts to already run one or the other.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ed’s Racing Heads »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Can I ask why people think that a less then 2 mm difference in stroke changes the power band so much.There are 95mm motors spinning 9,000 rpm or more. 2mm is about .080 use whatever crank you have gsr or ls it won't make that big of a difference to justify buying new parts if you have the parts to already run one or the other.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well, this is all motor honda were talking about here every little bit helps, and im going to get a bare gsr block, thats why im going with an ls crank.
So back to my origional question. Do the rods have to be machined to work in the gsr block?
Well, this is all motor honda were talking about here every little bit helps, and im going to get a bare gsr block, thats why im going with an ls crank.
So back to my origional question. Do the rods have to be machined to work in the gsr block?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crixzc »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You dont think reving an engine higher causes more ring wear? Think again.</TD></TR></TABLE>
gotta love honda tech
so you have GSR rods, pistons for a GSR and want to use it on a LS crank.
good luck
gotta love honda tech
so you have GSR rods, pistons for a GSR and want to use it on a LS crank.
good luck
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From: nothing is real unless it is observed
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by johnzm »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
gotta love honda tech
so you have GSR rods, pistons for a GSR and want to use it on a LS crank.
good luck
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Do you read pal? Honestly before you try to make a smart *** remark try having someone else explain **** to you next time. And yes if you have to rev your motor higher to make power it will make your rings wear faster.
Im so sick of dumbasses trying to sound smart by taking wild punches and trashing someone elses posts. If your not helping keep the hell out.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crixzc »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Agreed that neither has much of an advantage.
I have all parts for either setup in a b18c block with B16a head. Eagle rods and 12.5:1 Wesico Pistons
87.2 vs 89 is not much I know, I have parts for either setup just looking for opinions.</TD></TR></TABLE>
gotta love honda tech
so you have GSR rods, pistons for a GSR and want to use it on a LS crank.
good luck
</TD></TR></TABLE>Do you read pal? Honestly before you try to make a smart *** remark try having someone else explain **** to you next time. And yes if you have to rev your motor higher to make power it will make your rings wear faster.
Im so sick of dumbasses trying to sound smart by taking wild punches and trashing someone elses posts. If your not helping keep the hell out.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crixzc »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Agreed that neither has much of an advantage.
I have all parts for either setup in a b18c block with B16a head. Eagle rods and 12.5:1 Wesico Pistons
87.2 vs 89 is not much I know, I have parts for either setup just looking for opinions.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You can rev the LS crank and rods just as much as the GSR crank if you wish. Uprgrading the LS rod bolts wouldn't be a bad idea. Hell you can balance everything if you really want to, just to be safe. But there's no need to.
500 more rpm won't make to damn much of a difference. In the length of time you will have your motor (either due to blowing it, selling it, or rebuilding it, you won't experience the wear you're bitching about. Just build it and enjoy life with an LS/VTEC. My buddy (D-Rob) is doing one right now. We're also in PA. Not sure where you're actually located. But feel free to visit and bullshit with us.
500 more rpm won't make to damn much of a difference. In the length of time you will have your motor (either due to blowing it, selling it, or rebuilding it, you won't experience the wear you're bitching about. Just build it and enjoy life with an LS/VTEC. My buddy (D-Rob) is doing one right now. We're also in PA. Not sure where you're actually located. But feel free to visit and bullshit with us.
I have built several of these GSR block/ LS crank rod combos...
Everyone is bent on R/S ratios... Forget it, the rod connects the piston to the crank. Enough said. This combination will spin as high as you could possibly need it and then some. It will also net you a little more torque earlier in the rev band. As long as your engine builder knows what he is doing, little needs to be done to fit the LS crank in the block except for blocking off the oil squirters. My suggestion is to run ARP rod bolts (if using stock rods) and have the rods resized. Run the bearing clearances loose on the factory specs.
TUNE... TUNE... TUNE!
Everyone is bent on R/S ratios... Forget it, the rod connects the piston to the crank. Enough said. This combination will spin as high as you could possibly need it and then some. It will also net you a little more torque earlier in the rev band. As long as your engine builder knows what he is doing, little needs to be done to fit the LS crank in the block except for blocking off the oil squirters. My suggestion is to run ARP rod bolts (if using stock rods) and have the rods resized. Run the bearing clearances loose on the factory specs.
TUNE... TUNE... TUNE!


