Having trouble separating cable tranny from engine surfaces during B16A swap
I did a search and didn't find anything on this topic. I'm in the middle swapping my 2nd gen B16A into my 1992 Integra GSR. My dad and I have been trying to separate the engine from the transmission for a good portion of the day while it is on or off the engine hoist (out of the engine bay). We've repeatedly beat it with a 2 X 4 in between the transmission surface and the hammer that we've been nailing it with. I know there are dowel pins that guide the two together and all the bolts that hold the two are definately out. We've been striking it both by the flywheel area and the rear engine mount bracket area but with no luck. You can not fit a flathead screw driver in between the surfaces and nothing seems to break them loose from each other.
Has anyone else had a similar problem to this and knows how to solve it? Any help is much appreciated, as I was trying to complete the swap this weekend if at all possible.
Has anyone else had a similar problem to this and knows how to solve it? Any help is much appreciated, as I was trying to complete the swap this weekend if at all possible.
Dowel pins rusted in transit.. seen it 100 times.
Best thing to do. Spray the hell out of the dowel locations with wd-40, wait an hour.
Come back to it, try to get a prybar in the inspection plate on the bottom of the tranny, and use the flywheel to pry on. Be careful, don't pry like a banshee, but you should be able to get enough leverage to open a crack to allow you to pry on the thick aluminum on the tranny case, and pry against the block.
Good luck!
Hope this helps!
[Modified by SiR Kid, 2:49 PM 2/17/2002]
Best thing to do. Spray the hell out of the dowel locations with wd-40, wait an hour.
Come back to it, try to get a prybar in the inspection plate on the bottom of the tranny, and use the flywheel to pry on. Be careful, don't pry like a banshee, but you should be able to get enough leverage to open a crack to allow you to pry on the thick aluminum on the tranny case, and pry against the block.
Good luck!
Hope this helps!
[Modified by SiR Kid, 2:49 PM 2/17/2002]
I went back out to take a look at the motor, and here is what I have to look at:
On one side, I have a B17A mated to a YS1 tranny on an engine hoist, that I am trying to seperate. The engine stiffeners, oil pan, and flywheel plate (by the oil pan) are all removed.
On the other side I have a B16A sitting on wood blocks, where I can see the location of the dowels and mating surface, and it already has a flywheel and clutch mounted to it that I plan on using.
I can't see how I am actually going to be able to get liquid wrench to the dowel pins to soak them for an hour. We sprayed the outside mating surface, and I pointed the liquid wrench with a tube nozzel up in the flywheel area, but that doesn't seem like it will penetrate to the dowel pins. Also, I don't mind damaging the flywheel a little bit, as I don't plan on using it immediately, or POSSIBLY ever using it. However, the flywheel is essentially attached to the block, and prying in between the two doesn't do anything to help pry apart the engine and tranny. Are you recommending putting a crowbar between the flywheel and the tranny (and not the block) because I can't see how a crowbar can fit in that small crevice (and I have a thin, flat, long crow bar to use).
Any help is again much appreciated, and I thank you for the prompt response.
[Modified by mojoGSR92, 4:05 PM 2/17/2002]
On one side, I have a B17A mated to a YS1 tranny on an engine hoist, that I am trying to seperate. The engine stiffeners, oil pan, and flywheel plate (by the oil pan) are all removed.
On the other side I have a B16A sitting on wood blocks, where I can see the location of the dowels and mating surface, and it already has a flywheel and clutch mounted to it that I plan on using.
I can't see how I am actually going to be able to get liquid wrench to the dowel pins to soak them for an hour. We sprayed the outside mating surface, and I pointed the liquid wrench with a tube nozzel up in the flywheel area, but that doesn't seem like it will penetrate to the dowel pins. Also, I don't mind damaging the flywheel a little bit, as I don't plan on using it immediately, or POSSIBLY ever using it. However, the flywheel is essentially attached to the block, and prying in between the two doesn't do anything to help pry apart the engine and tranny. Are you recommending putting a crowbar between the flywheel and the tranny (and not the block) because I can't see how a crowbar can fit in that small crevice (and I have a thin, flat, long crow bar to use).
Any help is again much appreciated, and I thank you for the prompt response.
[Modified by mojoGSR92, 4:05 PM 2/17/2002]
Sorry, yeah I meant the Flywheel and the tranny case until you make a crack, then use the thick aluminum between the tranny and block to get it the rest of the way off.
Maybe start with a screwdriver, twist it to apply good pressure to pop the tranny loose a little if the surfaces you're prying on are that close.
Once you've got a crack next to the dowels, go at em with the screwdriver/crowbar.
First thing though. Make ABSOLUTELY certail all the bolts are out.
Remove the starter also. Those bolts will hold the block on.
Here's the list:
2 bolts just below the head
One facing opposite on the front of the block
Two thread into the tranny below <the ones on the brackets on the bottom>
The starter has 2 bolts.
THREE bolts SHOULD be holding the rear mount on. I think. One form the tranny side, into the block, 2 beside the diff, on the underside of the manifold that are shorter.
And of course, the inspection plate.
I THINK that's it. PLEASE double check for bolts before anything gets broken.
[Modified by SiR Kid, 3:37 PM 2/17/2002]
Maybe start with a screwdriver, twist it to apply good pressure to pop the tranny loose a little if the surfaces you're prying on are that close.
Once you've got a crack next to the dowels, go at em with the screwdriver/crowbar.
First thing though. Make ABSOLUTELY certail all the bolts are out.
Remove the starter also. Those bolts will hold the block on.
Here's the list:
2 bolts just below the head
One facing opposite on the front of the block
Two thread into the tranny below <the ones on the brackets on the bottom>
The starter has 2 bolts.
THREE bolts SHOULD be holding the rear mount on. I think. One form the tranny side, into the block, 2 beside the diff, on the underside of the manifold that are shorter.
And of course, the inspection plate.
I THINK that's it. PLEASE double check for bolts before anything gets broken.
[Modified by SiR Kid, 3:37 PM 2/17/2002]
Remove the starter also. Those bolts will hold the block on.
Thank you for the detailed response. You've saved me a headache and a whole lot of time, I hope.
Yes, I finally got it off. All of the tranny mounting bolts were out, and the dowels actually look to be in good shape. As you mentioned the one starter bolt is about 4" or so long and goes into the block. I made the mistake of thinking it only was held to the transmission case with about 1" or so long bolts, which means it would not have held the tranny to the block but I was wrong. The help was much appreciated as the Helm's doesn't always say everything.
Trending Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
djnikko
Tech / Misc
4
Sep 18, 2007 09:14 AM
nynone4
Tech / Misc
1
Mar 27, 2003 06:18 AM
b16, bay, cable, civic, engine, honda, inspection, motor, plate, separating, seperation, tranny, trans, transmission, trouble




