Gauge lights go on while downshifting, then dies.
I have a '92 CX hatch with a DOHC ZC (I think 88-91, with a JDM ecu...which is obd0 or 1, I can't remember) swapped in. Original tranny.
Last weekend while I was driving, I downshifted, so I had the clutch held in, and my gauge clusters lit up like a Christmas tree. Check engine, oil light, and battery lights. It happened 5-6 times each day like this for a few days, ONLY while downshifting w/the clutch held in...and then started just dying (mid-driving) when the lights came on.
People have told me it's the alternator. Is that the ONLY thing it can be?
And, if it's the alternator, obviously I'm looking for a non-VTEC replacement. What alternator(s) would be compatible for my engine? (I did a search and what I've found says 88-89 Civic/CRX..is that right?) I've already tried eBay and For Sale on here.
(And I'm a chick, so cut me some slack...I'm SOL on this.)
Modified by Jen '92hatch at 10:02 AM 7/18/2005
Last weekend while I was driving, I downshifted, so I had the clutch held in, and my gauge clusters lit up like a Christmas tree. Check engine, oil light, and battery lights. It happened 5-6 times each day like this for a few days, ONLY while downshifting w/the clutch held in...and then started just dying (mid-driving) when the lights came on.
People have told me it's the alternator. Is that the ONLY thing it can be?
And, if it's the alternator, obviously I'm looking for a non-VTEC replacement. What alternator(s) would be compatible for my engine? (I did a search and what I've found says 88-89 Civic/CRX..is that right?) I've already tried eBay and For Sale on here.
(And I'm a chick, so cut me some slack...I'm SOL on this.)
Modified by Jen '92hatch at 10:02 AM 7/18/2005
all those idiot lights would come on if your engine actually died when you put the clutch in, then when you downshift and let the clutch out it compression starts the motor again. i cant say for sure if it is the alternator, you need to see how much voltage is being produced at the battery when the car is warmed up and held at 3k RPM. when my alternator went south, i was reading 12.75 volts, IE the car was entirely running off the battery, no voltage was being produced. with the new alternator the voltage was just over 14 volts on a fully charged batt.
the cheapest and eaisiest way for me (since the honda dealer wanted $275 for an alternator) was to take it to a place that REBUILDS alternators. i removed my broken alternator, took it into a place nearby called "Start Mart" and they did not have a rebuild model in stock so the rebuilt mine in 30 min for $85. runs like a champ and comes with a warrenty.
the helms manual has a flow chart for testing the electrical system, it helps a ton.
the cheapest and eaisiest way for me (since the honda dealer wanted $275 for an alternator) was to take it to a place that REBUILDS alternators. i removed my broken alternator, took it into a place nearby called "Start Mart" and they did not have a rebuild model in stock so the rebuilt mine in 30 min for $85. runs like a champ and comes with a warrenty.
the helms manual has a flow chart for testing the electrical system, it helps a ton.
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