A knock from ????
Alright, first let me state I am posting this due to I am deaf and can only go by feel. So flamers please restrain yourselves. Thanks
Now here are the car stats:
1991 Honda Accord EX
Motor:
F22A6 (from 92 accord EX)
F22A4 intake
F22A4 trany
Much drive work has been done already like:
Clutch
Timing
axels
valve cover
exhause
Here is the Question:
there is a knock w/ vibration at these points
Nutral 2000 RPM to 2500 RPM the knock is there with or with out the clutch engaged
1st gear 1500 RPM w/ gas at no ped. it goes away
2nd gear 2000 RPM w/ gas at no ped. it goes away
3rd gear 2000 RMP w/ gas at no ped. goes away
4th gear 1500 RPM w/ gas at no ped some what there
5th gear 2000 RPM w/ gas at no ped goes away at 1500 RPM
in any gear it is supper strong at 3000 RPM can feel it in the peds and in the stearing wheel. When tried to feel the location under the hood its just too strong to tell as I can feel it threw out the motor and trany.
These are my thoughts as to what it could be:
Throw out bearing
cam bearings
rod and/or main bearings
thrust washers
worst cause hole in piston (but have not felt any change in performance)
And suggestions would be great as a vibration has started in 4th and 5th gears from 1500 RPM to when I back off ped.
Now here are the car stats:
1991 Honda Accord EX
Motor:
F22A6 (from 92 accord EX)
F22A4 intake
F22A4 trany
Much drive work has been done already like:
Clutch
Timing
axels
valve cover
exhause
Here is the Question:
there is a knock w/ vibration at these points
Nutral 2000 RPM to 2500 RPM the knock is there with or with out the clutch engaged
1st gear 1500 RPM w/ gas at no ped. it goes away
2nd gear 2000 RPM w/ gas at no ped. it goes away
3rd gear 2000 RMP w/ gas at no ped. goes away
4th gear 1500 RPM w/ gas at no ped some what there
5th gear 2000 RPM w/ gas at no ped goes away at 1500 RPM
in any gear it is supper strong at 3000 RPM can feel it in the peds and in the stearing wheel. When tried to feel the location under the hood its just too strong to tell as I can feel it threw out the motor and trany.
These are my thoughts as to what it could be:
Throw out bearing
cam bearings
rod and/or main bearings
thrust washers
worst cause hole in piston (but have not felt any change in performance)
And suggestions would be great as a vibration has started in 4th and 5th gears from 1500 RPM to when I back off ped.
It would be nice if some one could give me a clue here. If not then guess I will have to try a hearing mechanic (not like there are many around here that wont screw you over). And the stealership is too far of a drive for me to run it there for a set of ears.
I know you can't hear but my dad taught me a trick where you take a long screwdriver and place it on the block and stick your ear up to it and you can hear the vibration or knock, just wondering if maybe you could do it and "hear" the vibration yourself
maybe localize the problem. another thought of mine (not knowing the real deal of this motor without seeing it is that maybe the timing is off and valve are hitting the piston as a result. just thought i'd throw it out there. but that would be very noticable. valves could be chattering(loose). does it run good at idle? what are some more symptoms? oh, P.S. if you try the screwdriver trick dont try and arc it off the battery or starter or something, it might be a shocking experience.
maybe localize the problem. another thought of mine (not knowing the real deal of this motor without seeing it is that maybe the timing is off and valve are hitting the piston as a result. just thought i'd throw it out there. but that would be very noticable. valves could be chattering(loose). does it run good at idle? what are some more symptoms? oh, P.S. if you try the screwdriver trick dont try and arc it off the battery or starter or something, it might be a shocking experience.
motor mounts are all good. I checked those first.
Oil and all other fluids are fine. Manual trany 10W-30 per honda states it takes.
doubt it would be timing as I redid all the timing with belts and bearings new less then 6mths ago. Did it all to Helm's specs.
Before I drop in a motor I replace or fix all the known issues before I drop the motor in. I have done searches all over the place for this issue and have not found a solid lead.
Yea the screw driver trick would work if I could do it, but I cannot. And yea sparks or pullies dont feel to good. Learned that when I was younger
I tried to localize the knock the best I could, but so far no luck. It just is too strong and resonates threw out the whole thing. Makes it way way too hard.
That is why I put some much info on the issue to see if I could get some guidance to the possible issue.
(edit incert) one thing I did forget is that from time to time, no constant the idel will drop below 400 RPM and the oil light shows then due to the idel is so low it wont function right. Then the IAC kicks up and returns the idel to the right RPM
I did test the IAC and it is fine. Even changed it just to make sure and no difference.
Thanks
Oil and all other fluids are fine. Manual trany 10W-30 per honda states it takes.
doubt it would be timing as I redid all the timing with belts and bearings new less then 6mths ago. Did it all to Helm's specs.
Before I drop in a motor I replace or fix all the known issues before I drop the motor in. I have done searches all over the place for this issue and have not found a solid lead.
Yea the screw driver trick would work if I could do it, but I cannot. And yea sparks or pullies dont feel to good. Learned that when I was younger

I tried to localize the knock the best I could, but so far no luck. It just is too strong and resonates threw out the whole thing. Makes it way way too hard.
That is why I put some much info on the issue to see if I could get some guidance to the possible issue.
(edit incert) one thing I did forget is that from time to time, no constant the idel will drop below 400 RPM and the oil light shows then due to the idel is so low it wont function right. Then the IAC kicks up and returns the idel to the right RPM
I did test the IAC and it is fine. Even changed it just to make sure and no difference.
Thanks
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Well just got back from a hearing mechanic.
What it turns out to be is spun bearing.
So now I get to replace the crank and bearings.
Guess now I will just toss in a spare motor and rebuild this one.
What it turns out to be is spun bearing.
So now I get to replace the crank and bearings.
Guess now I will just toss in a spare motor and rebuild this one.
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