well i would post a pic but the guys printer broke so.... the final put put down 165.9hp and 119.6tq with my current set up. the injectors are maxed out so i will be ordering them real soon along with the fuel rail and pressure regulator. i also need cams i have the stock gsr cams right no and i cant really take advantage of my compression or rev the motor out it stops making power at around 8000rpms. so flame away and i will try to get the sheet posted asap he said his printer will be fixed by monday.

 

some cams and you are stylin.

 

i would have thought you would have a little more than that.

 

nice numbers..

btw, a fuel rail would be a waste of money, the stock honda will suffice for your setup...there is no need to run a bigger bore fuel rail...

 

The cams is what is holding you back! get some that will complement the compression you are running and you will be golden!

 

Most aftermarket fuel rails are actually same diameter inside as stock, they just look pretty. I wish I could tell you which ones aren't worth getting but look into it.

 

Who told you that your injectors were maxed out? Oh yeah stock honda fuel rail is good till 300whp.

 

the guy that tuned it. when he added more than 16% fuel it set off a cell and he said they where maxed out. So based on what you guys are telling me i just need to get injectors and presure regulator. I think im going to go with the blox's stage 2 cams. Would there be a better set of cams to go with? any help would be greatly taken thanks in advance

 

what were you tuning with? if it was a VAFC, it will throw a MAP code cause it thinks its seeing boost when you add that much fuel.

your injectors prob arent maxed. look into getting Uberdata

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hatch’d &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the guy that tuned it. when he added more than 16% fuel it set off a cell and he said they where maxed out. So based on what you guys are telling me i just need to get injectors and presure regulator. I think im going to go with the blox's stage 2 cams. Would there be a better set of cams to go with? any help would be greatly taken thanks in advance</TD></TR></TABLE>

I've seen 240's support 200+whp before... I think he is wrong or a poor tuner.

 

i dont think he the best or even that good but hes the only thing i have with in the city. he didnt do a lot he just added some fuel on the top end and charged me 100$ but i havent found any good honda tuners in the st louis mo area. when i get the cams and fuel stuff i was looking at a hondata also. i used a vafc and a chipped p28 today. does anyone know of a good tuner in my area? i figured that i was going to have to drive to chicago to get it done right i just didnt want to waste my money right now since i dont have all my parts.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by goforbroke &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Who told you that your injectors were maxed out? Oh yeah stock honda fuel rail is good till 300whp.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I wouldn't doubt it. My b16 injectors are nearly maxxed out at 162whp.

 

Your tuner has no idea what he is talking about when you tune with a VAFC and add or take away fuel you are tricking the MAP sensor and as said before it will think it's getting boost at a certain point and throw a CEL.

I'm making 186whp and 131wtrq with stock ITR injectors(240cc's same as all other b series) and mine are not maxed out. I got rid of the VAFC and final tuned it with Crome.

 

i just tuned a friends car that had a b16 with type r head tuned with s200 and his injectors were at 87% he had stock b16 pistons as well. so it is possible that with stock fuel pressure that your injectors are getting close to maxing out.

 

I just tuned a mild 11:1 compression B16, stock block built head) and with a JDM DC 4-1 header, stock FPR and rail, stock pump, it was having Injector Duty Cycle reach 106% from 7900-9700 rpms. it was making between 165-170whp all night. so i would say his is maxxed.

now in this guys case, i would take it to a reputable tuner and get a better opinion. ditch the VAFC and go with UBERDATA or CROME. Buy a B+M fpr they are like 30$ and a Gauge for $30. you should look at tuning the a/f ratio to around 13.5:1 to start with, get it flat. then go from there and see what the motor likes. That b16 i did liked it LEAN around 14.5:1, but i some motors like 13.0:1. just give it what it wants. make it rich and if it loses power go lean and see if it makes power or not.
Hop on over to PGMFI.ORG and read a little lots of good info. also check out HONDATA.COM website.

this is why you threw a CEL: taken from PGMFI.ORG
Piggy Back controllers allow stock ECUs to do things that they normally can't do, like run larger injectors or deal with boost. Remember that piggyback controllers work by altering sensor signals before they get to the ECU.

Most of the time, the primary signal being messed with is the Map Sensor. This is critically important in a Speed Density car. The Map Sensor is used by the ECU to guess how much air is going into the car, and therefore how much fuel to supply in order to match airflow. When you "lean" out a car with an AFC, you are simply decreasing the Map Sensor signal - the ECU responds to the decrease in manifold pressure by supplying less fuel. When you "richen" a car with an AFC, you are simply increasing the Map Sensor signal - the ECU responds to the increase in manifold pressure by supplying less fuel.

The change in fueling happens for a reason: if you look at a fuel table, Map Sensor values correspond with columns. When you increase or decrease the signal from the Map Sensor, you are simply making the ECU use a different column than it originally would have used. (see Understanding Maps if you need some help understanding reading Fuel and Ign tables)

But wait, isn't the Map Sensor used for determining ignition requirements too? When you "lean" out a car with a Piggy Back, you also in all likelyhood advanced timing. When you "richen" a car with a Piggy Back, you also in all likelyhood retarded timing. Look at trends horizontally (as MAP changes) in an ignition table, and you will see why this happens. This helps explain why so many boosted cars running on the "AFC hack" have issues due to excessive ignition advance.

The bottom line: Piggy Back Controllers suck because you cannot independently adjust fuel and ignition. Any changes to fueling will produce a change in ignition too, and often this is undesirable.

good luck, you have more power in there sir.

 

so do you guys know of any good tuners in the st louis mo area. i am willing to drive anywhere to get the job done right. i will be placing an order for the hondata s200 next week and also the fpr and fuel gauge. still going to hold off on cams till i get some more money. maybe next month. thank s for the advice.

 

look into UBERDATA or CROME , much cheaper than hondata, and more people can tune it.

 

my uncle is actually making 750whp(turbo'd) with a stock fuel rail.

 

is his name Peter Heu?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hybrid93Eg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I've seen 240's support 200+whp before... I think he is wrong or a poor tuner.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yea, I really dont see how the stock injectors are maxed out at 165whp.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civicgsr19 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Yea, I really dont see how the stock injectors are maxed out at 165whp.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you don't know how to tune then I could see it happening. I used to kick out 175 to the wheels on 240's with some room to grow... should be fine at those levels.

 

whare do i get crome or uberdata. whats the best i done want to cheap out or anything. i just had this stuff laying around my shop so i used it. i dont want to get anthing sub par quality.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hatch’d &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">whare do i get crome or uberdata. whats the best i done want to cheap out or anything. i just had this stuff laying around my shop so i used it. i dont want to get anthing sub par quality.</TD></TR></TABLE>

http://www.pgmfi.org

Its going to fire up a war, I am sure, but I would HIGHLY recommend Crome over Uberdata. Keep in mind, its not cheap to setup your own "tuning" setup. Figure in romulator, chip burner, cost of software, etc.. etc..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VtecKiDD &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is his name Peter Heu?</TD></TR></TABLE>

as a matter of fact...it is...hahaha...you probably know him and bee at import source performance huh?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zer0-psi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

as a matter of fact...it is...hahaha...you probably know him and bee at import source performance huh?</TD></TR></TABLE>

yes i know Bee and Peter very well. Bee laid the smack down on my dyno this past sunday, made 617whp