1st pass I bogged the lauch baaaad, then missed the 2-3 shift. Still ran an 11.83@124. We have an in car video of it...still not up yet.

2nd pass I blew of the IC piping at the top of first.

3rd pass I had a great launch, good shifts, but at the top of the 3rd the tranny let go. Sounded like someone threw a box of tools down the stairs. I instinctively pushed in the clutch and took it out of gear...then realizing there was no resistance or form in either of them(both gone) I knew it was the tranny. Here's some pics of the carnage.









pictures fixed.


Modified by RTErnie Motorsports at 7:22 PM 7/20/2005

 

I have seen carnage like that first hand.

I had a ITR tranny give way just like that under hard acceleration mid second gear. Every tooth from the ring gear stripped every tooth on the pinion gear and the diff flew out and broke the case. I hope your crank is ok.

 

no fly wheel shield?

 

no scatter shield...because I spent all of my time on my cage :-P Definitely going to have to make one soon tho. i'll try and see if we-todd-did will be patient with me.

 

Damm, that's crazy. I've never seen that happen before. What clutch are you using, and how hp are you putting down if you don't mind sharing???

 

so did the cluth break off from the flywheel or something? they seem to be seperate in the pics....

 

damn

 

WOW!
Thats nuts.

 

394whp 387ft lbs

The Flexplate bolts (its a modular clutch assembly...weird huh!) were torn out of the clutch and from the flexplate...flexplate was ovaled out and the threads were gone on the clutch.

CM stage 4 clutch...not sure if the clutch let go and took out the housing or if the housing broke and then took out the clutch.

 

whats even weirder...is that the gears all still work perfectly...no heat or stress makes...no chipped teeth. The gears are PERFECT. The housing is just majorly fucked.

 

 

talk about "grenading the tranny"....

 

what causes this?

 

i should find the one of my h22 tranny going boooooooom!!! looks just like that.

 

too much torque... (387ft lbs)

 

Looks like the synchros are in good shape.lol. Sorry just kidding.

 

That 2.4L motor makes A LOTof torque. Congrats on making that kind of power. Maybe you were just unlucky with that housing. I had mine cryo'd. At least those Neon 5spds are cheap. Maybe you should run a non-modular clutch. The flexplate probably contributed to the demise of that trans.

 

so how much does a new trans run??

 

Damn that's some serious damage! LoL...

At least it wasn't the engine that gave way.

 

holy **** man, i've tore up alot of **** and can honestly say I've never seen anything like that!!!!!

 

NativeSon.... who are you? Naperville? Sgt Craig? Len Ayala?

I'm thinking of going with an auto tranny. Please call me at 541 980 6022 ...anytime I need to know how you guys are keeping your trans together.

Let me know...the CM 4 is toast.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JL &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so how much does a new trans run??</TD></TR></TABLE>

'Bout $300 for a used Neon trans from the J-yard.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RTErnie Motorsports &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">NativeSon.... who are you? Naperville? Sgt Craig? Len Ayala?
I'm thinking of going with an auto tranny. Please call me at 541 980 6022 ...anytime I need to know how you guys are keeping your trans together. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm NativeSon! Sorry, no phone calls.
If you are considering an auto trans vs. a 5spd, I wouldn't suggest it.
If you build the auto to handle the power, It will NOT be highway driveable any longer. In fact, the car will no longer be any fun to drive anywhere. It won't be any faster either. The auto with a high stall torque converter will eat up a lot of power. It'll also be expensive to build an auto trans, and there is no guarantee that it'll last any longer. If you want to make your trans last a little longer next time, use stiff motor mounts, and if you use a solid rear mount, (like the A/FX bobble strut) make sure there is no pre-load on any of the motor mounts.
The engine and trans should rest naturally when the mounts are fastened down.
Also, adding the scattershield acts like a girdle, and adds a little extra strength.
Send the entire trans out to get cryo treated. It eliminates the stresses in the metal.

 

I run deyeme firm mounts...near solid, and I dont run a bobble strut because my 3.5" downpipe gets in the way. I get ZERO wheel hop. I was considering welding the case to reinforce it, but I hear that you need to have it remachined at the block surface.

who do you have do your cryo work? and how much does it cost.

NativeSon it is. Are you running a 3.55 or a 3.94? I ran a 3.55 before and it was near perfect for trapping at the top of 4th...now that I have the 3.94 I'm worried that I will have to shift into 5th...no dice. I also can raise the limiter up to whatever I want, but the pistons speeds at 8k + are no dice as well. running 25x9x13 slicks btw.

And how much power are you putting thru yours...

I'm in a crossroad right now... and I really need to talk to someone who has done it...done it right and knows what will work. My goals are to make more power and run faster times....call me ambitious...but i want to run 9's. The auto is consistent...with the auto I can built boost off the line with out launch control....with the auto I wont slip(as much) I can hold boost between gears....the list goes on.

Do you have Len's number so I can call him and talk to him? I need to find out everything that I CAN do to get this to work...my CM clutch is TOAST.

 

bah...I did some clicking and reading.

 

Holy ****!!! lol