how easy is that? i did the search couldn't find the answer... i'm on my second motor, this new one has about 29000 original miles on it but was at the junk yard for over 3.5 years, to make the long story short, i had a mechanik reinstall my old crank pully from an old blown motor, unto the new one, cuz it looked all rusted out from sitting too long, but for some odd reason, when it spins it sort of "wobbles" back and forth, not too much but just enough to make the motor shake, and annoy da **** out of me...in a long run it might mess up my power stiring and a/c condenser, since they're running of the same pulley...i looked at it today and it lookes like i just have to take off my driver side tire, and the plastic that covers the wheelwel, the crank pulley is right there in front of you....do i need a special tool to get it off or there is special way i need to do this, and should i just let proffesional do this?....since i'm there already, mayby i should replace it with some higher performance aftermarket piece, but i'm on the budget(going back to school) give me some input on this you guys....should i even bother with it...is it safe to leave it this way? can it hurt my motor? does the "performance" pulley going to do anything on my car?

 

http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/SP-60100.html

You're gonna need that tool listed above and some 18-inch to 24-inch long 1/2" breaker bars, a quality 19mm 1/2" drive 6-point socket, a 20 inch 1/2" extension, jackstands, and a 4-5 foot piece of heavy pipe. You may also want to hit that crank pulley bolt with some pb blaster for a few days prior to the job.

I was going to write something up, but you can find the answers here:

<U>http://www.cordclub.com/forums/</U>

If you don't have the tools, and don't care to work on your car much, by all means take it somewhere that does..I can't imagine it would be more than 1-2 hours of work for a shop.

Oh, and I WAS going to buy one of those "performance" pulleys when I did my timing belt, but the price is a bit silly for what it is...I would stay OEM, it has the rubber in it for a tiny bit of isolation between crank and accessories...or so I've heard

 

get an unorthodox racing underdrive pulley.

 

here are some pulleys i found on ebay for my car. Let me know if you think i can get away with a cheaper priced pulley, or would that be stupid? I really dont want my accesories to work improper because of too much underdrive


http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISA...&rd=1

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISA...&rd=1

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISA...&rd=1

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISA...&rd=1

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISA...photo

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by as_fast_as_u &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">here are some pulleys i found on ebay for my car. Let me know if you think i can get away with a cheaper priced pulley, or would that be stupid? I really dont want my accesories to work improper because of too much underdrive


http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISA...&rd=1

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISA...&rd=1

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISA...&rd=1

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISA...&rd=1

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISA...photo</TD></TR></TABLE>

underdriving the crank wont cause any problems, but underdriving the accessories...

 

so will the cheaper ones work just as well?

 

bump....i need to know, can cheaper pulley work just as good as 180$ unorthodox...i was looking at BOMZ


Modified by as_fast_as_u at 5:44 PM 7/18/2005

 

anyone know? i'm ready to buy as soon as i know whats up...

 

OEM pulley is $60 from san leandro honda..do a search and see what those aftermarket pulleys are accused of...some bad stuff..

I wouldn't be caught dead with that other junk on my crank

 

so is getting Tru Power underdrive pulleys for the alternator and P/S a bad idea?

 

well i've been reading up on a lot of reviews on underdrive pulleys in general even the expensive unorthodox....it seems that people dont really notice mucfh gain from it, its kind of pricey, and lights DO dim at stock idle...hence draining your battery, plus install could be 100-200$ on top of that....In my case though, the mechanic that installed my new engine did not install crank pulley the right way, so its "wobbling" back and forth. It is a stock pulley, so undedriving is not an issue, but i definitely think i need to correct this, before i break something, plus my engine is rocking back and forth,power steering has some "tight" spots(and never did before the engine install), the belts are jumping, and there are some definite parasitic drag thats being put on my crank. So just re-installing the OEM crank pulley should free up some hp IN MY case...but since i am there already i was going to replace the pulley with a performance piece.

since i've decided on not getting an UNDERDRIVE type of pulley, does anyone know where i can find just lightened alluminum crank pulley that is of a stock diameter? i heard someone makes them for 6 cyl models...have someone heard of anyone making just lightened pulley for 4cyl models?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sub-STD Hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">.do a search and see what those aftermarket pulleys are accused of...some bad stuff..

I wouldn't be caught dead with that other junk on my crank </TD></TR></TABLE>




the original poster would do well to take the advice in his own sig

"Wisdom is the reward you get for a lifetime of listening, when you'd have preferred to talk."

 

yeah....underdriving is bad.... i did research thanx for heads up...should have listened to my sig...lol