does this even work ??? will the b20 b head fit a b18b block ?? and if it does should i use the b18b valve train or the b20's ???or a combination of both ?? any suggestions or info would be nice so far my build up consists of

B18b1 - block
p30- pistons
arp head bolts
arp rod bolts - is it true d-series ones will fit ??
DIY pnp head
i/h/e

is there any way to make a b16 intake mani fit my b18b head ?? with out serious modifications ?? also is it worth milling the head .020" ??


what sort of estimated hp figures should i be expecting ??

 

BUMP it up..........

 

why not a vtec head?

 

lol its out of the budget plus these are pieces i just have laying around

 

I say sell that B20 chump and buy a B16 head.

 

Why a Vtec head?

Does it hurt to be different from everyone else?

Is it fun when everyone has the same ****?

I see plenty of LS/Vtec's that dont make as much power as my N/A LS and have twice as much money dumped into them!

Not hating on Vtec, LORD knows I have owned plenty of them! Just wondering why everyone hates on us?

 

hybrid any suggestion ??? for the b20b head or just stick with the b18b head ?? i just finished reading up on ur setup itsvery nice........lots of parts out of my budget like he 404's any advice or tips to help me make as much power as possible with bolt ons and DIY head work ??

 

No you should not use a B20 head, for a couple of reasons:

You currently have 9:1 compression, the B20 chamber is larger so that will drop further. The B20 bore is larger as you know and the chamber I believe is larger diameter to match that, which means there will be a shelf on top the block all around the cylinders when installed on a B18. Combustion flame will get all over that top surface and if it doesn't at least ruin the gasket it will pile up carbon deposits.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by klungemonger &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No you should not use a B20 head, for a couple of reasons:

You currently have 9:1 compression, the B20 chamber is larger so that will drop further. The B20 bore is larger as you know and the chamber I believe is larger diameter to match that, which means there will be a shelf on top the block all around the cylinders when installed on a B18. Combustion flame will get all over that top surface and if it doesn't at least ruin the gasket it will pile up carbon deposits.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, do not use a B20 head on a B18 block!

 

But...I think a great all-motor non-VTEC would be a 12:1 c/r B20 block with a P8R head and Crower 404's, posted cylinders, and an ITR tranny. Woowoo!! that would be crazy.

 

my compression is only 9:1 with even with me using the p30' ??? have u guys even looked at whats going into my build ???

 

Didn't notice about the P30's, but improving your compression doesn't change the much more significant fact that the chamber is too large and leaves a ledge for debris to collect on top the cylinder wall. There is no performance gain from using a B20 head over a B18 head anyhow.
Do you just have a B20 head available not a B18?

 

right now i have a complete b18b1 with and s80 tranny and i have a b20b head laying around....... i actually sent my head out today to be milled ".020" and the new pistons are being pressed onto my ls rods ..... once the head returns ill be porting it myself

im also thinking of cutting the flange off my b18b intake mani and welding it onto a b16 intake mani cause adapting looks like to much work and the cut and weld process looks much easier any input ???

 

Well, I wouldn't use the B20 head either way, is that the one you are having milled?
Arent' the bolt patterns just a little off on the manifolds? I thought if you reamed some out you could get it on there, but I haven't compared my LS & B16 manis yet since they are both still attached to the heads...

 

No the B16 IM is just like the ITR. The bolt pattern is a lil different, but the main difference is the attachment to run the coolant. LS's are round where the vtec heads are more of a rectangular shape. What you are doing will work to make the B16 IM fit. I find this interesting because I always wondered how a B16 IM would do on an LS. B16 IM compared to ITR IM, the B16 IM is by far the better choice IMO. If you look at dyno comparisons the B16 IM peaks HP and TQ at a lower rpm and has a better mid to high range power curve, as to where the ITR IM will yeild a higher HP number but at teh sacrifice of peaking at a later rpm and will put out less power in the mid to high range power curve. This just goes to show that peak numbers are not always better!

As far as the B20 head goes, do not use it! Period! What klungemonger said, is the perfect reason that you do not want to. Try to find an LS head they are cheap! Make sure to get ARP rod bolts(P/N 208-6001). They are only $35 and will save your ***!


Now as far as the perfect nonvtec B20 build goes, I personally would run a B20 block sleeved to 86mm with a 95mm stroker kit. The block would be decked to run longer rods to bring the rod/stroke ratio to about 1.6:1, and would have pistons that would yield a 13.0:1 static Compression Ratio. For the head it would be port n polished P8R b20 head with 1mm oversized intake valves(making that 34mm for those of you counting), and most likely Crane #20 cams since they have a lift of .502" on both Intake and exhaust cams.

Now a build like that will run you about $5K, but would be one hell of a motor. I have had this planned for awhile and may actually save my money for it. Like I said all I need is a B20 block, some machine work, and some 86mm pistons.

 

Stance - my reason for busting the idea of the B20 head is purely technical, but just FYI I do have a complete LS top end from head to throttle body I'm selling... and I'm in the Detroit area if you're in Ontario somewhere close to Windsor or Port Huron bridges I'm less than an hour from each one.

 

iactually have a compete b18b with head and this is the head ive sent out to be milled....... but im not sure how much to mill it im trying to yield the most comp. safely ....... and i have the p30's in already i had planned on milling ".020" is this sufficient or is more needed ??? and what sort of comp. numbers am i looking?? hybrid where can i locate this arp rod boltsat $35 anywhere in my area is looking for at leas $150 cdn which i find rather steep....... is this build even worth the effort ??? i do not intend on upgrading valvetrain ..... im looking at a milled head pnp head by myself stock valvetrain and b16 im with cai/h/e and a chipped ecu with a short shifter to top it all off..... will i be happy with this build ?? and if rresult in using nitrous ?? with the comp. i have which im unsure its at how much n20 could i use ?? especially with these stock rods and arp rod bolts ??

 

High compression on stock cast rods/pistons WITH N2O is not a good idea either. If you still have an LS tranny, sell that and put the nitrous money with it to get a B16 tranny, it will make you happy all the time instead of at the occasional push of a button. You should have over 11:1 C/R maybe up to 11.5...
Search forums or on Ebay for the rod bolts...are you sure it's not head studs you are finding for $150??? I got ARP rod bolts for $30 or something from another HT user and I've seen them from Ebay stores for like $45 or so.
I would really look at some Crower 403 cams or JG 303 and upgraded valvetrain with high compression like you will have. Big cams and compression love each other!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by klungemonger &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">High compression on stock cast rods/pistons WITH N2O is not a good idea either. If you still have an LS tranny, sell that and put the nitrous money with it to get a B16 tranny, it will make you happy all the time instead of at the occasional push of a button. You should have over 11:1 C/R maybe up to 11.5...
Search forums or on Ebay for the rod bolts...are you sure it's not head studs you are finding for $150??? I got ARP rod bolts for $30 or something from another HT user and I've seen them from Ebay stores for like $45 or so.
I would really look at some Crower 403 cams or JG 303 and upgraded valvetrain with high compression like you will have. Big cams and compression love each other! </TD></TR></TABLE>

I agree go with a B16 tranny and getthe N2O later. ARP rod bolt shouldnt be that expensive. Check ebay or call Lightning Motorsports. THey have them for $35. The part number is 208-6001. Also if youplan to spray go with the Crower 403's

 

i have a b20b head on my b18b block..
long story short- my timing belt snapped so i had to take the head off to check for valve damaged, turns out NOTHING was damage from the looks of it anyway(will have to tear it apart). Instead of putting it back i knew someone with a b20b selling for cheap, 40 bux. I bought that and slapped that on the block while im planning to rebuild the b18b head. No performance gain from this, it feels exactly the same. To answer you question, yes the b20b head will fit on ur b18b block.

One of my friend told me its a bad idea unless i go boost since it it has a larger chamber which will lower my compression due to the 2.0L of the b20 engine. i still have not met anyone with this setup so donno what the good and bad is.

 

id just like to point out that i really appreciate everyones responses im getting alot of good information here......... soooo illscrap the n20 idea it turns out my tranny is labelled "s80" which could either be a gsr trans or an ls tran ??? how can i tell the 2 apart ?? with out opening it up if thats even possible ? id really love the valvetrain and at one point i was looking a 404's but this is not possible is there any other cheap alternative ???

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by The Stance &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">id just like to point out that i really appreciate everyones responses im getting alot of good information here......... soooo illscrap the n20 idea it turns out my tranny is labelled "s80" which could either be a gsr trans or an ls tran ??? how can i tell the 2 apart ?? with out opening it up if thats even possible ? id really love the valvetrain and at one point i was looking a 404's but this is not possible is there any other cheap alternative ???</TD></TR></TABLE>

What do you mean 404's and valvetrain arent possible?

Crower 404's = $350
Crower Valvesprings = $185

 

yeah thats $674.1 canadian money which i dont have and i havent been able ot find the 404's for $350 even on e-bay.....kinda hard to build a motor like that when u have no job....anyways lets say it was possible for me to attain these pieces how beneficial would they be to my setup ?? and providing i can find a decent tuner here in ontario what sort of whp.. am i looking at with this motor build up ??


ps. its going into a gutted EG hatch

 

well look at me I run 404's and B16 pistons and I put down 170whp tuned!

 

do u have any head work interms of Pnp ??? and how much did u mill ur head ??