blew up my stock b20/vtec in my daily driver so its getting some internals now...:

plan is ~11:5:1 84.5mm pistons, not sure if im gonna use the stock rods with arps or go eagles (any input?). head is a stock port b16 and i'll be using Omni valvetrain and Blox HSL cams. intake manifold is a cut and ported blox manifold. Header is custom 4-1 stainless header i built with merge collector and megaphone ( 1 7/8" runners). Mainly looking for info on whether to keep the stock rods w/arp's or upgrade to some eagles. Im also alittle nervous about RPM's on the stock sleeves ...

If anyone has a any dyno's with similar setups that would be great...hoping to break 200whp

 

i would be sketchy about using stock b20 sleeves since they are so thin. Its possible to run them, your just going to need a good tune and keep the revs low. But since your goal is to just pass 200whp, why not just build a oem Ls bottom end? its not that hard to pass 200whp with a nice powerband.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by drchulo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i would be sketchy about using stock b20 sleeves since they are so thin. Its possible to run them, your just going to need a good tune and keep the revs low. But since your goal is to just pass 200whp, why not just build a oem Ls bottom end? its not that hard to pass 200whp with a nice powerband.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I dont' have an LS block....I have b20/vtec that needs a rebuild...I can't have the car down for long and don't have time to find another block.

 

Doing a similar setup, and main goal is around 200whp as well. I am not planning on revving over 8k. Go with Eagle rods and be done with it, I also think your CR is a bit high for the B20 block. How did you blow the first one?

 

Werd then go with the eagle rods then...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RudeBwaiSi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Doing a similar setup, and main goal is around 200whp as well. I am not planning on revving over 8k. Go with Eagle rods and be done with it, I also think your CR is a bit high for the B20 block. How did you blow the first one?</TD></TR></TABLE>

spun a bearing....I only put a few hundered easy miles on it....but if its life before me was anything else like the rest of the car im suprised it lasted this long

 

What are your plans for the motor? If this is a daily driver/ occasional drag race I would not worry about the sleeves.

If you are going to road race the car then I would worry about the sleeves.

Anyway, the rpm range of the motor with those cams would warrant ARP rod bolts but not Eagles. No need for the extra strength of that rod at only 200whp. The rod bolts are most necessary however.

Bad tuning or lack of tuning is what cracks these sleeves. If it is tuned perfect your odds of survival will be much better. Problem is most people don't dyno tune and then bitch about their cracked B20 sleeves. They are more prone to cracking but they are not egg shells.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by asubennett &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What are your plans for the motor? If this is a daily driver/ occasional drag race I would not worry about the sleeves.

If you are going to road race the car then I would worry about the sleeves.

Anyway, the rpm range of the motor with those cams would warrant ARP rod bolts but not Eagles. No need for the extra strength of that rod at only 200whp. The rod bolts are most necessary however.

Bad tuning or lack of tuning is what cracks these sleeves. If it is tuned perfect your odds of survival will be much better. Problem is most people don't dyno tune and then bitch about their cracked B20 sleeves. They are more prone to cracking but they are not egg shells.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Its my daily driver...just want something fun for the commute and to drive around in...Might bring it to the track to see what it can do but not on the regular (thats what the built turbo car is for )

The tuning shouldn't be a problem...Ive had no problems with the last 3-4 turbo cars ive tuned with hondata/crome ( I really think the reason it spun a bearing was lack of oil before i got the car and it was well on its way out when i took ownership)...we also have an in house dyno.. I do agree with you BIG time on lack of tuning though....i had a stock b16 (with 2 headgaskets stacked) last for over a year @ ~375whp....safe conservative tune will do wonders

 

What type of dyno do you folks have. I have been wanting to run my car on some different dynos in the area to see how they read? What do you all charge for a baseline?

Not to hijack your thread......... Your motor should make a fun daily driver.

 

Eagle rods would be my pick along with cp pistons.
Plenty of stock sleeved b20 vtec setups have made 200-220 and lived a long time.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mtber &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Eagle rods would be my pick along with cp pistons.
Plenty of stock sleeved b20 vtec setups have made 200-220 and lived a long time.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

's to that!

 

11.5:1 is what I have... I got stock B20z sleeves.. with eagle rods and weisco 84.5mm pistons... using an inlinePro b20vtec head gasket with arp head bolts.. stock B16a head and GSR tranny in my '00 EK...

no problem what so ever.. the highest I was able to rev my car up to was 8k rpm due to a GSR ecu.. the rev limiter kicks in.. I drive my car hard daily.. added at least 60k miles on the motor already... sorry no dyno as of yet.. one day I will have one...