Engine Shutters when power is drawn....
On my 96 Accord LX, I have been noticing that at certain times the engine will shutter. Most noticably when the AC is on. However I also have noticed it shutters when the radiator fans come on and when I turn on the lights. Mostly when it's idleing or sitting at a stop light.
At first I thought there was something with the AC system causing some load on the engine but not since I have noticed it with other things I am begginning to think that there may be a power draw somewhere. If I rev the engine up slightly above 1000 rpm, then I see none of this. It idles right aroun 700 rpm which from what I was told is right about where it needs to be. It only does it for maybe a second or two and then is ok.
Could there indeed be a power draw somewhere and would the alternating circuit have anything to do with this? Would raising the idle rpm up be safe? I don't want the car to be too far out of range though.
Thanks,
S
At first I thought there was something with the AC system causing some load on the engine but not since I have noticed it with other things I am begginning to think that there may be a power draw somewhere. If I rev the engine up slightly above 1000 rpm, then I see none of this. It idles right aroun 700 rpm which from what I was told is right about where it needs to be. It only does it for maybe a second or two and then is ok.
Could there indeed be a power draw somewhere and would the alternating circuit have anything to do with this? Would raising the idle rpm up be safe? I don't want the car to be too far out of range though.
Thanks,
S
yea i have a 94 Accord and the same thing happens to me, I always thought it was because of a low idle, but it just seems that the alternator isn't recharging the battery fast enough at a low idle when you at a stop light or something i wouldn't worry about it
Thanks everyone. Would upgrading to a higher amp alternator fix this? I thought this may be what it is but wasn't quite sure.
RPM I think when it was last checked about a month or so ago was right around 700rpm. When I was getting it serviced for AC I had them check it for me. He said it was right where it needed to be.
It has not become a huge problem but it bugs me though and would really like to figure out why.
RPM I think when it was last checked about a month or so ago was right around 700rpm. When I was getting it serviced for AC I had them check it for me. He said it was right where it needed to be.
It has not become a huge problem but it bugs me though and would really like to figure out why.
upgrade your grounds...it definately made a difference on mine...
i used 4 guage wire w/ gold plated connectors.
ran one from the body of the alternator to the core support, one from the block to chassis, one from one of the distributor bolts to the chassis, and one from the intake manifold to the strut tower.
cost me a grand total of like $30
my lights are a lot brighter and the car doesn't shutter as bad.
i used 4 guage wire w/ gold plated connectors.
ran one from the body of the alternator to the core support, one from the block to chassis, one from one of the distributor bolts to the chassis, and one from the intake manifold to the strut tower.
cost me a grand total of like $30
my lights are a lot brighter and the car doesn't shutter as bad.
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well my car idles like *** because of my open atmosphere 1g DSM BOV..and trying to idle 450cc injectors. but whenever my fans would cut on my lights used to dim a little bit and you could feel the idle drop slightly..well it doesn't really do that anymore.
right now my car idles like i have a cam..i kinda like it..i can't imagine how it will idle when i put a cam in.
right now my car idles like i have a cam..i kinda like it..i can't imagine how it will idle when i put a cam in.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by teletekman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Would upgrading to a higher amp alternator fix this?</TD></TR></TABLE>It sounds like the engine isn't reacting to the loads (AC or alternator) switching on & off. A higher-amp alternator will have even more mechanical drag on the engine, so maybe make it worse. First figure out why the engine can't hold idle with the less powerful alternator, before you get a bigger one.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JimBlake »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It sounds like the engine isn't reacting to the loads (AC or alternator) switching on & off. A higher-amp alternator will have even more mechanical drag on the engine, so maybe make it worse. First figure out why the engine can't hold idle with the less powerful alternator, before you get a bigger one.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Other than maybe the alternator not producing enough power to keep the engine running smooth at idle, is there anything that might come to mind as to where I might look. I would like to iron out anything I can before having to take it to the mechanic?
By the way, what is the reccomended RPM's for idle for my car? 96' Accord LX 4-cyl, 2.2L?
Thanks!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Other than maybe the alternator not producing enough power to keep the engine running smooth at idle, is there anything that might come to mind as to where I might look. I would like to iron out anything I can before having to take it to the mechanic?
By the way, what is the reccomended RPM's for idle for my car? 96' Accord LX 4-cyl, 2.2L?
Thanks!
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Jun 10, 2003 10:58 AM




