Hey guys,

I was just going over a few things with my turbo CRX project. Right now the block and head is getting built by earl, and it's gonna be a monster. 1.9L sleeved, Manley rods, CP 83mm pistons, Portflow PP head, with SuperTech 0.5mm OS valves, Titanium retainers and dual valve springs. Probably gonna stuff a Quaife in my 91 LS cable tranny too, get some axles, and a cage and all the other odds and ends

But my main question was about the turbo and wanting to accomplish my goal on street tires & 91 pump gas. As light as a CRX is how easy would it be to get it into the 11's and maybe 10's on xxx amount of HP? Right now I've got some 16x7 rims, but I was thinking about getting some 16x8 or 16x9 and some Azenis or A032R's. The rims will probably stick out, but nothing a set of tack-on fender flares can fix. I figured with tires that wide and sticky it might help with my traction issues. let me know what you guys think about that. I also have some GC's and Konis with 450lbs up front and 650lbs in the back (auto-x setup).

Now for my turbo setup I have the basic Revhard kit for a B18C CRX. But I upgraded a few things. T-bolt clamps, Walbro 255lph HP, 750cc injectors, running CromePRO. The turbo is a Precision T3/T4E 0.63ar/60 trim (SC34?), but the turbine only has a 2.5" outlet, so I cant run a full 3" DP from the turbine. I know this turbo is capable of a lot, but I was thinking if it would be better to swap out the manifold for a tubular, get a GT30R, and swap out the IC for a Precision 600. The problem with swapping out the turbo stuff is it will set back my turbo project a few months. So I was wondering if my goals could be met with the Revhard log mani, RH IC, and the SC34. I think it would be a little harder, but should be doable.

so what do you guys think? is a 350-400 WHP EF able to get into the 10-11's? assuming the driver is competent.

 

all I can say is it is hard and will not be cheap. AutoX tires dont hook for **** either. Need Drag Radials or Slicks, the sidewalls on AutoX tires are way to stiff

 

yah, that's what I figured. I wanted to see if I could do it on street tires though. I wanna be able to drive the car to the track just the way it is, run it then drive home. After I get the car up and running again on the new block my first run at the track will be on street tires. This is to get sort of a baseline...I'll be buying a set of slicks to, but I still want to concentrate onbeing able to meet my goal on street tires.

 

Well the fasted FWD street tire record is only 11.01 at 139.. He has been tweaking his driving and setup for many years. You may hit high 11's if your setup is good and you can drive but its very hard to get much lower on street tires. Slicks I see many cars go low 11's some go 10's. Takes a lot of seat time... I mean ALOT. Best of luck though

 

Hmm I never knew it was that hard, oh well I'll give it my best and see how it goes. Who made that record of 11.02 @139 on FWD street tires?

 

Jim hucks, http://www.jimhucks.com

 

thanks for the link Art,

One thing I was wondering, would it be a better idea to run a smaller diameter wheel with tall sidewall street tire, or a large diameter wheel and small sidewall street tire? I guess something like 13x9 or 14x9 vs 16x9 or 17x9.

 

The smaller wheels if possible to use should allow more sidewall flex so traction will be better. As for if you run in Pro-Street class I think you can only go with an 8" wide wheel / tire. Anyone with input chime in cause im unsure

 

"street tires" as in Azenis, AO32R's, etc, not a hope in hell

"street tires" as in 225/50/15 BFG drag radials, maybe

"street tires" as in 235/60/15 MT Drag radials or 235/60/15 MT DOT Bias Ply's, sure

I pulled the time in my sig on 225/50/15 BFG's in a heavy EK on pump gas, and I just barely broke into the 12's on Azenis. Seriously though, if you don't know that a 15 will hook better than a 16, 16 better than a 17, etc, given the same compound and width you probably havn't had enough seat time to push your car to 11's on drag radials, nevermind 10's on non DR radials. Don't expect much more than upper 13's the first time you take your car out.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlueShadow &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The turbo is a Precision T3/T4E 0.63ar/60 trim (SC34?), but the turbine only has a 2.5" outlet, so I cant run a full 3" DP from the turbine.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Why not? There is a ton of pressure before that turbine wheel, so the outlet of the turbo doesn't need to match the DP diameter to yield a performance increase. That gas is going to expand after it leaves the turbo...

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> is a 350-400 WHP EF able to get into the 10-11's? assuming the driver is competent.</TD></TR></TABLE>

on street tires? hehe. Get drag radials

 

Nap-Dyn,

The reason I was asking between a small vs a large dia rim was cause it's how I used to think. Back when I had my FD I read about other high HP RWD cars using larger dia rear rims and even purposely getting heavy rims to help control the power. There is obviously a diff between my FWD car and those RWD cars, but that was the reason I asked.

I also haven't spent a lot of time looking at the different types of tires, compounds, etc etc. So I might have gotten some of the terms mixed up. By street tire I mean any tire that you can safely drive on the street without worrying about spinning out of control from hitting a wet, or dirty patch in the road.

 

Well, start un thinking IMHO the only way you're going to break into the 10's with a low enough trap speed that will let you run 91 octane is by running the 235/60/15 MT's or BFG's. Those are a 26 inch tall tire, so you'll need something other than your LS trans to use them effectively, but I just can't see you trapping enough to hit 10's on tiny little 23.5 inch tall BFG radial with pump gas.

 

get the m&h dot's. i believe cunha from here in nj was running 10's on them.

 

and get small brakes and 14 or 13" inch rims
16" will make you look like a fool

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Napoleon Dynamite &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well, start un thinking IMHO the only way you're going to break into the 10's with a low enough trap speed that will let you run 91 octane is by running the 235/60/15 MT's or BFG's. Those are a 26 inch tall tire, so you'll need something other than your LS trans to use them effectively, but I just can't see you trapping enough to hit 10's on tiny little 23.5 inch tall BFG radial with pump gas.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Before I unlearn all that stuff, has it actually been tried on a FWD car? are there noticeable gains from going from a large to small rim? I'm not really looking for a theoretical answer, but actual track results.

Regardless of what some people might say or think about 16" rims on a CRX :rollseyes: how would a large dia rim on a FWD car do? Would a combination of the LS tranny, Quaife, wider and larger dia rim, and maybe even a heavier rim (20-25lbs) give the car less wheelspin or make it more controllable? I'm curious to know what the differences would be and also how noticeable it would be.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlueShadow &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Before I unlearn all that stuff, has it actually been tried on a FWD car? are there noticeable gains from going from a large to small rim? I'm not really looking for a theoretical answer, but actual track results.</TD></TR></TABLE>

On 225/50/15 BFG's I scratch through second on the street. 205/50/15 old style Azenis will spin clear through third. The 205/40/17 BFG DR's I tried were about half way between the two, but there's no doubt the 15 inchers hooked better. It's proven with slicks, and the same thing applies with DR's.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlueShadow &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Regardless of what some people might say or think about 16" rims on a CRX :rollseyes: how would a large dia rim on a FWD car do? Would a combination of the LS tranny, Quaife, wider and larger dia rim, and maybe even a heavier rim (20-25lbs) give the car less wheelspin or make it more controllable? I'm curious to know what the differences would be and also how noticeable it would be.</TD></TR></TABLE>

It might slow your car down a bit in terms of acceleration but it isn't going to do much to remedy too much power for the tire you're running. IMHO if you want a chance of busting 10's on something that isn't a 26" tall tire nor a slick, the 215/60/14 BFG DR's are one of your only choices. 16 inch rims arn't going to get it done unless you run a 255/50/16 BFG (26" tall), which is what the much maligned Mike from MotorMatrix ran on his car, and he said traction was decent.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Napoleon Dynamite &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It might slow your car down a bit in terms of acceleration but it isn't going to do much to remedy too much power for the tire you're running. IMHO if you want a chance of busting 10's on something that isn't a 26" tall tire nor a slick, the 215/60/14 BFG DR's are one of your only choices. 16 inch rims arn't going to get it done unless you run a 255/50/16 BFG (26" tall), which is what the much maligned Mike from MotorMatrix ran on his car, and he said traction was decent.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Hmm...maybe I'll put the theory to the test when I get the car up and running again. One day at the track I'll do back to back runs with different tires. I have my stock steelies, a set of HX rims, my 16" Rota grids, and I could probably find a friend with some heavy 17's on their Teg/Civic/ox cart. When I do this I should be ok with swapping just the front tires and not the back, what do you think?

 

seems like you are trying to use bigger wheels as sort of a traction control...basically your just slowing down to keep traction (to a certain degree) there are better ways to keep traction in my opinion, such as multistage boost controllers,gear or speed based boost...sorry if i am off base here. I dont know if this helps but my 18" wheels (23lbs) that came with the car when i bought are substantially slower than with stock fat five LS wheels i doubt the stock wheels are terribly light but the small difference in weight and overall diameter made a huge difference...thus i made the choice in a 15 inch wheel ...this test was done while my car was basically stock though so i cant tell the difference in a boosted car...untill my buddy clubs with azenis show up at my door in the next few days