Hey guys, I've been away for a while but am now in need of some help. I was driving down I-35 in Oklahoma when another R pulled up next to me. We took off, I took 3rd to redline and then at around 6500 rpm in 4th, the engine blew a hole the size of a fist in the block and shortly died after that. Acura says I need a full long block costing $7,700. I'm not that smart when it comes to engines so I don't know what caused the hole (rod, piston??). All the internals are factory, the only additions are a AEM CAI, and JDM headers and the engine has 57k miles. My mistake was not paying attention to the flashing oil light that came on shortly before that. I thought that it was the automatic oil change light, not a low pressure warning. Anyway, any help on finding a new engine or what to do would be appreciated. I can't afford $7700 so I might have to salvage the car.
Thanks,
Matt

 

that's too much money, look else where for better pricing.
Don't ditch the caR because of this. drop a new block in and be happy again

 

U can get a Spoon Longblock for 5,000.......you need to look

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by InTegRa &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> My mistake was not paying attention to the flashing oil light that came on shortly before that. I thought that it was the automatic oil change light, not a low pressure warning. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Gotta pay to play.
Sorry ...

If you need another motor (which apparently you do), it might be cheaper to buy a "swap" motor from Japan.

Did you even check your oil level prior to this incident?

 

I did not check the level prior to leaving for the drive. I check it every once and a while at gas fill-ups. It happened within 200 miles of my next oil change so if I was leaking oil it must have been a slow leak, and I really don't think I was burning any.

 

You could have:
a: steched a rod bolt causing rod failure
b. dropped a valve causing piston/rod destruction

The list goes on...

 

if the head is still salvagable, you can probably get away with runnning a cheap LS/vtec setup

*puts flame suit on *

 

how did you get two headers in your engine bay

 

Where abouts in Oklahoma were you? Im the only R I know off in OKC area.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by InTegRa &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">... and I really don't think I was burning any. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Think again!

 

look i can get you a brand new short block from acura for $2300+shipping

 

That's nice!
How long does that offer last, and I suppose shipping is extra.

 

And isn't an ITR head around $1500?

 

either go with the JDM type r engine or get the spoon one form inlinefour.com

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by old_school_dohcvtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> either go with the JDM type r engine or get the spoon one form inlinefour.com</TD></TR></TABLE>

Others have listed cheaper options above.

Thanks for paying attention.

 

Man, you can get a brand new motor with only 50kms from japan for about $3500-4000US

Plus the JDM ITR motor has more HP.. like 210ish?

OR you can just get the JDM H22 (prelude motor) that has 220HP *thats what i would do anyway...* its REALLY cheap.. iv seen em go around for $2500 with everything.

Man, you were LOW on oil!! this is TOTALLY userfault!! shame on you.. but lesson learned, unfortunate accident, **** happens. move on! but take my recommendations! **** rebuildnig that one!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ITR9 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">OR you can just get the JDM H22 (prelude motor) that has 220HP *thats what i would do anyway...* its REALLY cheap.. iv seen em go around for $2500 with everything.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You do realize the modifications required to make an H-series work in a DC chassis are fairly significant, right? And that when it's over, although you have more power, you have a heavier powertrain and a crappier transmission.

 

I didnt realize that.. woops. thanks for pointing it out = ) I'm not in this dudes situation so i wouldn't really know.

GO for the JDM ITR motor dude doesnt seem like there is any sense in rebuilding it when it comes to being cost effective.. bite the bullet

 

Check out Darton, they sell blocks. Go to 2.0L

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...=WD1V

 

Does no one mention to open it up and see the conditions. Hell, do it yourself, post pics on honda-tech and see some advice. Then take it to a PRo and they will let you know. If your cylinder walls are ok and crank is ok, get eagle rods (cheap), some ITR pistons or go with something custom, and hope the head is salvagable. If not, buy a b16 or GSR head and work that way. Just because you lost your motor, doesnt mean u need to throw it away. hell, send it over here and ill take it and pay the shipping.

 

sounds like you had no oil

 

He already said there's a "fist-sized hole" in the block. While the head MIGHT be ok, seems like there's no chance for the rest of it being repairable.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM Factor &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Check out Darton, they sell blocks. Go to 2.0L</TD></TR></TABLE>

hahaha... yeah that'll be cheap

 

I'm gonna call and check tomorrow to see if the head is ok, but he said i would need a complete long block. It sounds like there's some pretty good other options besides a dealer replacement.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by K20Death &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Where abouts in Oklahoma were you? Im the only R I know off in OKC area.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I was coming from DFW airport to Norman where I go to school (Boomer Sooner). The break down occured 10 miles south of Ardmore.