Camber kits? Confuse me Help
OK heres the deal.
I just purchased Koni Yellow sports + ground controls with custom spring rates for my '96 Integra LS.
I'm riding on 15" with 195/50/15, and I'm probably going to lower more then 1.5" all around, so I'm going to need a front camber kit, not sure about the back, reason why I'm asking.
Now, whats the difference with this 'type' of front camber kit, SKunk2

And Ingalls different looking type Front camber kit.

I certainly want to avoid camber wear on my tires.
I just purchased Koni Yellow sports + ground controls with custom spring rates for my '96 Integra LS.
I'm riding on 15" with 195/50/15, and I'm probably going to lower more then 1.5" all around, so I'm going to need a front camber kit, not sure about the back, reason why I'm asking.
Now, whats the difference with this 'type' of front camber kit, SKunk2
And Ingalls different looking type Front camber kit.
I certainly want to avoid camber wear on my tires.
i like the skunk2 entire upper control arm kit, thats what im using. it uses the sliding ball joints, which i think is better adjustment, i think you can go +/- 4 with that kit, where the other type, theres not as much adjustment. this was my understanding btw the 2 anyways.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Asselin »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I certainly want to avoid camber wear on my tires.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well you don't need a camber kit for that... Camber wear takes many many miles to be noticed if it ever is. For most honda's spec is + .5 to -1.5, I personally ran -2.0 all around for 35000 miles and when my tires were done the outside was at the wear bars and the insides were just bald.
Toe is what wears tires very quickly, if you get and alingment and you should be ok, if your camber is out of spec and you want to get it back in spec then by all means get a kit, but most of these kits are really for racers who will adjust camber depending on the track condidtions and such, not jsut for camber correction. Some people have had the skunks 2 type camber kits punch through the shock tower for some reason.
I certainly want to avoid camber wear on my tires.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well you don't need a camber kit for that... Camber wear takes many many miles to be noticed if it ever is. For most honda's spec is + .5 to -1.5, I personally ran -2.0 all around for 35000 miles and when my tires were done the outside was at the wear bars and the insides were just bald.
Toe is what wears tires very quickly, if you get and alingment and you should be ok, if your camber is out of spec and you want to get it back in spec then by all means get a kit, but most of these kits are really for racers who will adjust camber depending on the track condidtions and such, not jsut for camber correction. Some people have had the skunks 2 type camber kits punch through the shock tower for some reason.
OK thanks Solracer.
But, when my car will be lowered, won't I have neg. camber, cause if im lowering 2", it'll have neg. camber, so I'd rather throw all the new junk in now, while I'm doing the coilovers and shocks.
So, will the second kit I mentioned do the trick for me, cause i'd rather buy the less expensive one.
?
But, when my car will be lowered, won't I have neg. camber, cause if im lowering 2", it'll have neg. camber, so I'd rather throw all the new junk in now, while I'm doing the coilovers and shocks.
So, will the second kit I mentioned do the trick for me, cause i'd rather buy the less expensive one.
?
get the skunk 2 camber arms.
i just finished replacing my 2 year old ingalls camber kits because the rubber bushing inside wore out and was making one hell of a front end noise.
i just finished replacing my 2 year old ingalls camber kits because the rubber bushing inside wore out and was making one hell of a front end noise.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Asselin »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">OK thanks Solracer.
But, when my car will be lowered, won't I have neg. camber, cause if im lowering 2", it'll have neg. camber, so I'd rather throw all the new junk in now, while I'm doing the coilovers and shocks.
So, will the second kit I mentioned do the trick for me, cause i'd rather buy the less expensive one.
?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Didn't you read what he posted? Yes, when you lower your car it will have negative camber. However, your tires arent going to wear from it. They will toe in and thats what will kill your tires. If you get your car aligned after you lower it, you won't have this problem, and an alignment is certainly cheaper than a camber kit. I guess if it really really bothers you that you are going to have negative camber, then by all means buy one of those kits.
But, when my car will be lowered, won't I have neg. camber, cause if im lowering 2", it'll have neg. camber, so I'd rather throw all the new junk in now, while I'm doing the coilovers and shocks.
So, will the second kit I mentioned do the trick for me, cause i'd rather buy the less expensive one.
?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Didn't you read what he posted? Yes, when you lower your car it will have negative camber. However, your tires arent going to wear from it. They will toe in and thats what will kill your tires. If you get your car aligned after you lower it, you won't have this problem, and an alignment is certainly cheaper than a camber kit. I guess if it really really bothers you that you are going to have negative camber, then by all means buy one of those kits.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by green00EX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Didn't you read what he posted? Yes, when you lower your car it will have negative camber. However, your tires arent going to wear from it. They will toe in and thats what will kill your tires. If you get your car aligned after you lower it, you won't have this problem, and an alignment is certainly cheaper than a camber kit. I guess if it really really bothers you that you are going to have negative camber, then by all means buy one of those kits. </TD></TR></TABLE>
OK I think I'm understanding. lol
So, I can lower my car, get an alignment, it'll still have negative camber, and my tires won't UNEVENLY wear front or back? With no camber kit.
?
Didn't you read what he posted? Yes, when you lower your car it will have negative camber. However, your tires arent going to wear from it. They will toe in and thats what will kill your tires. If you get your car aligned after you lower it, you won't have this problem, and an alignment is certainly cheaper than a camber kit. I guess if it really really bothers you that you are going to have negative camber, then by all means buy one of those kits. </TD></TR></TABLE>
OK I think I'm understanding. lol
So, I can lower my car, get an alignment, it'll still have negative camber, and my tires won't UNEVENLY wear front or back? With no camber kit.
?
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Asselin »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
OK I think I'm understanding. lol
So, I can lower my car, get an alignment, it'll still have negative camber, and my tires won't UNEVENLY wear front or back? With no camber kit.
?</TD></TR></TABLE>
You are correct. I'm lowered 3" with no camber kit, and had my first set of 205/40/16s last about 40k miles (340 treadwear). And that was with tons of freeway driving too (straight line). Just make sure you rotate them every so often.
One major thing that everybody overlooks when lowering their honda is "reseting" all of their suspension bushings. The Honda suspension requires that you properly load the suspension before tightening any bolts down, so the there is no "twist" on any of the bushings when the car is at rest on the ground. Well if you lower your ride height, all your bushings are twisted when the car is at rest. You should loosen all the bolts, apply proper load on the suspension, and then re-toruqe everything. This will ensure long bushing life...
OK I think I'm understanding. lol
So, I can lower my car, get an alignment, it'll still have negative camber, and my tires won't UNEVENLY wear front or back? With no camber kit.
?</TD></TR></TABLE>
You are correct. I'm lowered 3" with no camber kit, and had my first set of 205/40/16s last about 40k miles (340 treadwear). And that was with tons of freeway driving too (straight line). Just make sure you rotate them every so often.
One major thing that everybody overlooks when lowering their honda is "reseting" all of their suspension bushings. The Honda suspension requires that you properly load the suspension before tightening any bolts down, so the there is no "twist" on any of the bushings when the car is at rest on the ground. Well if you lower your ride height, all your bushings are twisted when the car is at rest. You should loosen all the bolts, apply proper load on the suspension, and then re-toruqe everything. This will ensure long bushing life...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94eg! »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
You are correct. I'm lowered 3" with no camber kit, and had my first set of 205/40/16s last about 40k miles (340 treadwear). And that was with tons of freeway driving too (straight line). Just make sure you rotate them every so often.
One major thing that everybody overlooks when lowering their honda is "reseting" all of their suspension bushings. The Honda suspension requires that you properly load the suspension before tightening any bolts down, so the there is no "twist" on any of the bushings when the car is at rest on the ground. Well if you lower your ride height, all your bushings are twisted when the car is at rest. You should loosen all the bolts, apply proper load on the suspension, and then re-toruqe everything. This will ensure long bushing life...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Very good description
You are correct. I'm lowered 3" with no camber kit, and had my first set of 205/40/16s last about 40k miles (340 treadwear). And that was with tons of freeway driving too (straight line). Just make sure you rotate them every so often.
One major thing that everybody overlooks when lowering their honda is "reseting" all of their suspension bushings. The Honda suspension requires that you properly load the suspension before tightening any bolts down, so the there is no "twist" on any of the bushings when the car is at rest on the ground. Well if you lower your ride height, all your bushings are twisted when the car is at rest. You should loosen all the bolts, apply proper load on the suspension, and then re-toruqe everything. This will ensure long bushing life...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Very good description
this is an off the wall question, but which way does the ingalls kit screw in??
I bought my car that already had aftermarket upgrades and crap and it has a camber kit somewhat like that bit its all squeaking and rattling and bolts keep braking, and it may just be mounted upside down...
Anyway, Im about to order a new suspension setup, but am just wondering why my car has this problem
I bought my car that already had aftermarket upgrades and crap and it has a camber kit somewhat like that bit its all squeaking and rattling and bolts keep braking, and it may just be mounted upside down...
Anyway, Im about to order a new suspension setup, but am just wondering why my car has this problem
I got the same answer when I went to the alignment shop. I have my car lowered a bit, but nothing serious, and they say they cannot fix toe in front or back due to the lowering, even with the toe adjustment provided from the factory.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Noob4life »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I got the same answer when I went to the alignment shop. I have my car lowered a bit, but nothing serious, and they say they cannot fix toe in front or back due to the lowering, even with the toe adjustment provided from the factory.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i keep hearing ppl say shops telling them they cant align the car when its lowered. that in itself is either BS or misinterpreted. the only thing stopping the alignment of a lowered car is getting it on the rack.
i keep hearing ppl say shops telling them they cant align the car when its lowered. that in itself is either BS or misinterpreted. the only thing stopping the alignment of a lowered car is getting it on the rack.
i personnally own the ingalls and they work fine, just a pain in the *** to adjust because of where they sit. better off with the skunk2, its easier for adjustments.
why get rid of the little bit of camber youll get by lowering the car 1.5 inches???? camber is great for handling.. just rotate and flop your tires regularly
no camber kits
by the way, im on 15's as well and run a 205/50 tire


yayO!
no camber kits
by the way, im on 15's as well and run a 205/50 tire

yayO!
i just lowered my eg with the second camber kit. the alignment shop had no problem with the toe, camber, caster. the kit went on fine and has not gave me a prob yet. i put coilovers on it, all the way down in the front and the camber is only off like .2, that is b/c of bumps. so when i hit a bump my tire dont hit the fender.
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JeremyL
Road Racing / Autocross & Time Attack
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Apr 12, 2003 05:25 PM






