so im look n around for a set of cams for my motor and i did some search and i found these three cams that i might be interested in getting.

1st off, this is my setup:
97 integra
B18B Block (stock 81mm)
JDM P30 pistons
LS rods with ARP rod bolts
GSR head (overall compression ratio is about 11.8:1)
CROWER springs and retainers
SKUNK2 IM
aem cai, 4-1 header, 2.5" piping header back
Tuning with UBERDATA
exedy stg 2 clutch and RPS 9.5lb flywheel

also the motor has a ZEX 75 shot

i need to know which cams i should get. i want decent mid range and alot of high end power. i read the JUN3's primary lobes are almost like stock so it gives a good idle but not that great mid range. the Pro-1 and the BC spec IV gives both mid and top end, so i think im lean n more towards those two cams. im look n to make about 200+whp all motor from this setup and about 275whp with the shot. so which cam will be

 

S2 Pro 1 out of those options

 

pro 1's or m22xx

 

omg ur gonna squeeze with 11.8:1 compression?

 

hell yea im squeeze n with the 75 shot. gonna pull timing by like 6-7*. if i get big cams it should lower the dynamic or static (4got which one) compression ratio.

Im curently run n a full LS motor right now with stg 2 cams. (Im piece n together all my VTEC parts to do an LS/VTEC, thats why i made this thread). my compression is 11:1 and the motor is run n great with the 75 shot

 

I have Pro1's and love them so far, getting HUGE reviews too.

 

im also having a hard time choosing the cam for road racing in my JDM ITR running 13-1 comprresion... Toda c or JUN 3...

 

I have a set of Skunk2 Stage 1' with 2k miles on them for $500 if any of you need them!!!


And this should help you decied which cam you really want!!!


Toda Spec A 11.6 mm, duration - 250 @ 1mm 11.2mm, duration - 240 @ 1mm
Toda Spec B 12 mm,duration - 255 @ 1mm 12 mm, duration - 245 @ 1mm
Toda Spec C 12.5 mm,duration - 255 @ 1mm 12.5 mm, duration - 255 @ 1mm

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Jun Type 1 10.9 mm, duration - 265.3 @ 1mm 10.0 mm, duration - 268 @ 1mm
Jun Type 2 12.0 mm, duration - 266.6 @ 1mm 10.9 mm, duration - 265.3 @ 1mm
Jun Type 3 12.0 mm, duration - 265.3 @ 1mm 11.5 mm, duration - 265.3 @ 1mm

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Spoon Sports 11.53 mm, duration - 256 @ 1mm 11.13 mm, duration - 245 @ 1mm

Skunk2 stage1 11.58 mm, duration 252 @ 1mm 10.9 mm, duration 249 @ 1mm
Skunk2 stage 2 12.3 mm, duration 266 @ 1mm 11.8 mm, duration 262 @ 1mm
Skunk2 stage 3 12.8 mm, duration 273 @ 1mm 11.5 mm, duration 273 @ 1mm

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Crower 63400 10.72 mm, duration - 234 @ 1mm 9.60 mm, duration - 234 @ 1mm
Crower 63401 11.38 mm, duration - 249 @ 1mm 10.54 mm, duration - 240 @ 1mm
Crower 63401T 11.81 mm, duration - 230 @ 1mm 11.30 mm, duration - 226 @ 1mm
Crower 63402 11.84 mm, duration - 258 @ 1mm 11.84 mm, duration - 251 @ 1mm
Crower 63402A 11.84 mm, duration - 246 @ 1mm 11.81 mm, duration - 239 @ 1mm
Crower 63403 12.04 mm, duration - 267 @ 1mm 11.84 mm, duration - 257 @ 1mm

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Integra Type R 11.5 mm, duration - 240 @ 1mm 10.5 mm, duration - 235 @ 1mm
Civic Type R 11.5mm, duration - 243 @ 1mm 10.5 mm, duration - 235 @ 1mm

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Buddy Club III 11.59mm, duration 304@1mm 10.71mm, duration- 294@1mm
Buddy ClubIII+ 11.2mm, duration 296@1mm 11.5mm, duration- 290@1mm
Buddy Club IV 12.3mm, duration 306@1mm 11.8mm, duration-302@1mm
Buddy Club V 12.8mm, duration 312@1mm 11.8mm, duartion- 306@1mm


---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

EF-1 m24 cams 12.1 mm, duration - 258 @1mm 12.1 mm, duration - 258 @1mm

 

Here is another spec page:

http://www.allmotorhonda.com/t...s.htm

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boosted k20 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hell yea im squeeze n with the 75 shot. gonna pull timing by like 6-7*. if i get big cams it should lower the dynamic or static (4got which one) compression ratio.

Im curently run n a full LS motor right now with stg 2 cams. (Im piece n together all my VTEC parts to do an LS/VTEC, thats why i made this thread). my compression is 11:1 and the motor is run n great with the 75 shot</TD></TR></TABLE>

damn you have it all twisted. im sorry to burst your bubble but if your going to be on the "Naaawzz" you dont want to run cams with lots of duration. Doing so will lead to a burnt vlave or melted piston especially since your using oem parts (vlaves/pistons). If you are set on squeezing your little heart out runs some oem GSR's or ITR's max for optimal results

 

damn, i knew u wont get the most out of nitrous if u run big cams with lots of duration cuz most of the nitrous will just gets blown outta the motor but i didnt know u can damage pistons and valves with too much duration.

so what if i get like a Buddy Club III+ or crower 63402 stage 2 cams, will that be good for spray? im now reconsidering changing the shot back down to a 55 shot....... or should i still keep the 75 shot? im run n this 75 shot in my LS motor now with LS CROWER stage 2 62403 cams and it runs realllly good with the shot

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fracas &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Buddy Club III 11.59mm, duration 304@1mm 10.71mm, duration- 294@1mm
Buddy ClubIII+ 11.2mm, duration 296@1mm 11.5mm, duration- 290@1mm
Buddy Club IV 12.3mm, duration 306@1mm 11.8mm, duration-302@1mm
Buddy Club V 12.8mm, duration 312@1mm 11.8mm, duartion- 306@1mm

</TD></TR></TABLE>

These duration specs are not @1mm, it's the total from 0.

 

keep it at 75. Cause the jettin for "75" isnt really a 75 whp gain. that compression is fine with nitrous aslong as you have ur timing worked out and good fuel...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boosted k20 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">]... but i didnt know u can damage pistons and valves with too much duration.

so what if i get like a Buddy Club III+ or crower 63402 stage 2 cams, will that be good for spray? im now reconsidering changing the shot back down to a 55 shot....... or should i still keep the 75 shot? im run n this 75 shot in my LS motor now with LS CROWER stage 2 62403 cams and it runs realllly good with the shot </TD></TR></TABLE>
honestly choose one or the other, If I was going to spray I would build a 10.5:1 motor with stock GSR cams and spray a bigger direct port shot
If you wanta high compression motor,11.8:1 or more Get Buddy Club Spec IV's and tune it to its max potential all-moter

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GUILOTINE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
honestly choose one or the other, If I was going to spray I would build a 10.5:1 motor with stock GSR cams and spray a bigger direct port shot
If you wanta high compression motor,11.8:1 or more Get Buddy Club Spec IV's and tune it to its max potential all-moter</TD></TR></TABLE> Doesnt nitrous love compression so wouldnt lowering your compression also lower your power out-put?

 

Nitrous works well with high compression, people have been referring to the cam profiles in question...not the compression. Some set ups are so high that it requires it to cool things down. Loofsky's H22 back in the day was something rediculous like 16:1 and had to have it.

I would say get the Pro 1's and leave the bottle out of it. Nitrous would do better without those domes anyway. Your new build may not like the squeeze as much as the one you were running.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by moto1320 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Nitrous works well with high compression, people have been referring to the cam profiles in question...not the compression. Some set ups are so high that it requires it to cool things down. Loofsky's H22 back in the day was something rediculous like 16:1 and had to have it.

I would say get the Pro 1's and leave the bottle out of it. Nitrous would do better without those domes anyway. Your new build may not like the squeeze as much as the one you were running. </TD></TR></TABLE>

+1 vote

however ill be spraying 100shot on my 12:1 motor in the near future

 

^^^ why are the m22 so crappy?

 

Judging by his sig. I think it would be safe to say he has a grudge against Rocket, so he's maybe not the most objective source of information on this.

 

alright so u guys have convinced me. im gonna go with the skunk2 Pro 1 cams and sell my N20 kit. i'll just make a good run n all motor car and have the power available to me all the time. im guessing that 190-200whp is possible with my setup with the Pro 1 cams.
if i had forged internals i woulda kept the nitrous and got a smaller cam..... but ehhhh.
thanks again for the help

 

good choice...now get'r done

 

Buddy Club Cam Specs

 

So many made in Taiwan cams , i personally wont buy them for my engine , yes u save a little money buying them but i doubt the quality and invest more for a more relaible engine and save more for the long run

 

Not to start a flame war, but DOHCVTECCRX there is a word we use in this business called PROFESSIONALISM. YOu are not exhibiting any right now IMO. if you had a problem with ROcket, which some of us know why, then take it up with him. feel free to STATE your OPINION, but dont try and pass it off as "the last word" or "fact".

I personally used M22s on my old OEM gsr motor and made 191whp with a VAFC obd0 setup. so i guess they were garbage? oh, i did gain 23whp in the midrange, and 17whp up top over my stock GSR cams when i dropped them in. I had a OEM build GSR block with B16 pistons. they worked for me.

They seemed to work fine for Arnos 220+whp OEM bottom ITR motor (granted it was on curchs dyno, but its a 210whp motor AT LEAST)

Tbones M24Xs made great power, he even said they were some of the best cams he has run next to the Skunk2 Pro1's

I find it EXTREMELY HARD To belive that a set of cams dropped WHP from 215 to 175. but you say you TESTED cams for him, well, as we all kow, thats the POINT OF TESTING, sometimes things dont work. was this one of those cases?

There are plenty or supporters, and so fasr your the only one i see that is a negative of Rocket. if this is because of the beef you had with him over that "warranty" thread, take it up with him, instead of flaming. he told you his reasons, you disagree, leave it at that. no need to say his stuff is CRAP , or i heard he doesnt even make his cams cause my homeboy was there ans saw something goofy but i wasnt there so I THINK for some reason he doesnt make them". no factual info=no care

As much as i know is that, there was a warranty issue, rocket said no, then all of the sudden it was "I HATE ROCKET MOTORSPORTS" . so you yourself, an admitted Nut Swinger, turned 180 after a disagreement over a warranty issue? if his stuff was such garbage and you KNEW ABOUT IT and you kept selling it , but when there was a warranty issue, you about faced? something sounds fishy. i find it hard to swallow that you only piped up AFTER there was an altercation with Rocket.

This is not an attack on you, personally i could not care what you have to say or what your reasons are. Im just saying post factual information, instead of using this thread/forum to grind your personal axe for a vendetta most of us dont care about


Modified by VtecKiDD at 2:09 PM 7/26/2005

 

As i said, listen to your own words, keep this between you and rocket. It has no purpose in this thread.