My Dyno Results. Mild built B18C.
Not exactly what I expected, but I think I'll hit the 200whp before the end of summer after I change a few things.

Mods:
JDM B18C (GSR)
Balanced bottom end
Eagle rods
Bored .20 over
11:1 CP pistons (teflon and ceramic coated)
Teflon coated bearings
Alaniz ported head, 3 angle valve job
Skunk Stage 1 cams
Skunk springs
Skunk retainers
Skunk cam gears
Skunk intake manifold
Hondata heatshield gasket
RC 310cc injectors
Walbro 255lph fuel pump
64mm throttle body
Fake J's intake
JDM DC 4-1 header
Carsound 2.5 cat
5zigen exhaust
Exedy 3 puck clutch
ACT 12lb flywheel
JDM GSR LSD tranny
Tuned with Hondata s100.
I forgot to get a print-out of the A/F ratio, but let me know what you think.
Thanks to Hybridynamics for building and tuning the motor.


Modified by Blazin Si at 2:13 PM 7/16/2005

Mods:
JDM B18C (GSR)
Balanced bottom end
Eagle rods
Bored .20 over
11:1 CP pistons (teflon and ceramic coated)
Teflon coated bearings
Alaniz ported head, 3 angle valve job
Skunk Stage 1 cams
Skunk springs
Skunk retainers
Skunk cam gears
Skunk intake manifold
Hondata heatshield gasket
RC 310cc injectors
Walbro 255lph fuel pump
64mm throttle body
Fake J's intake
JDM DC 4-1 header
Carsound 2.5 cat
5zigen exhaust
Exedy 3 puck clutch
ACT 12lb flywheel
JDM GSR LSD tranny
Tuned with Hondata s100.
I forgot to get a print-out of the A/F ratio, but let me know what you think.
Thanks to Hybridynamics for building and tuning the motor.


Modified by Blazin Si at 2:13 PM 7/16/2005
I chose these parts expecting 200-210 whp, so no... I don't think your wrong.
I say "mild built" because of the Stage 1 cams and 11:1 CR.
I say "mild built" because of the Stage 1 cams and 11:1 CR.
The header, exhaust and intake will probably be changed soon. If that doesn't make an improvement I'll buy a set of bigger cams and mill the head.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Blazin Si »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The header, exhaust and intake will probably be changed soon. If that doesn't make an improvement I'll buy a set of bigger cams and mill the head. </TD></TR></TABLE>
you could add a one layer gasket instead of milling.. But, you could also do both
you could add a one layer gasket instead of milling.. But, you could also do both
Trending Topics
intake - get the ITR cold air by AEM
header - a GOOD one, ie. SMSP, DTR, RMF, ANR
Exhaust- free flowing 2 1/2
you should see around 190-195 tuned right
get you some stage 2's and you'll break 200
header - a GOOD one, ie. SMSP, DTR, RMF, ANR
Exhaust- free flowing 2 1/2
you should see around 190-195 tuned right
get you some stage 2's and you'll break 200
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DC2_TypeR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">intake - get the ITR cold air by AEM
header - a GOOD one, ie. SMSP, DTR, RMF, ANR
Exhaust- free flowing 2 1/2
you should see around 190-195 tuned right
get you some stage 2's and you'll break 200</TD></TR></TABLE>
exactly and add a one layer head gasket and go with rocket motorsports m22s and youl probably see 210+whp
header - a GOOD one, ie. SMSP, DTR, RMF, ANR
Exhaust- free flowing 2 1/2
you should see around 190-195 tuned right
get you some stage 2's and you'll break 200</TD></TR></TABLE>
exactly and add a one layer head gasket and go with rocket motorsports m22s and youl probably see 210+whp
it's a good midrange....but replace the header....with a smsp or hytech...and if u got money left over..get a skunk 2 stage 2 cam.
i put down 197 and 131 dynojet whp/whtq on a stock block stock headcast us type R motor..just valvetrain and a mugen HG.
i put down 197 and 131 dynojet whp/whtq on a stock block stock headcast us type R motor..just valvetrain and a mugen HG.
They put a velocity stack on there and picked up 3hp in the top end. The midrange stayed the same.
I'm going to do some research and find a good header for this set-up.
I forgot to mention that I still have the power steering hooked up.
I'm going to do some research and find a good header for this set-up.
I forgot to mention that I still have the power steering hooked up.
don't get a one layer head gasket it won't last a long as a three layer making it that you will have to keep changing it and that's a pain in the ***. but get a cai intake, a better header and some bigger cams
When tuning we noticed his car pulling a bit of vacuum so when we finished his tune we tosed on a 3" short ram w/ a Prototype Racing velocity stack to see if it would help. Sure enough it did and fattened up the power 6500-8000 rpm by 3-5whp w/ no gain in peak. But this was a heat soaked run compared to the one in his graph so I am sure peak would have been a few HP more considereing it was a bit leaner too. We were having some sever heat soak w/ this car and runs were hard to keep consistant.
BTW the car has a Cat and P/S too. So there is few more HP's lost compared to some of your setups
I am confident that you would have been in the 190whp range w/ a beter exhaust w/ no cat (Most 5 Zigens neck down to 2" or so through the resonators), the V-stack, and no P/S. Maybe close to 200whp w/ a header change.
Very nice car overall. It was one of the cleanest we have had though the shop
BTW the car has a Cat and P/S too. So there is few more HP's lost compared to some of your setups
I am confident that you would have been in the 190whp range w/ a beter exhaust w/ no cat (Most 5 Zigens neck down to 2" or so through the resonators), the V-stack, and no P/S. Maybe close to 200whp w/ a header change.
Very nice car overall. It was one of the cleanest we have had though the shop
Thanks Denis, I'll probably run the car as-is for about a month or so and be back with some new parts to hit that 200whp mark.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mtber »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You spent a lot of money to make 180 whp
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I did, but it will allow me room for improvement and still keep it reliable.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mtber »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You spent a lot of money to make 180 whp
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I did, but it will allow me room for improvement and still keep it reliable.
i think those #'s are pretty straight on considering that most dyno with no catback on and no belts besides the alternator. They usually also never show the SAE corrected #'s like you did and instead show the STD uncorrected #'s which are usually higher. You might also want to keep in mind that they will also use a Dynapak and not a Dynojet which i think tends to read lower.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by siR cr-x »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">don't get a one layer head gasket it won't last a long as a three layer making it that you will have to keep changing it and that's a pain in the ***. but get a cai intake, a better header and some bigger cams</TD></TR></TABLE>
This guys a moron and probably has never tried a 1-piece head gasket. They are just as strong and reliable as a 3 piece.
But for reals get rid of the POS intake and get a AEM CAI for an ITR. I'm certain you'll gain at least 10whp from that simple swap
This guys a moron and probably has never tried a 1-piece head gasket. They are just as strong and reliable as a 3 piece.
But for reals get rid of the POS intake and get a AEM CAI for an ITR. I'm certain you'll gain at least 10whp from that simple swap
Ya, that intake may be holding you back some. I don't think the compression is your problem.
I made just over 200whp on a stock ITR block, & ITR cams, a few years back.
Have fun with what you got. Sounds like a few minor changes, and you'll be right were you want.
I made just over 200whp on a stock ITR block, & ITR cams, a few years back.
Have fun with what you got. Sounds like a few minor changes, and you'll be right were you want.
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