I have a 95 honda accord lx obd1 5-sp. I have been looking at the h22 for about 2 months. I dont think I have gotten enough info on it yet. First I am trying to run anywhere in the 12's so if anyone has a good setup let me know. Preferably the cheaper route but I am open to NA or forced ind. From what I have found searching im gonna need pistons, rods, & sleeves. What I am trying to find more about are the balancers (left or removed), bearings (which need changed and what brand), head gasket (heard so many different but keeps coming back to oem), head work (where is a good place near my area preferably to port and polish & internals which from looking seems only needed are arp head bolt and titanium springs). As for balancing the block; pretty much the machine work I am completely clueless so I'll take anything on that. Enough ques. yet?

Also, I am wondering about the h22 tranny now according to innovation. I am wondering which is the best way to go there. Trannys seem to be the weak point in my search so as much info on them and which or what I should do to the lsd would be greatly appreciated. Sorry for being such a nooob I just love info and the more I get the more I can pass on. Thanx for your time.

 

If you do a H22 swap, 10-12 psi should get your pretty close to the 12's if not in them. Going NA to get there you would need to strip the hell out of the car to get it lighter plus squeze every ounce of power out of the motor.

You are right in your build up rods/pistons/sleeves, but also get an oil pump (pro-drive) b/c h22 are known for shredding them if they make any bigger power (good preventative measure).

As for balancers i would just leave them in place, you aren't going to see any advantages to taking them out for what you are doing, plus it will idle rougher with them out.

Bearing honda bearings are still the best, the old saying if its not broke don't fix it!

Head gasket there are a bunch of good ones out there, i personally use cometic HP.

Head work a mild port/polish will work, any machine shop can do this, or if you know what you are doing you can do this as well. While you are getting that done have them port match headers, intake manifold as well. People tend to leave this part out but it makes a difference, why spend about a grand to have the head flow better just to have is slam against the header flange kinda defeats the purpose. I would get a good set of valve springs/retainers (ferrea, skunk2, etc) and yes arp head studs, as well as main studs for the bottom end.

Take the entire rotating assembly to the machine shop (flywheel, crank, pistons, rods) and have them balance it. You may also want to have them check the block specs to make sure you don't do all this and find out the block is **** (aline hone, check clearance on all bearings, cylinder wall out of round, piston to wall clearance, deck warpage, etc). I forgot to mention if you are making more power you want to add some clearance in the bearings and not go by honda's specs. Good rule of thumb is .001 for every inch in diameter (ie h22 rods are 1.89, so about .017-.018 clearance)

Tranny's are the weak point specially 2nd/3rd if you have alot of power. WIth what you will be making the tranny should be good, just get a decent lsd (what you can afford) and you should be ok.

I just finished my h22 build and had it engine dynoed at over 740hp @15 psi. I also have alot of **** done to it so you can expect about 350ish wheel hp at 10-12 psi which should get you to where you need to be. If you have any other questions just email or PM me. Good luck